Double bubble insulation is a popular choice for insulating metal buildings due to its effectiveness in controlling temperature and moisture, as well as its ease of installation. Its double layer of polyethylene bubbles provides the most effective thermal break, making it harder for radiant heat to transfer through than with single bubble insulation. This is especially important when constructing new buildings and putting in insulation from the start. Double bubble insulation behaves like exterior rigid foam insulation in terms of condensation and vapor management. In Climate zone 4a, the IRC doesn’t worry about interior vapor retarders and provides no prescriptive measures.
In this video, we show how to insulate a metal building yourself using double bubble foil insulation. Double bubble insulation can be used for walls, floors, attics, and crawl spaces, and is perfect for applications where insulation needs to be installed behind. It is an effective way to ensure your home is properly insulated and helps keep energy costs down. The R-value of double bubble insulation is typically R-3.5 to R-4, depending on the thickness of the insulation.
While a half-inch of foam won’t offer much thermal protection, it is still far superior to bubble foil, which has an R-value of about 1 per inch. Properly applied silver bubble wrap can measurably increase your home’s R-value and keep your home cooler during the hottest parts of the year. However, it is only effective if it is facing open space.
Logically, two foil layers make the insulation more robust, thicker, and stronger, ensuring a bigger thermal break.
📹 Reflective Bubble Foil Insulation/Does It Work???
In this video I’m going to show and prove to you the amount of heat that is reflected using the foil bubble insulation. This does not …
How long does double bubble insulation last?
Investing in metal buildings is a wise decision for long-term durability and minimal maintenance. However, poor quality bubble foil insulation can deteriorate or fail within 7-12 years, allowing condensation to form on the metal and drip inside the building. Customers often seek retrofit installation to fix and clean up the interior of their buildings. BlueTex™ metal building insulation is a superior vapor barrier, air barrier, and radiant barrier choice for metal building insulation. Adding BlueTex™ insulation during new construction is easy and there’s no regret later on. Bubble foil products become brittle and flakes off over time due to their 99. 999 plastic content.
What is the R-value of double bubble foil insulation?
Double bubble insulation products have an average R-Value of 1, but higher R-Values can be achieved by adding enclosed dead air spaces. Reflectivity is a better indicator of a product’s effectiveness than its R-Value, especially in applications requiring controlled radiant heat transfer. To learn more or place an order for double bubble insulation, contact RadiantGUARD at 528-8412 for technical advice or to place an order.
What are the disadvantages of bubble wrap insulation?
It is possible that bubble wrap may not seal effectively around punctures. Therefore, it may be combined with spray foam for insulation purposes. In the event that spray foam is not accessible, foil tape can be employed to address tears, edges, and joints.
Is double bubble insulation waterproof?
The product effectively prevents condensation, thereby reducing stress on heating and cooling systems and ensuring a comfortable home temperature in winter and cooler temperatures in summer, while also saving energy.
Is double foil insulation any good?
The versatility of single and double bubble foil lends itself to a multitude of applications within the home. Single foil is particularly suited to smaller, transient projects, whereas double foil is more appropriate for larger, long-term endeavors. The aforementioned products can be utilized interchangeably, contingent upon the circumstances at hand. The significance of air space is underscored in articles pertaining to the installation of radiant barriers and the integration of fiberglass with bubble insulation in wall structures.
Is a double bubble worth it?
Fiberglass insulation is a highly effective material that traps heat, reduces moisture buildup, and preserves interior temperatures. It is cost-effective, available in higher R-values, and is ideal for keeping structures warmer during colder winters and cooler in hotter climates. Fiberglass insulation offers increased thermal protection in both colder and hotter climates, greater moisture reduction, cost-effectiveness for larger structures, and adaptability to different building types and configurations. When choosing an insulation type for a metal building, it is crucial to research what works best for your region and specific desires.
What R-value does double bubble insulation have?
Double bubble insulation is a cost-effective and energy-efficient solution for insulating homes. Its R-value ranges from R-3. 5 to R-4, depending on the insulation’s thickness. The ICC International Building Code allows for additional R-values by adding trapped air space between the bubble’s reflective surface and the outer wall. Each inch of dead air space is an additional R. The R-value measures an insulation’s ability to resist heat flow, and higher values indicate more effective insulation. Double bubble insulation offers an effective R-value, making it an ideal choice for many homeowners. For more information and free integration concepts, contact 972-836-4829.
How effective is bubble wrap insulation?
Silver bubble wrap is effective in keeping spaces cool during summer due to its reflective layer, which conducts heat and cools down spaces like attics. Reflective aluminum bubble wrap insulation can significantly reduce temperatures with proper installation and consulting with insulation contractors. Foil bubble wrap barriers are long-lasting due to their simple construction and resistance to moisture absorption.
