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📹 Shop (Tin Roof) Rain Gutter Project, using3″ OD- Sch. 20 PVC (Experiment)
My new shop’s roof overhang was too short to install conventional rain gutters of any type that I could find, so I chose to try 3 inch …
📹 Standing Seam Metal Roofing VsCorrugated Screw Down Metal Roof – Big Differences between the Two
In this video we compare and contrast Standing Seam Metal Roofing vs corrugated or screw down metal roofing. We’ll look …
After a year: After checking the gutter for clogs or obstructions etc. yesterday, I did find it to be rather clogged with old dead leaves and pecan tree seed pods (still falling), which are a nightmare in themselves. I ended up using a small wooden shim to more or less drag and/ or push the muck towards the downspouts, and also had to cut some relief slots at the top of both ends of the gutter (I should have installed cleanouts at both ends), to allow me to remove a good deal of the muck, and then used my water hose with a jet stream nozzle, to clear gutter and downspouts, until the rest of the muck washed down and out the drain. It took longer, and was harder to do than I hoped it would be, but it worked! Since nothing is perfect in the world of rain gutters and leaves etc… I’m more than satisfied with my method.
Thanks for posting this. Had this idea before even seeing your article, but nice to see it implemented. Like that it even protects the edge of your roof. I will have a 12×12 single pitch polycarbonate roof. wonder if it will overflow if no pitch on the gutter in Florida where we sometimes get massive rains.
Oddly enough up here where known for tornadoes and high winds but from what Ive seen on barns and some houses under sever winds and tornados I have seen standing seam missing panels or sections from bad storms but I have not seen a metal roof panel held down by screws come off unless the actual roof came off with it
Take what he says with a grain of salt. The thickness of the metal is based on what they order for roll stock, same can be used for both, same with coatings. Length of panels can be made the same length on site in both types if they come with the equipment rather than a premade product. Interlocking seams on the top/bottom can be bent into both products IF the person applying it does it (generally not done though). The ridges with standing seams are easily damaged with sliding ice in valleys in Northern climates, similar to corrugated but the standing seam is much more prone to damage as it’s straight up seams, where the ice can skate across the bumps in the corrugated not always damaging it. I don’t sell/install either product but the only item in his list that really stands out is the washers in all those exposed screws, that’s the biggest weakness in the product he is trying to put down.
The Morton Buildings screw fastened metal paneling are thicker gauge one of the first to use kynar . Morton also does a very good job of making clean and sleek trims and Flashings. Really on any metal roof system you have to have good installers, it won’t do any good to have a good product then have someone do a hack job, I see that alot.
This is funny. In 1971, a school was throwing away sheet metal as they were tearing down the school. My Father brought it all home, and my mother jumped all over him for doing this. He took it all in stride, and let her yapp away. We had an old barn he kept his tractors in, so, he took that sheet metal, put it on the roof of that old barn and that sheet metal was covered with tar yiu can buy at a hardware store as he painted that over the sheet metal. That roof, lasted a long, long time into the future. My Father was way ahead of his time in thinking before this metal roof paten was even currently thought of. My Father was a genius in a lot of things he did.
Installed my 1st snap lock 1 ” standing seam roof this past year. Shed roof 28 ft from ridge to drip edge & 52 ft wide. Had to build a ramp up to roof to keep such long pieces from kinking while transferring from ground to roof. Points I would share: 1 – got a quote from a roofing Co. Quote was 24,000.00. I bought all needed supplies including stove pipe penetration kit & 2″ vent penetration kit plus all needed screws, trim, caulking etc for $8000.00 & installed completely in 80 hrs alone – another 4,400.00 for my time. I used a paint on vapor barrier on the roof ply. Thats half the quoted price. I was pleased with the simplicity of the installation but it WAS the simplest of roofs. The waterproofing edge details were logical & easy to bend/install/caulk in foam inserts. I would definitely use again but maybe not on more complicated roofs with a lot of penetrations.
