This video provides a step-by-step guide on how to resurface brake rotors at home for free, ensuring smooth and quiet brakes. The video discusses different types of brake rotors and methods for resurfacing them using a brake lathe. Resurfacing brake rotors at home can save money and improve vehicle braking performance. The main premise behind a brake lathe is that two tools cut each side of the rotor simultaneously, advancing on the same cross slide.
Turning a brake rotor involves machining or resurfacing the rotor to make it smooth and even again. This procedure can be performed on a lathe, a sandpaper, or a lathe. It is important to know when it is safe to do this auto repair.
If you can’t find someone to turn the rotors and don’t have access to a brake lathe, there is a machine for the specific purpose. It spins the rotor normally while a die cutter shaves a metal thread off the rotors.
In summary, resurfacing brake rotors at home can save money and improve vehicle braking performance. It is essential to follow the instructions carefully and take the time to ensure the rotors are in good condition.
📹 DIY Do It Yourself Redneck Brake Rotor Resurface: Resurface Brake Rotors at Home
Disclosure: I was NOT paid or given a discount for this review. As an Amazon Associate I earn a commission from qualifying …
Can you machine rotors at home?
The resurfacing of rotors at home is a feasible undertaking when undertaken with the appropriate tools and skills. However, it is generally recommended that the task be performed by a professional in order to achieve optimal results.
Why not to machine rotors?
Rotor weight distribution is crucial for safety, as it prevents shaking and vibration during driving and braking. Thin machining can damage brake parts and overheat, fade, and lose stopping power. Incorrect resurfacing can lead to mistakes or excessive metal shaving, causing vibration. Signs of worn or damaged brake rotors include uneven distribution, vibration, and worn bits. It is essential to replace rotors if these conditions are present, such as excessive metal shaving, vibration, or uneven machining. It is essential to follow these guidelines to ensure optimal performance and safety.
Can you do your own rotors?
This blog provides a step-by-step guide on how to replace rotors and brake pads on vehicles. It includes tools and supplies needed, such as jack and jack stands, wheel chocks, a hammer, fluid extractor, flat head screwdriver, rotors and brake pads, a brake piston compressor, caliper hooks or coat hanger, and brake lubricant. Brakes To Go offers free brake inspections and can handle any brake repair needs. For more information on the process and pricing, visit the Brake Pad Replacement Cost Guide.
How do you manufacture rotors?
The manufacturing process for solid rotors involves pouring molten material into a mold, leveling it, and pressing it lightly to compact the part. The rotor is then subjected to a press, which compresses it to 400 degrees, making it stronger. The next step is precision milling and drilling, with braking surfaces milled flat and lug nut holes drilled. Drilled rotors have holes to dissipate heat and reduce weight, while slotted rotors provide better ventilation during heavy braking conditions. The rotor is polished and inspected for structural defects before being cleaned and packaged. Additional treatments like zinc chromate passivation may be required before packaging and shipping.
Is it hard to do rotors?
The replacement of brake pads and rotors by the vehicle owner can result in a notable reduction in costs. This task can be completed by a moderately skilled individual in a few hours, making it a cost-effective and straightforward option.
Can rotors be machined?
Warped rotors can be easily repaired by machining them, which removes layers of metal material and restores flat surfaces for proper friction and pad contact. However, this process can lead to warping due to thinner rotors and inadequate heat dissipation, compromising brake pad material and causing faster wear. While machining rotors may be cheaper initially, maintenance and repair are more costly in the long run. Most shops charge $250-$325 for rotor machine and replacement, but this is a temporary solution and often uses low-grade brake pads.
At Brakes to Go, we recommend replacing rotors, as customers often believe machining rotors will solve their problem for less. While the price is slightly higher upfront, the longer-lasting product and superior service are worth it. To replace rotors, we charge between $50-$100 more than the machined cost. Contact us today to discuss your repair and receive a free quote.
Is it safe to machine rotors?
Brake rotors gradually lose thickness when brakes are applied, and while some people machine them to extend their life, resurfacing rotors can lead to poorer quality, safety issues, and time-consuming procedures. Drilled and slotted rotors can be machined or cut using a brake lathe, but it is essential to set the brake lathe to its slowest setting. When replacing brake pads, rotors should also be resurfaced to allow proper bedding. To achieve an optimal non-directional cross-cut finish, it is recommended to use a new set of rotors from PowerStop, which may cost less than cutting a rotor.
How many times can rotors be machined?
It is standard practice for shops to cut rotors once, due to the necessity of maintaining a minimum thickness. Failure to meet this requirement can result in the rotor shattering.
Should I machine my rotors?
