When building exterior wall framing for additions, sheds, playhouses, or tiny houses, it is crucial to check local laws regarding building permits. The permit process is usually simple, and the choice of plywood for exterior walls involves considering climate, budget, application specifics, and maintenance needs. Oriented Strand Board (OSB) is a popular choice for exterior walls due to its strength and durability. It is composed of several layers of wood veneers bonded together with waterproof adhesive, offering exceptional strength and resistance against warping, cracking, and moisture.
Installing structural sheathing (plywood/OSB) in exterior walls ensures the building will resist design wind pressures. This guide provides an overview of wood structural sheathing in exterior walls, including oriented-strand board, plywood, structural fiberboard, diagonal tongue and groove, and foam board. Plywood sheathing is a popular choice for exterior walls due to its strength and durability, and is more expensive than OSB but less prone to water damage and moisture rot.
Sheathing plywood has drawbacks, such as mold getting under the surface and discoloration. To prevent mold and discoloration, it is essential to sand Marine Plywood before using it in water or outside environments. Exterior plywood cladding offers high damage resistance against cyclonic winds and earthquakes, and has a high surface dimensional density.
For outdoor projects, it is recommended to use Marine grade plywood, which is rated for exterior use and can withstand the weather. Understanding the characteristics of different types of plywood is essential for selecting the right option for your project.
📹 A lesson about Wall Sheathing in Residential Construction – TEACH Construction Trades Training
This lesson video covers the basics of sheathing in residential wall framing construction as part of our framing series. Learn about …
Is plywood ok outside if painted?
Plywood should be used for exterior use as standard plywood is not suitable for this purpose and paint may not adequately protect it from moisture. Choose better exterior woods like MDO (medium density overlay) for plywood, such as Cedar, redwood, cypress, or white oak, which have a smooth surface and better paint-holding properties. Plywood can make panels and sides go faster without having to mill everything and build up the sides one at a time. Additionally, using plywood can help avoid seams and reduce the time needed to finish the stand. Overall, choosing the right exterior woods can enhance the overall project’s finish.
Can you use plywood as exterior cladding?
Plywood cladding offers numerous benefits, including protection from elements and enhancing the unique appearance of a building. Its natural beauty attracts attention, as demonstrated by a 2015 study by Planet Ark, which found that 96 out of 96 respondents agreed that wood is visually appealing and has a natural look and feel. This natural appeal has been shown to positively impact the well-being and productivity of office workers.
Is plywood waterproof if painted?
Lacquer and varnish are excellent sealants for waterproofing wood sheets for both indoor and outdoor use. They can be applied using a brush, roller, or spray, and can enhance the natural veneer grain. These sealants provide water and UV protection, but may turn yellow over time. It’s essential to choose a lacquer or varnish that matches the plywood veneer for optimal results. Wood oils, which penetrate and soak into the surface veneer, can be used indoors for a natural look. Apply 2-3 coats of oil, as the plywood will absorb the first coat.
How do you waterproof exterior plywood walls?
Water-based paint represents a durable solution for the sealing and waterproofing of plywood, offering an aesthetically pleasing color. The product is suitable for both indoor and outdoor use, and is ideal for sheds and landscaping work, requiring occasional sanding and touch-ups over time.
Can plywood be used externally?
Exterior plywood is a durable and weather-resistant material that is suitable for use in a variety of outdoor applications, including furniture, sheds, and roofing. Its strength and stability, even in wet conditions, make it an ideal choice for these applications. The versatility and ease of use of this material make it an ideal choice for a variety of projects, as it can be cut and shaped to fit any project and comes in a range of thicknesses and sizes to meet different needs.
Can plywood be used for exterior walls?
A fully sheathed wall of plywood or OSB, connected to the foundation and roof, acts as a strong barrier against hurricanes, tornadoes, and high wind events. Shear walls are designed to resist wind loads, which are the most common loads. Proper anchorage or connection prevents the shear walls and the rest of the structure from laterally racking, displacing, or overturning during high-wind or seismic events. New construction and retrofit opportunities offer opportunities to upgrade exterior structural sheathing to meet building codes and standards.
The International Residential Code (IRC) requires exterior building components and their attachments to resist design wind-pressures. For high-wind regions, the IRC requires wind design in accordance with other methods, such as the International Building Code (IBC). Homes in coastal high-wind areas, including Hurricane-Prone Regions, generally require enhanced attachment to withstand greater wind speeds than the rest of the country.