@Anon ymouse I am not the producer of this vid but i can tell you some things. Standing seam vs. Exposed fasteners. 1)I have not done many standing seam roofs. However, they definitely are not fastened to the roof as well as exposed fastener roofs. Exposed fastener roofs are screws down every 6 inches or so horizontally and every two ft vertically. Standing seam is not…and have way less fasteners. 2) exposed fastener roofs do not have a neoprene washer as this guy stated. The washers are made out of EPDM which is a rubber that lasts 30 plus years and is used on full 100×10 ft rolls (weighing in around 450lbs) of EPDM on commercial roofs( big buildings). Exposed fastener metal roofs are durable and also increase the value of the home. 3) exposed fastener roofs are way faster to install. Which costs less in labor. 4) in my opinion standing seam is boring looking. Think of the jeeps that have exposed bolts and nuts and stuff…they look cool as shit. Standing seam looks way less cool. 5) if a tree branch falls on standing seam you have to take the roof off from one side and potentially to the other to replace a panel. That is not the case with exposed fastener roofs. So think about the labor costs on that one. 6)exposed fastener roofs are easier and faster to install. They are easier to repair. They are warranted for about the same amount of time. 7) if you have a house and getting a roof any of the metal roofs add value to the home. They might just last 50 years. Warranted for 35 for exposed fastener.
There are metal roof products on the market that use hidden fastener systems and last a long time. I have installed both types in NH and have never had a problem. As long as you hem to the drip edge and use ice and water shield these roofs will last a long time. Attention to detail is the most important thing and you have to think like rainwater and snow so you will have no leakage.
In the UK we have just had Storm Eunice and the record-breaking 120mph gust on the Isle of White. The rooves that blew off were all Standing Seem types. Once the wind gets under an edge it rips off the whole roof – because the first panel to lift becomes a sail as the seam from one panel to the next panels holds in the wind and the drag from the loose panel is transferred to the next panel and just like a zipper, the whole roof peels off. In the Corrugated system, if the wind gets under a panel it gets pulled off – but it does not take other panels with it. Perhaps the edge detail needs to be improved to stop the first failure in standing seems.
I can’t believe you’re in the roofing industry and you can’t screw a roof down properly. If you screwed the exposed fasteners correctly you wouldn’t have the problems you talk about. NEVER screw in the valley, only on the ridge. NEVER over constrain the sheet by putting in too many screws (it needs to move, a screw on each side of the ridge is a big no-no) In Australia we have been using exposed fasteners for decades on corrugated metal roofing. It is a tried and true method in extreme heat and cold. Even if the washers did deteriorate the water needs to rise above the ridge to even think about leaking. My own home has exposed fasteners, I’ve been living in it for over thirty-five years and have not had a leak. Not saying that ‘Standing Seam Roofing’ is worse (or better), I’m just pointing out the ‘evils’ you mention for exposed fasteners don’t exist if done properly.
Definitely a bias towards the standing seam. I get it, but at twice the cost for materials, it’s not in everyones budget. I’m putting Fabral corrugated metal on my timber frame pavilion and with the little hint about the working life of the screw washers, will leave my self a reminder to replace them in about seven years, with a slightly larger diameter or longer screw if need be.
This isn’t a comparison of the two systems by an unbiased party. When I saw the fasteners installed in the valleys of the corrugated sheet I could see where this was going. Why would you install fasteners where the water will run? Also, the corrugations allow for expansion horizontally so that problem doesn’t apply. For vertical expansion there would only be a difference if the fasteners on standing seam are loose enough for slippage. That seems sketchy. I’d want to see a demo of a fastener marked and shown movement from the mark due to sunlight. Best to check other sources also before deciding what’s best for your home/climate/budget.
My Solar panel folks and Architect said the mechanically crimped Standing Seam 26 gauge metal can be put on my low slope of 3/4″ to 12″. Almost flat roof but a bit less than 1to 12. My builder put on Corrugated steel 5 years ago and I trusted him. He said it would be just a good at Standing Seam they used extra butyl tape and 1×4 so screws could go into that I guess. . Could you give me your input? I don’t want to make another major mistake. If I can’t have this Mechanically crimped Standing Seam type roof on my house then all I’m left with is EPDM but then I will have lost 25,000 for the Solar install I had 5 years ago. There is no where on my property to move them . Am guessing Ballistered EPDM would probably weigh too much for me to put that on my house to attach or glue cinder blocks on it to hold the 40 panels. estimated 4300 pounds. HELP!