Brake rotors gradually lose thickness when brakes are applied, and while some people machine them to extend their life, resurfacing rotors can lead to poorer quality, safety issues, and time-consuming procedures. Drilled and slotted rotors can be machined or cut using a brake lathe, but it is essential to set the brake lathe to its slowest setting. When replacing brake pads, rotors should also be resurfaced to allow proper bedding. To achieve an optimal non-directional cross-cut finish, it is recommended to use a new set of rotors from PowerStop, which may cost less than cutting a rotor.
Is it cheaper to machine rotors?
The cost of rotors typically ranges from $50 to $80 each, with the cost of resurfacing them being approximately half of that or less.
Does anyone machine rotors anymore?
In recent years, brake repairs have frequently entailed the replacement of pads and rotors. This is due to the fact that many drivers are accustomed to brake rotors lasting through multiple pads. In consequence of the advent of more intelligent repair facilities and vehicles with more advanced technology, rotors are now being replaced in preference to machining them.
📹 Resurfacing Brake Rotors for Free at Home! (How to)
How to resurface your brake rotors at home for free, follow these simple steps & keep your brakes working smoothly. I made an …
Been resurfacing rotors forever. As long as you do not reach minimum thickness I say go for it. The worst that can happen is that you don’t get the results and need to put a new disc on. Why not save some money. I can say that I have done my own for over 40 years on all kinds of vehicles with great result and no failure. You can waste your money on rotors but I like my money in my pocket.
That is not the way to resurface the rotor if the brake pedal is pulsating. The reason is pulsating is because the rotor surface is uneven….having that drill in your hand unsupported does practically nothing. For this to work, you need to mimic the actual setup of a lathe. The grinding wheel needs to move ever closer and closer while being securely fasten so the high surface area gets sanded and leaving the low surface untouched. You can’t do that while holding the drill.
This is all extremely stupid. Rotor surfaces need to be PERFECTLY flat. And need to have a certain thinkness to resist warping. There is a good reason professionals suggest you buy new rotors, and it has nothing to do with money. Think about the physics involved. You ain’t wrong calling it a Redneck job that’s for sure.
This is not a new concept. Old-timers used to do this on a lathe after cutting the rotors to ensure good bedding. I’ve never run into this issue personally. I normally end up replacing the rotors due to wear, rust and time. Normally I just knock the ridges of and pad swap till the rotors are toast. Brake pulsation used to be a common problem due to pad material. Unless you have a sized caliper and trash the brakes, 99 % of the time its pad material on the rotors that is causing the pulsation. If you have fairly new rotors this is an option. On older rotors I’d not waste my time. They are not that expensive. Shops won’t do this, so if you have some time you can play around. You don’t really need to grind. You just have to skim the surface/put a scratch trough it and bed the pads. Also don’t cheap out on the pads and you won’t have this issue in the first place.
Was thinking to do the same with my f150 using 2 2×4’s with sand paper attached to evenly sand both sides at the same time..or 1×4’s or something that’s flat. Glad to check YouTube first and to block the piston from moving in when it’s removed..and don’t use brakes while resurfacing. So much better than the guy using a small round sander on a flat rotor on the table.. possible uneven sanding.
Little risky..but that is one way to get the rotors to spin. Most guys just take the rotors off and sand them down with 100 or 80 grit. Some years ago I talked to a brake guy and he said he just uses a wire wheel type brush on his drill to clean the surfaces of GOOD rotars. I tried it on an older Acura TL I had and it seemed to work just fine when I put new pads on. BUT good job buddy. Anything you can do in the garage on a weekend afternoon to save yourself 500 bucks is time well spent. Brakes Plus just quoted me 600 to do the rear brakes on my Explorer! lmao…They want to remove my heavy duty high performance rotors I put on 4 years ago and toss them…then put on the OEM stuff. I am like WTF dude. No way. Give me the car back and I will spend a few hours and 50 bucks on the pads and be back on the road with $550 still in my bank account.
Anytime you do new pads you must ALWAYS DO A PAD BREAK IN. Find a safe spot and get your car up to 45 mph and slam on the brakes. Do this 3 times, let them cool and then do it again 2 more times. Your trying to get the new pad material to transfer onto the rotor. Every pad manufacturer has a break in process on their website too.
LOL. Step 1: Don’t guess. Step 2: Check rotor thickness. Step 3: Record thickens before resurfacing. Step 4: Buy the correct tool ie dial indicator/runout gauge. Step 5: Use dial indicator runout tool. Step 6: Keep pretending it’s possible to get a even surface by hand/ keep dreaming. I’m sorry I cant approve this practice lol. I bet it still pulses. Break in the brakes properly and avoid damaging the brakes
Pretty sure u didn’t have to run the car. Pop caliper off and just go around the rotor. Then flip it over and do the same. You are trying to remove the uneven deposits and rebed the pads. Having the car come off the stands or rotor. I have and I don’t allow running engines on it. Seen cars fall off lifts/jack stands etc.