How long will plywood last outside?
Pressure treated plywood can last 20-30 years or more in outdoor applications, depending on factors like treatment quality, environmental conditions, and maintenance. It can withstand rain and other elements without significant damage due to its resistance to moisture, rot, and decay. However, prolonged exposure to standing water or constant moisture can lead to deterioration over time. Proper drainage and ventilation are essential to prevent water from pooling on or around the plywood. Regular maintenance, such as applying a water-repellent sealant, can also prolong its lifespan. Marine grade plywood is also waterproof, but its lifespan depends on proper drainage and ventilation.
Is exterior plywood waterproof?
Exterior plywood is designed to resist moisture and weather elements but is not fully waterproof like marine plywood. Marine plywood can endure constant water exposure without warping or delaminating, making it suitable for prolonged water contact situations. To waterproof outdoor plywood, lightly sand the surface, choose a waterproofing product like epoxy, waterproof paint, oil, varnish, latex, or PVA, apply the waterproofing layer using a brush, roller, or spray, let it dry, and apply 2-3 additional coats for better protection. This process ensures the plywood remains resistant to moisture and weather elements.
How do you make plywood last longer outside?
Lacquer and varnish are excellent sealants for waterproofing wood sheets for both indoor and outdoor use. They can be applied using a brush, roller, or spray, and can enhance the natural veneer grain. These sealants provide water and UV protection, but may turn yellow over time. It’s essential to choose a lacquer or varnish that matches the plywood veneer for optimal results. Wood oils, which penetrate and soak into the surface veneer, can be used indoors for a natural look. Apply 2-3 coats of oil, as the plywood will absorb the first coat.
How do you keep plywood from rotting outside?
Epoxy sealant is a popular choice for outdoor projects due to its one-layer waterproof protection. Plywood, a cheaper and more durable material, is made by gluing and compressing veneer layers in opposite directions. Although not fully waterproof, it can be produced to extend the life of furniture. Plywood is used in high-moisture areas like bathrooms, kitchens, and outdoors, making it a visually appealing choice for furniture. However, it is essential to seal plywood to prevent water damage and ensure its longevity.
Will plywood rot outside?
Untreated plywood is vulnerable to moisture and water rot, leading to fungus or mold growth, affecting its integrity and potentially breaking down over time. The plys within the board are created through glueing and pressing, but the glue used is not generally waterproof, causing irreparable damage if disintegrated. Plywood edges, which absorb moisture faster than the surface, are weak spots, making it crucial to seal them to protect the board.
📹 Introduction to T1-11 Plywood Siding
T1-11 Siding Ever heard of it? If you’re a contractor, of course you have. If you’re a do-it-yourselfer, maybe not. If you haven’t …
Thanks for a very informative article. Why isn’t a housewrap required? Is the rigid foam waterproof and airtight? Also since the fasteners go through the rigid foam, do they get adequate support? I would think that the foam doesn’t provide much support and it would be like installing the siding with an air gap from a structural standpoint.
The t111 siding on your house will leak for sure where the top panels meet the bottom. If you used j website and put that board across the website it will leak most definitely. The only way to properly install it is to first fur out the top with strips of 5/8 (make strips with scrap t111.) This way when you put the top sheets on it will overlap the bottom. No leak this way…. If you take those panels off you will see how water has got through the back side.
The horizontal trim board at the splice point has always concerned me as a water collection point. The vertical groves 8″ oc are perfect websites for water to get behind the trim even when loaded up with caulk. I suppose you could rip an angle on top of the trim board; but … I’ll assume you’ve got some Z-bar behind the trim too. Thanks for the article.
DO NOT USE THIS CRAP! You are better off slapping down plywood and waiting until you have the cash for vinyl later. I put this on one year ago and it is already coming off!! It warps, it doesn’t hold on, it’s cheap it’s shitty! I am going to have to rip it off put playwood on and then put siding over it. To do that I have to cut the soffits and cost me way more and take way more time than to just do it right the first time!
Ny plantings: Looks like your replies for YouTube are turned off, so I’ll reply here. I think the only way to replace part of a T1-11 board would be to use some type of trim to cover the joint and lots of caulk. I’m thinking board & batten type of thing. However, I think it would be hard to keep the water out over the long term, especially a chevron pattern. Probably better to special order the 9 ft boards and replace them. Be careful taking the old ones off and use them as a pattern to make replacing and matching easy.
sweatyfish2007, No problems putting the T1-11 over 2″ foam. I think I used 3 1/2″ screws. My studs were 16″ on center and I put screws every 12″ or so on all studs. Again, no problems. If there was a stud where the tongue and groove overlapped I would put a screw. I used lot of caulk to make sure no water could get in. It has held up very well.