I’ve had experience with corrugated roofs in N. Idaho; they were older than 9-12 years however. Number 8 screws had backed out on one roof and many screws were missing. This roof would have been toast in the next windstorm. Original installer held his screw gun out of square to the surface. Replaced all screws with #14s, which saved the roof. However there was rot in the sheathing from leaks around screws. Roof boards were never replaced, unfortunately.
I always thought you get what you pay for. Not in this case! I went with Hy-Grade roofing even though they were by far the most expensive quote I received. Worst decision I could have made. They promised to install the roof in 4-6 weeks, of course they were late. When they finally showed up without the proper equipment and they damaged my property. They are really proud of the “Quality Audit” that they do, but of course they won’t give you a copy of the audit…lol BTW – the “Quality Audit” they did at my house consisted of 2 guys coming over to pickup the leftover junk they left at my house for a month. They never even went up on the roof! Horrible customer service experience! Save your money use someone else!
Which style is superior for the mounting of solar panel arrays? Additionally, some solar panel’s output can be boosted by have sunlight reflecting back through them. Can any of these metal roofing materials be spit polished to increase that photonic absorption? What style is better for the inclusion of skylights?
looking at the standing seam how does the water not get between the where the 2 panels connect at if the rain is wind blown . Plus on corrugated metal how do you address roof vents for plumbing and air . In Virginia we need the air to flow from the front to the back of the attic . some of the ones here with ridge vents get blown off . I have watched my neighbor with a ridge vent get it repaired 4 times and it is a new house built only 7 years ago . Same with some of my other neighbors that have ridge vents . I am up on a hill and I have no ridge vent but have vents on the back of my house . I am thinkng of a metal roof now snce roof in last couple of days with freezing temperatures and wind has blown 6 of my shingles loose on the front of my house . Just in 1 spot and 200 dollars to repair the damage since i had extra shingles
A lot of metal rooves are installed without underlayment. That underlayment would seem a good idea to save the wooden purlin and screw connection. I see screws and nails coming free from the purlins due to the moisture of condensation getting caught on the purlins. The resulting rust over time deteriorates the wooden purlin. I haven’t tried, but I’d like to see more of the screws inserted through the top of the panel ridges. I’m curious how hammering or screwing the screws affect the surface of the ridges. Would they get mashed or dimpled and cause a water ponding or building up instead of shedding the water? I’ve observed a surprising amount of water from condensation shed under the roof panels. The type of wood used for purlins might affect the duration of the roof as well.
All too often, contractors drive aluminum fasteners into steel, which sets up for electrolytical corrosion, a problem which plagued the aircraft industry, in the early, to mid 20th century. In roofing, this leads to widening holes, and tears, around fasteners, in addition to the thermal expansion, and contraction related tearing of panels, and popping out of fasteners. Thanks for sharing this.
Steep roof cabins in the mountains do better with standing seam sheet metal roofing as long as there are no valleys in the roof design. The screws holding corrugated sheet metal bend over and eventually tear out over time due to snow buildup, bottom layer ice formation, and eventual migration of accumulated snow/ice down slope. I see this on mountainous area cabins where they get a lot of snow. So called “fat boy” fasteners have been employed to curb bending but eventually even they get worked out where moisture seeps under the screw seal washer, freezes, expands, pulling the screw up bit by bit over time. If a cabin was built where the roof has a valley, neither roofing type will stand up. The ridges of corrugated, and seams of standing seam, sheet metal roofs can allow ice and snow to accumulate massively in the valleys. As thawing commences slope accumulations begin to migrate down slope into the valley of both slopes causing haphazard build-up and creating “glaciers”. These eventually become so large/heavy they overcome the strength of materials and migrate down valley while tearing out/through obstructions in path. Think what ridges and seams of either roofing type do, they act as obstructions, not to slope but to down valley migration. I’ve seen several feet of slope of corrugated sheet metal roofs get mashed/ twist over / torn off in and above the valleys of these roofs. No type of fastener, sheet metal roofing type can stop this type of damage unless the surface is completely smooth or valleys nonexistent.