I give it a like. I see you are still getting negative comments from people about a 2 year old article that obviously did not read any of the previous comments. You try to help someone out, and see what you get. Next time anyone tell you to get them turned just tell them “OK send the money and I will”.
I have had ‘luck’ using a hammer (carefully) to first remove the rust and transferred pad material that forms around the inner and outer circumference of the rotor. With the rotor spinning, I then use sandpaper in a similar fashion to remove glazing and to smooth the surface of the rotor – finishing off by spraying it down with brake cleaner and wiping clean. This has worked consistently well without incurring damage to the rotor. Removal of the circumference rust first minimizes the sanding required to do so – saving both time and sandpaper.
Pulsing brakes is caused by a thickness variation of the rotor. Always buff both sides of the rotor hat and hub clean of rust and debris. A lateral runout caused by rust trapped between the rotor and and hub will cause a thickness variation as the rotor wears. Lateral runout can also make the pads wiggle back and forth in the bracket creating a squeaking noise and extra wear on the pad locators.
Nah, I’m good.. I would never attempt this. Too many things that could go wrong. I’d rather buy someone some lunch to turn’em for me or just buy’em new. One can also pick up a brake lathe for almost nothing nowadays as most shops don’t even want to bother with cutting said rotors anymore. They’ll just recommend a new set and call it a day… I still gave you a 👍🏽 for thinking outside the box, though… 😉
Usually pulsating brakes is a clear sign of a warped rotor or drum. I suppose other factors could contribute… I live in a hilly area. With some smaller mountains. Bad pothole roads. Gravel roads. Salted snow covered in the winter. Heavy rain and hot humid in summer. Our cars dont last long.( south of buffalo ny near p.a. boarder) most cars have holes in the floors within 10 years. And suspension systems take a beating. Almost any brake job i have done as a mechanic i have noticed the pads and or slides are frozen in place. This has some to do with others almost always using the wrong lubricants. ALWAYS use silicone grease. But our environment just degrades things very quickly. Because of the hills no matter what type rotors i have used i find that they usually become warped after the first few drives. Brake noises are usually from like mentioned before siezed pad ears or slide pins. Also embedded material in the rotors and or pads. Causing glazing. If you ever have a squeal but the pads have alot of surface left. It is best to clear the rotor like this article. Or to a lesser extent with just some emory clothe and brake cleaner. Also clean the pads. Soak with brake cleaner and wipe with a rag. Then take sand paper or emory cloth and scuff the surface and spray again with brake clean. Do this a few times until the pad appear rough and free of loose material. Most mechanics dont typically do this. But i always have. It is my remedy for brake chirp. I do the same with drums. Often with drums, since thet hold most of the brake dust inside they become embedded.
I would only recommend using rough grit on the lip and the inside. I wouldnt go below 240 for the surface for sure or use the scotch pads for it that were included. That way youll only skim the surface. Also make sure you put your drill at 90° because like you were holding it id guarantee that the surface isnt flat anymore. Anyways howd it go, happy with the result?
Hahahahaha yeah… I’d be surprised if a Honda had a locked differential. I don’t think even a LSD would spin both drive axles unless you pushed the gas a bit because the clutches or whatever the locking mechanism is in the diff wouldn’t be grabbing. I do this with a hard rubber sanding block and the transmission in 1 instead of D
Alot of haters are going to criticize…..but hey….take it as constructive criticism. Great article to share….. And of course…I have to to add one more thing to the article…….Make sure you put in giant letters…” wear glasses while using spinning tools and always measure the thickness before you even decide to start the grinding” I say that because the people that have no idea about brakes will of course try it and sometimes things happens. Great article to share.
Don’t spend money on having your rotors turned. If you have any kind of DIY skills, like this guy, and the right tools you can do it yourself. If you have a side grinder with a flap disc and some calipers that’s the bare minimum you need. If you have a way to spin the rotor then that’s a big bonus. I have a wood lathe that I put my rotor on. I put the rotor on the lathe and spin it at the slowest speed. Then I set my lathe brace parallel to the rotor. Then I take my side grinder with the flap disc and lightly grind the rotor moving the disc forward and backward until I get the desired results. I use my calipers to make sure I’m relatively uniform. Been doing this for years and have NEVER had and issue. The car brakes like normal. The pads wear like normal and they last like they should.