They do not degrade over time and are not susceptible to compacting or disintegration like some insulators. Additionally, reflective bubble wrap is immune to water damage, preventing rot and saving on water damage costs. Consulting with insulation contractors can ensure the benefits of this setup.
Is double insulation worth it?
A home’s thermal barrier should consist of a continuous layer of insulation on all sides, including the lowest floor, exterior walls, and ceiling or roof. Doubled insulation thickness can double its R-value, reducing heat loss by half. However, the energy saved per year by doubling insulation from R-10 to R-20 is more than the energy saved by doubling insulation from R-20 to R-40 due to the law of diminishing returns. In some cases, like attics, more insulation is worth adding due to room.
Stopping air leaks is equally important as insulation, as it can reduce insulation efficiency by up to 50%. Some insulation types are effective, but it’s best to keep the insulation tight to the air barrier.
What is the disadvantage of foil insulation?
Foil insulation is a costly metal-based product that requires regular cleaning to ensure optimal efficiency. To prevent dust buildup, it is best to keep the reflective side facing downwards or vertically. Reflective insulation can become an electrical hazard if a wiring fault occurs, as it conducts electricity.
Installing foil faced insulation correctly requires careful consideration of the product’s design and the presence of dust. Insulationgo LTD provides informational and educational content, but does not assume responsibility for errors or omissions. The information should not be considered professional advice or a substitute for consulting experts. Before making any purchase decisions, it is recommended to contact the product manufacturer directly to verify details and suitability for specific needs.
Insulationgo LTD cannot be held liable for damages, losses, or inconveniences arising from the use or reliance on the information provided. This limitation of liability applies to all users of the blog, including visitors, readers, and subscribers.
📹 Does Reflectix Work? A quick review of Reflectix radiant Insulation
Is your attic too hot? Does Reflectix Insulation really lower the radiant heat? Will it actually reduce the temperature by 20 degrees?
Engineer here. It would have worked better if you stapled it to/between the rafters instead of where you did. Placing it right against the roof lets heat conduct through the foil, where a small air gap removes conduction, and lets the foil reflect the infrared heat back out the roof. Also pointing an infrared gun at the foil will not give you a reading of the foil. It will give you a reading of the infrared mostly reflected off the foil. Try putting soemthing like a lable on the foil and measure that. Or ust mease something in the room to get its temperature.
Are you really using an infrared thermometer to measure the temperature of a surface designed to reflect infrared ? You are just measuring the temperature of the room when you do that ahah! Also, taking the temperature of the metal that is behind the insulation and comparing it to the temperature of the insulation (even if it’s the actual temperature, not the IR thermometer reading) is not a good way to demonstrate the effectiveness of the insulation. The metal will be hotter than if there was no insulation because one one of its face is insulated and can’t radiate heat as much. You need to compare it to just bare metal.
You need a thermal flux sensor to measure how good it is properly. I’ve got most of an extension built 20 years ago covered in this and it’s useless compared to a decent thickness of PIR foam or similar. Alreflex 2L2 claims R value of 1.56m2K/W with a thickness of only 3mm. If this were true, it would make its thermal conductivity better than vacuum insulation which is just not credible and nigh on impossible.
Nice article !I have an 8 by 10 steel shed I was given and I is in nice shape ! It is like a torture chamber sweat box right now it is so hot !I was going to just take some single bubble foil roll like you have and liquid nails it right onto inside of shed ceiling .I do not see how it could not help..I don’t wanna pit a bunch of money into insulating it,just cool it down a little for stories by riding mower etc !
Unfortunately this doesn’t really show anything. Your IR thermometer will show lower temperatures on a shiny surfaces vs a dull darker surface even if those surfaces are the exact same temperature. You would be better off measuring ambient temp before the install, and then after the install on a similar day.
I’m coming back after a year of research and building. Last year there was no fiber glass to be had and I could not afford foam so I went with rolls of 100 ft long 4 ft wide reflectix. We have just been through a tough winter and when it was 17 degrees outside, with three 110 heaters it was 70 in the cabin. Last year I ran two old window units at 6000 BTU and one portable which made its own heat at 8000 BTU and with heat index of a 112, it was a comfortable 81 because the air was dry and I have a huge ceiling fan. This year I am upgrading my AC units and will install one with a remote control in the loft. I will come back and report next year. Reflectix for the win!!