German here, first: Standing seam is always better. But to allow expansion, contraction in the metall you dont screw in the overlap you use ribets there or just use metal glue… actualy easy and logical, never understood ppl doin that anyway, even better would be a folding technique in that part to not need any fasteners. Standing steam…if i start its gonna be a long text so to keep it “short” the product “Rheinzink” is nice but proly neache in the us, but the advertisers over there, if they have the same understanding of the product like they have in there origin, they can teach you how its done. Your product looks like it can handle the low price of corrugated sheets and i doubt Rheinzink can, but the technique to fold the metall into eachother is a whole other story, we had/have a own job description in germany only for that depending on the region of germany. I mean look at those valleys, if you would just use a strip of metal and ribet them down and use those to hang in the other sheets they wouldnt blow up that much. Just ask them to show you the detailed architectural drawings, for all kinda parts of the roof to get some ideas. US is on the way to get alot better roofings then you guys had in the past!
They have screws that cover the washer for the corrugated metal roof. You can also put your screws on the high part of the corrugated metal roof (Likely never leak.) Corrugated metal is not usually 29 gauged. 24 and 26 is more common. However the expansion and contraction is a strong point for standing seam. After 10 – 15 years replacing your screws on a corrugated metal is a good idea for maintenance ($ 1,500 – $ 3,000). One can also use purlins (1×4) nailed to roof creating an air gap helping one with insulation and reducing expansion and contraction damage (I do not know about standing seam. To me it came down to cost. I paid about 50% more for my corrugated roof than shingles. I have a 10/12 pitch and it ate my shingles alive. However it was about another 50% increase to step up to standing seem. I’m sure all regions are different with the cost structure. Standing Seems is also better if you want solar in the future. I have a southern looking home in Florida so the corrugated on my 20 acres seem to be a better architectural choice. If money is not a concern, standing seams like a better choice. Florida just overhauled the laws in regards to roof damage complicating the cost benefit of better roofing.
Thirty two years ago I worked for a year in a sheet metal shop owned by Al a 70 year old man who grew up working in his family’s sheet metal shop. I didn’t do much installation but I did bend up a lot of single and double lock standing seam pans by hand useing an 10 foot break, in galvanized, copper, one lead coated copper job and hundreds and hundreds of attachment clips. I doubt I’ll ever have a copper standing seam roof on my own house but I will have a coated steel standing seam roof one day. Al sold me on standing seam when I was 18 for many of the same reasons laied out in this article being, no attachment penetrations and the ability to expand and contract. Ps. When I asked Al how long a lead coated copper roof would last he said “the building will probably fall down before the roof ever fails”. It was a new concrete block building and this was its first roof.
Awesome information! My question is around installation, can standing seam be installed over top of corrugated? My corrugated roof is now 22 years old and needs an upgrade, we live in the snow belt and usually by mid February the snow and ice builds up on the roof and doesn’t slide off easily, it slowly creeps down because of the exposed screw heads, and the overhang can get to four feet before it breaks off. We are going to replace the roof this summer with standing seam regardless of wither we can go over it or not.
pretty good job over explaining the differences I have been putting metal roofs on since 1977 huge commercial jobs steel mills factories schools churches power plants maybe I’m just lucky but we do not use Amish screws with the little rubber gaskets we use commercial grade screws into Steel I have never had him back out one thing I am curious about he said no screws go into the sheeting on all the commercial jobs I’ve ever done according to the prince you have to put screws in the top for the sheet and the bottom I did not see this on your sheathing on your standing seam by the way all the commercial sheathing I’ve worked with I’m standing scene have slide clips so if you didn’t pin the bottom and a top everything would slide down hill and if your clips do not slide then there is no expansion and contraction do that roof sheet by the way I have put standing-seam roofs from Florida the Minnesota and literally hundreds of Acres of roof
You forgot the largest difference … Price. Low income people can not afford your fancy standing seam . I was given estimate of around 16 grand for sanding seam on my house alone but got my house AND garage done for 6 grand with exposed . Ill go up on my roof every few years and check screws first..