Ive found over the years, in order to prevent an irregular surface developing on brake rotors … to precisely torque the wheel lugs. With inconsistent torque on the rotor hub-flange via the lug nuts, the rotor is probably being forced into a wavy surface pattern. With precise (dry) torque-ing of the wheel lugs (and insuring a clean surface between the rotor and the hub), I rarely have to ‘true’ my rotors.
I may have missed something, so my apologies in advance. However, I believe that there is a difference between resurfacing and applying a non directional surface to the rotor. I understand knocking off the ridge in-order to remove the old pads with ease and installing new pad with out damaging them. I believe the ridge could also be a indication ( warning) of excessive wear. So by simply removing the ridge doesn’t necessarily mean the rotor is true and within manufacturers specs. Meaning it may still be past discard ( dangerous) or have excessive lateral run out. Still enjoy perusal you guys get down and finding your own solutions.
Very creative use of an old woodworker’s plunge router. What is the rated speed of the router in comparison to the maximum safe speed of the flap disk? Any problems so far with the router being too fast and tearing up your flap disks? As someone else pointed out, this method has its risks and you have to be careful not to gouge the surface where the pads clamp the disc, or vibration, etc. will occur. I am glad to see this creative solution has worked for you. Thanks for the article.
One of my rotors has a high spot, I can hear it when it’s dusty out. I’m guessing that if I had a caliper then this would work? I’m not a machinist but hey. Edit..wait, if it’s warped then a caliper may read equal all around. Maybe I’ll see what it costs to have it trued. Thanks for the article either way
Put the rotor back on the car. Put it in drive and then do this as the rotor spins. Works mint. Then flip rotor on hub, and do the other side. Just did this on my neon. You must have the caliper off to do this so put car in neutral before, so you don’t have to push the brake to put car in and out of drive. I was shocked how well it worked.
I started doing this when I was a teen, and had no $. I’d do the same with the flywheel. Worked great every time. Both the rotors and flywheel I’d let the car spin it for me while I used a disc sander on it. I’ve also done it to fix squeaky brakes, which were fairly common some time ago. Just hit it with the sander and reassemble with the same pads, good to go.
9″ dewalt side grinder laying down flat.. Naturally with new grinding disk. Applying pressure evenly around the break router.. Works very well ! Be patient do not concentrate on one certain area.. Continue around the disk evenly.. For such a rough grinding disk You will be amazed at the results ! And always wear eye protection! “AMEN” !!!
I really wouldn’t suggest doing this. You can get rotors turned at most local parts stores for less than the cost in time and tools this takes. I believe it’s around $15 a rotor. That way you won’t have any warping left in the rotor. If you’re changing materials I could see why you might want to try this but like he mentions keeping it even is paramount.
maybe you could explain this misery to me, i bought a set of new tires and they are unbalanced/bouncy at highway speeds between 65-80mph. the old set was perfectly fine. so i had them balanced again, and still the same problem. so i had them balanced by another shop and still the same. thinking it was the tires, i swapped them for another new set of four tires, and these are doing the same thing between the same speeds 65-80mph. the steering wheel does not shake back and forth, it’s a slight bouncing feeling. i’m thinking the only other things it could be is the brake rotors, and the drive shaft. the drive shaft still has its weights on it, so this leaves the brake rotors. since the steering wheel doesn’t shake, and the bouncy feeling is with the entire truck, what could be causing this slight bounce at certain speeds?
I have a lot of experience with angle grinders and I’m not saying this is impossible. But I say if you are not really handy with one of these things, you better be light to the touch with it or you will make this thing wavier than it was when it started. I’m all for doing s*** like this though. But my idea which I haven’t tried yet is bolting the rotor to the axle and then putting it in gear and spinning it slowly and holding a sanding block to it. I don’t know this. Seems like it’d work okay though
I thought this was satire at first. C’mon man this is not good practice. Rotors need to be perfectly flat. Or they’ll cause vibration/shaking/shimmy. This is why you turn rotors on a lathe. Also there’s minimum thickness requirements of each rotor. Some idiot is just gonna keep grinding his rotors until one day it cracks in half under braking. Rotors are relatively cheap unless you drive some euro or sports car. And to have a shop turn your rotors. Shouldn’t cost more than $25. If you can’t afford $25. Then you shouldn’t be driving a car.
Used to do this with a block and sandpaper on the bench, then switched to a block and sandpaper with the rotor on the hub with the vehicle in drive. I’m not real trusting of power tools when I know they can eat metal quickly. Never seen a router used like that though, makes me think of getting a palm or cutoff router for that purpose