Leif, Did you use the OSB type or the laminated plywood type of T1-11? If it was the OSB type then I agree with you, but I’ve had good luck with the laminated plywood type. The biggest key I’ve found is to seal it with paint or caulk. If I keep it painted and the joints sealed, it lasts a long time. Sorry about your luck with it.
Laminate, I primed and painted before putting on. It warps on the on sunny side of the garage. If I was smart I would have put 1/2″ plywood down for $20 or less a sheet then wrapped it. Then this year put Smartside vinyl siding down for $40 a 4’x8′ sheet and done it right the first time. I let the carpenter talk me into this crap since he said I could just vinyl over it in a few years when I had some more cash saved up. Bad advice.
I saw a different article that after the weather paper was installed they used furring strips on the studs to allow moisture to flow down the weather paper without getting trapped and rotted. So im not sure what article is correct, according to this article you install the siding directly over the weather paper allowing moisture to be trap in between the siding and paper. Not saying it’s wrong just don’t know
Hi. I have a contemporary home similar to yours and about 2400 sq. It’s 23 yrs old and I have a few questions: 1. how long before I need to replace it (some areas look very worn with paint chipping, wood deteriorating, etc.), 2. how much might it cost me to replace all the siding?, 3. is there anything I can treat it with to prevent woodpeckers from continuing to ‘dig’ into the sides of the house?
Hello, I also have T1-11 siding on my new house. I am wondering what you used to seal the top of your window? I also have a thick frame around my windows that have been wrapped with aluminum, but the T1-11 has grooves where water can get in. Did you seal just with a lot of caulking or is there another way?
Building a tiny house on trailer, and limited to 102 inches in width. To save space, I’m thinking about doing a 3/8 plywood sheathing, and then using 1/2″ T1-11 siding, as I want to put house wrap between both. Can I either put T1-11 directly on studwalls thus avoiding the 3/8 sheathing? Or can I also put both sheathing and siding up together, or would that be overkill? Thanks
I agree that T1-11 has a nice post modern vibe. However, unless it is vigorously primed, painted and maintained it will deteriorate due to the open ply grooves. I would suggest a better siding is solid siding such as James Hardie fiber cement? It has a much longer life and will not warp or delaminate. The horizontal siding and or board and batten appearance is quite nice and more worry free.
Bob Ferguson Something is broke in YouTube or Google+ so I can’t reply directly. You asked whether to use 3/8 plywood underT1-11. T1-11 is plenty strong, but since you are talking about a tiny house on a trailer, I would want the extra rigidity of plywood under the T1-11 so things don’t rack while you pull the tiny house down the road. Lot’s of people have tiny house articles on YouTube so they might be a better resource. Great question.
Hello John Davis, For some reason the system wouldn’t let me reply directly so I’ll do it here. I’m not crazy about installing siding over other siding. However, as long as you have a flat, stable surface, you probably could. You might want to have your fiber cement shingles tested for asbestos. That may affect your decision on how to proceed.
Thank you for the article. I myself have a home with what i presume is this T1-11 siding or something similar in wood. the house was built in 1977. My issue is the wood covering the seams in the siding. In your article and subsequent replies you used cedar. I live in Colorado and thought pine/redwood might be appropriate. Thoughts? In your article you mentioned caulking the top and not the bottom was this on the cedar?
Thanks. The first time I knew the siding on my house was called “T1-11″ was when I got an estimate from a contractor to powerwash and paint (or stain) the house. Now I have to decide which route to go and what colors/products to use. The house was built in 1983 and despite exposure to rain, harsh Poconos winters, and (to the best of my knowledge) the original stain, the siding has held up well. Can’t say the same for the 1/4” plywood soffits and pine 1X12 fascia, much of that has to be replaced as well.
OK, thanks for this. For rotted bottom t1-11 plywood sheets (mine are 9ft believe it or not) but the rest of board is fine.also the pattern is as chevron so it seems a bit tough to line up. Can we just cut across the panel and add a fill in piece or is it best to just replace the whole board. Lastly, the 2″ thick foam board, taped, is a great touch. T