I’m puzzled to your explanation to swelling and contraction as far as the clips go, I install standing seam roofs about 8 to 10 times a year and I am a firm believer that its the best roofing solution on the market also the most expensive but let’s be honest here all standing seam roofs will have screws in the panel itself, or maybe you could explain how the z website is attached at cap, end wall flashing, transition points and outside rake enquiring minds would like to know
When I use corrugated steel roofing I always pre-drill the hole for the screws on the ridge, not the valleys. And to not have to worry about expansion and contraction warping the metal – just slightly oversize the hole. e.g. if the screws require a 4mm hole – then drill it to 4.5mm. Have never had any of the problems listed in this article and live in a fairly extreme climate.
This is what the Director at the Canadian Roofing Association (CRCA) has to say about Hy-Grade: “I will say that I have researched this company – Hy-Grade Roofing – and did not take me long to find several complaints and bad reviews with the BBB (Better Business Bureau). These types of complaints would have been enough for me to pass on this contractor. I see many issues and complaints related to the many ‘Metal Roofing Companies’ who promise the world to the customer, then don’t follow through when it’s time to enforce the warranty or get issues rectified…” Not even the CRCA would use you as a contractor. I invite all potential customer to contact the CRCA before signing with Hy-grade!
The clips prevent leaking but not lateral expansion that creates oil canning. This is commonly known in the industry.That’s why you want standing seam WITH striations or corrogation in the metal. Otherwise you’ll see your roof popping up. Don’t get a totally flat paneled roof. Look at other sources on this.
I wanna start my own Standing Seam Metal Roofing company here in North Texas (aka 51st State (nee) Alberta Canada), I wanna do my house its 16yrs old needs new shingles, I will use a SSMR system but 1st…. I wanna VB, 4″ insulation sheeting, slats (breathability/>thermal bridging) then the SSMR…. 100 Fiddy year roof. (Paint every Fiddy yrs) With the roof insulation,…..Home Skill….. that alone is worth 400per yr ave NA home, in heating/cooling $, not to mention the $ in being comfortable in your own home Apt without going broke. See Matt Reisinger (Texan) Homes Building Homes (Anything really) With SCIENCE, See also MR’s “500yr House”
i appreciate the article very professional. i was hoping you were going to include comparison for sub surface requirements AND A ROUGH COST COMARISON I WOULD LOVE TO INVEST IN STANDING SEAM. I HAVE A HIGH PITCHED ROOF 1932 CEDAR shingles nailed directly to horizontal true 1 x no underlayment. Approximately 30 years ago Asphalt shingles were reroofed on top of existing. No tear off, no sheathing added. The attic height approx 20 ft and 42 wide.Basically a rectangular layout in Southern California, ( snow present in the yard once in 1978). My QUESTION: .If only ridged insulation panels are required and additional horizontal nailers I hoping to save on the traditional costs of wood sheathing underlayment using asphalt shingles. Am I out in left field on this or what.
I’ve built a lot of buildings using exposed-fastener 29 gauge steel roofing. I regret it now. Yes, I saved lots of money. But in the long run it would have been smarter to go with standing seam. I’m now looking seriously at tearing off my twelve-year-old metal roofing to upgrade to standing seam, as I’m tired of needing to retighten hundreds and hundreds of screws every year.
I don´t think I have ever seen a corrugated roof on a residential building ever. I don´t even think it´s legal here to install a roof like that for the same reasons you described, it´s not up to code. The only places where I have ever seen this kind of roof are some 3rd world countries where people just have no other choice and this kind of material is very valuable. Our material is usually 21 gauge. We use Titanium/Zinc alloy or copper. It is rarely painted, it usually is either blank are “pre-patina treated” where it´s evenly greyish in color. I have always liked metal roofs, their only downside is they are expensive and not easy to make properly.