Part of the insulating value comes from the “bubble wrap” and part from the radiant insulation of the aluminum layer. So far, so good. But one important note: In order for the radiant barrier to continue doing its thing, you cannot then wall up these rafters, with the sheetrock in contact with the aluminum layer. Tests have show that there must be a no contact with the aluminum layer for it to remain effective. Not sure what is the required size of this airspace, but you should be able to find it out.
Instead of throwing the old layer of R-19 out of my attic, I pushed it into the rafters (leaving an air gap) and secured it with reflective mylar film. Now I have two attic zones- the first carries air from the soffit to the ridge vent directly cooling the roof. The second space stays mild and is thermostatically vented by my 1.35 amp gable fan. Now that fan only runs two hours on hot days- saving $10 off my summer monthly power bill. This alone should pay off the new R30 insulation in ten years.
Yes it works as long as you have air movement. Our upstairs bedrooms would stay hot all night long from an overheated attic, even after adding more fiberglass insulation. After adding additional soffit vents and a ridge vent, then the aluminum / mylar raidant barrier the attic and upstairs bedrooms were much cooler. Easily 10ºF-20ºF. From Ohio, where it does get hot from June to September.
I been working on a article where I install 3/4″ closed cell insulation in my shed. There is roughly 45 degrees difference using my Fluke IR camera. I was suppose to finish the roof today but things came out. The insulation I used has a reflective barrier on each side. The 4×8 ft sheet was $21 and they have this locally at the time of purchase. I want to convert my shed to a solar power plant lol. I live in South Texas so cant use the shed or work bench in the summer heat.
No information on the effects of the reflected heat on the shingles. It HAS to heat those up more than normal and that can shorten the life of the shingles. Best treatment is a very well ventilated attic/crawl space. You want that air temperature to be as close to outside air temperature as you can get.
That rafter @ 0:02 is not properly spliced. This 1x4s should be extend a couple of feet past the crack. They are waaaay too short. If you are trying to keep heat out, add soffit vents and a ridge vent, and make sure to seal all of your seams with reflective tape. If you put drywall up tight against that Reflectix, you will lose a lot of the insulation value. Radiant barriers need a minimum air gap of 3/4″ inch. 1″ is better. There’s not much gain past 1″. youtube.com/watch?v=aU4q6RKaOQQ
dude that was awe some. now i see your date shows March 6, but is the attic heated or is there heat in the attic from the ground floor? was this showing the outside temperature? What climate are you living in? I am in Central Ontario Canada and have to replace a bad roof down to the deck and insulation. I have research foil and other types and ATTIC FOIL is the one from the US but the tariffs make it a lot more expensive. I am told i can lay it on the insulation or staple it to the trusses, whats you thoughts. Thanks for anything you can offer, nice to have real people point of view.
To get an accurate reading off of the infrared thermometer, you would need to put a Dark, non-shiny spot on the foil. IE, hit with a shot of flat black paint, or use one of the flat black stickers. Reading directly off of the foil, you could be reading a temperature, of the background reflected. I have an expensive Fluke Infrared thermometer, and the instructions explain this and how to correctly use the thermometer.
The infrared thermometer test is misleading because the back side of the radiant barrier is not going to have the same emissivity as the wood. For this reason, IR thermometers are not accurate at measuring the temperature of things that have different emissivity. (If you do a search on YouTube for “Emissivity demonstration” you will find many physics class demos explaining the concept. Shiny reflective surfaces do not emit IR as well, so the IR reading simply does not give a good indication of its temperature. Matte dark surfaces are the best at emitting IR for any temperature.) For an accurate test, you need a matte black sticker on the wood, and the same matte black sticker somewhere on the radiant barrier, and you need to do the IR reading on the sticker only. By comparing the IR reading off of the same kind of surface (one with good emissivity, where the IR reading most accurately tells its temperature) your IR thermometer reading will be accurate. If you don’t do this, the readings are misleading. For a good demo of this, you can get two paint cans, paint the surface of one matte black, and polish the other or tape foil tape on it so it is super shiny, then fill both with boiling water. After a minute or so, both cans should be at the temperature of the boiling water inside. Read both using the IR thermometer. You will get wildly different readings though a hand-test (feeling the can with your hand) will show you that the temperatures are the same. This is the clearest demonstration that IR readings only make meaningful comparisons if you read off of the same kind of surface, and if that surface is emissive enough where the IR reading gives a realistic indicator of the thing’s temperature.
thanks for the article. I was also suprised to find mostly 10 yr old articles by radiant salesmen on YT. I was also looking for info about RB vs insulation however with insulation you’d still have hot beams exposed. A co worker has a newer home and said it came with RB in attic which shows me it’s not snake oil. This will be my project next week before it gets hot