This, very poorly argued, adverisement is dishonestly presented and based on lies. I have worked extensively with all kinds of metat sheeting rooves over the last sixty years and I base my remarks on facts. Everything this man is saying is either outright lies or gross exagerations. The favourale coments lead me to suspect their sources and integrities. Bloke from Aus.
Standing seam roofs cost nearly 3 times as much as corrugated roofs but only last about twice as long. Where I live, in SW Louisiana, they both only last about 15 years on average. That’s the the average amount of time before 115-140mph winds come through and rip everything to pieces. If you live in a hurricane zone, standing seam just isn’t worth it. I am 55mi from the coast but if you live right ON the coast, a hurricane will remove sections of interstates and completely remove concrete foundations leaving no evidence that a house was once there.
So let me see here. After listening to your whole article where you repeat yourself at least 5 times for every point (annoying by the way). There are lots of reasons why standing seam is better than corrugated and apparently there are no disadvantages…none. Wow, amazing. Why does anyone use corrugated then? Why don’t we just pass a law?
Standing is twice the price of 26 gauge ribbed roof….at 10-12 years have your roof painted again to ensure no leaks and freshen up color. Metal roofing is almost to same price as asphalt shingles and easier and faster to install yet metal roofing contractors charge 5-10x the cost. Thanks for the article but you havent changed my mind.
I’ve re-roofed more standing seam than I have shingled roofs ! Screw down has proven itself time & time again ! I have only gone back to 1 that I replaced all the screws because the owner fed into the hogwash that the screws will leak in another year or two. I did the job & was then told that his steel roof was 25 years old ! I then showed him his screws & 99.999% were just fine & they would not have leaked ! Use the screw down steel people you’ll be happy you did ! btw, all my buildings & house are screwed down & no leaks up here in Montana … my buddy HAD a standing seam roof & it was ripped right off the first year unfortunately the contractor died of a heart failure but we got the guys insurance to replace it & I put on screw down steel been great up to now @15 yrs !
I didn’t read all the comments of others so maybe it was mentioned. But one other MAJOR difference between the two systems is the COST. The corrugated is way cheaper and easier to install for any layman. The sheets come in about 3 foot widths whereas the other is 1 foot. Yes, the seamless is better for all the reasons mentioned in the ad, but corrugated has its application and can be leakproof too if installed correctly.
If the screws are correctly installed to where the gasket does not become totally flattened out when screwed, then the tuff ribbed metal will be just fine and will not back out, if you also used furring strips screwed into you roof joist . The steel is also manufactured warranty with a limited 40 year minimum life on structure and color if properly installed . I love mine and it was 12k less than standing seam, for 32 squares of roof surface with 4 pitch gables and 4 valleys .
I think it is how the contractor does to put the screws in . On my carport and shed they put sleepers down and screwd the screws in the metal diffent that the way the screws are put in that you show . Also my contractor did not put up pieces like you show . it is one long piece from top to bottom and my carport is an oversized 3 car one wide but i can also park more vehicles behind the ones there and i can park 6 cars . Contractors matter . A poor installation makes metal roofing look bad . But standing seam is wider and the amount of clips matter also on standing seam . I have seen sheet put on a nieghbors house and the contractor only put 3 clips on 30 ft long sheet of standing seam . POOR INSTALLER
I just yesterday had a leak in the barn roofing (corrugated) that was from a heavy downpour and high wind that blew water up and over the underneath corrugation and under the upper corrugation. The roof is not defective. It has no rising screws or cracked gaskets on the screws. While on the roof I swept detritus from the storm, which can accumulate and make little dams that catch water and can overflow the corrugation lap joints. Corrugated metal roofing is suitable only for barns and sheds, not for houses and buildings that have finished interiors. Yet I see NO houses that have standing seam roofs.
I replaced my shingle roof with standing seam metal in 2011. No problems with the roof, however I have been informed that my home insurance co. will not renew my coverage because the roof will be over 11 yr old. I find this quite surprising. TRAVELERS Has anyone had the experience? SOUTHEAST ALABAMA.
This guy literally has no idea what he’s talking about, the reason he’s able to point out all of these flaws in corrugate is because it’s all incorrectly installed and misinformation. -All of the rubber washers he’s shown have been screwed down so tight they’re getting crushed, obviously this is going to damage them, if you torque them right they will last well over 15 years. -he’s demonstrated screwing through the pan (the valley or flat part of the sheet), water is going to be rushing towards the screw here, screws should be fixed into the ribs of the sheet where no water will be able to reach it, this is an instant fail in the roofing associations code of practice.. -corrugated is completely compatible with metal expansion and contraction, if you screw through the ribs and don’t over tighten the sheets can move as much as they need to without fixings being affected, he is over exaggerating saying the metal moves up and down so much that it pulls out the fixings lmao, I’ve stripped hundreds if not thousands of 50-70 year old corrugate roofs I’ve never ever once seen the fixings completely out, unscrewed or broken.. this is a total fabrication he’s made this up it’s kinda funny 😂 – with the interlocking system, there’s no need for any of this on corrugate, on eves the sheets over hang the drip edge so there’s no way water is getting anywhere near the fascia, he’s also stuttering so much here it’s almost as if this were scripted and not at all factual.. throwing around a bunch of fancy terms like rakes and change of pitch that has nothing to do with interlocking, corrugated rakes are flashed, change of pitches are flashed, ridges are sealed and riveted down, if done correctly it’s all completely water tight, the ridge he shows in this article has to be the roughest ridge cap I’ve ever seen, screws in the wrong place, unriveted with no underseal or flash guard -Seams in metal, saying 30ft is the most corrugate can be run out is total bs, you can literally run corro as long as you want it’s completely continuous, one sheet from top to bottom no matter how long.
I have been helping to install a standing seam floating roof system using a manual crimping tool, and automatic electric seam sealer. The panel are 46′ long, and the boss was unfamiliar with how to install this system, but he went ahead anyway after a brief description from the delivery guy. My sense was that you could either manual crimp at the beginning and at the end, and go over each seam with electric seam sealer, and repeat for each seam, or you could do assembly line process, and lay down all roof panels crimping each sheet manually 3 or 4 times, and then go over the whole roof with automatic seam sealer all in one step. I was also led to believe that you needed to use manual crimper at each clip fastener. My boss had a lot of trouble getting seam sealer to work properly. We began putting a fastener clip down every 2 feet which seems excessive to me. A clip at perimeters, and every 10′ would seem to be a better idea. It would be a lot less work, and I think using less clips more easily allows for expansion of metal, and much of what holds roof down is panels being crimped together. The boss is still trying to figure out what we have been doing wrong because the seam sealer is not doing the job.
But you failed to show us how the standing seam type is continued with the next panel, as in….how does it connect to its neighboring panel, and how is it watertight against that neighboring panel? Then too, you failed to show all the other components of the standing seam panel get installed…..like, the side trim edges, and the ridge cap! Geez! Us newbies would like to know about those important caveats, in order to decide if the standing seam type is do-able, without busting the budget! Big failure perusal this article, as you explained very little and showed us even less!
Just had Hy Grade Roofing install a metal roof at my house. Worst decision I could have made. They promised to install the roof in 4-6 weeks, of course they were late. When they finally showed up without the proper equipment and damaged my property. They are really proud of the “Quality Audit” that they do, but of course they won’t give you a copy of the audit…lol BTW -the “Quality Audit” they did at my house consisted of 2 guys coming over to pickup the leftover junk they left at my house for a month. They never even went up on the roof! Save your money use someone else!
You look at any of the old metal roofs in the south and they are all standing seam. These exposed screw roofs are an inferior option. The metal used for it is meant for siding not roofing. You get what you pay for. As for those commenting of this guy promoting a product, at no time does he mention a brand name.
Metal roofs are the go to roof in Hawaii, and corrugated metal is the most common, usually the type with no flat surface. Because those types are louder in the rain. Also most all metal roofs are screwed down on the ridge rather than the valley. Screwed down by the ridge allows the metal to flex, and also allows the rubber washer to lose its seal, without leaking moisture. Very common to see used metal for out buildings without even sealing the old screw holes, because rarely will they even drip in a rain storm.