Most basic homeowners insurance plans do not cover electrical lines damaged from normal wear and tear. Therefore, it makes sense to get exterior electrical coverage to avoid paying hundreds of dollars for professional electricians for covered repairs. Exterior Electrical offers a highly customizable plan that saves money on individual systems and components related to utilities.
First Energy suggests purchasing insurance to protect your electrical equipment, but it is important to consider the monthly fee and the potential cost of replacing or repairing these pipes. Home Comfort covers major home electrical and plumbing systems, including interior and exterior gas lines, heating and cooling systems, and water heater repair.
Exterior Electrical Lines ($5.79/month) covers any short circuits and faulty electrical components running on the exterior of your home. For $4.99 per month, there is a $3,000 annual benefit, which includes multiple service calls per year. This plan covers the weather head, insulator, riser, meter base, and service entrance conductor.
FPL exterior electrical line coverage provides up to $3,000 for Exterior Electric Line, $1,000 for Exterior Low Voltage Line, $2,500 for Interior Electric Line, and $1,000 for Interior Low Voltage Line in annual coverage with no deductibles. These add-ons can be an excellent investment if you live in an area prone to storms, falling trees, or other risks that could damage the overhead power lines.
In summary, getting exterior electrical coverage is essential for homeowners to avoid paying hundreds of dollars for professional electricians for covered repairs. The insurance plan provides up to $3,000 in annual coverage and no deductibles, making it an excellent investment for those living in areas prone to storms, falling trees, or other risks that could damage overhead power lines.
📹 Why Not to Buy an Extended Car Warranty (Scam)
Extended car warranty scam. Why not to buy a extended warranty for your car. Extended warranty scam with Scotty Kilmer. Should …
What are the benefits of electrical protection?
Electrical Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) is essential for protecting workers from electrical hazards and ensuring a safe work environment. PPE includes insulated gloves, voltage-rated tools, flame-resistant clothing, arc flash suits, safety shoes with non-conductive soles, and insulating mats. These items help prevent burns, arc flashes, and electrical contact injuries. They also ensure compliance with safety regulations, reducing the severity of injuries in case of an electrical fault.
PPE acts as an additional layer of protection, reducing the likelihood of accidents and injuries. It is crucial to select the appropriate PPE based on the specific electrical hazards and voltage levels in the work environment. Essential types of PPE for electrical work include hard hats with electrical insulation properties to protect against falling objects, electrical shock, and impact hazards.
Why are electrical drawings important?
Electrical drafting services provide detailed, precise drawings that adhere to industry standards, ensuring the safety and functionality of your electrical system. These detailed plans outline component placement, wiring configuration, and connection points with crystal clarity, minimizing errors during installation and meeting safety codes. Electrical systems are the invisible backbone of any structure, powering everything from lighting to complex machinery.
Electrical drafting services create visual representations that make the intricate details of your electrical system readily understandable, guiding initial installation and serving as reference points for future maintenance and modifications. This includes complex building automation systems, allowing for efficient troubleshooting and future upgrades. The advantages of electrical drafting services extend beyond creating technical drawings, offering benefits beyond the creation of detailed plans.
What is included in electrical plan?
An electrical plan is comprised of a series of general and specialized electrical requirements, lighting systems, and an electrical distribution system. These elements are designed to meet the standards set forth by the industry, utilize proprietary electrical symbols, and comply with all applicable codes.
Does all exterior wiring need to be in conduit?
It is imperative that outdoor electrical wiring be protected from the detrimental effects of weather and sunlight conditions. Some cables are designed with the requisite protection measures built in; however, if this is not the case, additional protection must be provided through the use of a conduit or other suitable outdoor-specific protection measures.
Can electrical panel be on exterior wall?
McCarrick Electric offers expert installation services for electrical components, including outlets and breaker boxes. They can inspect your exterior breaker panel to ensure safety and efficiency. By installing a circuit breaker box outside your house, you can provide easier access for workers and emergency responders, and reduce the risk of fire caused by electrical faults or malfunctions. McCarrick Electric is committed to providing the best electrical services, so contact them today to ensure your electrical system is up to date and functioning properly.
What are the benefits of electrical plan?
An electrical plan is essential for ensuring the safety, efficiency, and smooth operation of a system. It identifies potential risks, allowing for swift amendments to prevent significant damage. The plan also saves time by avoiding delays and problems, preventing hazardous situations and allowing professionals to complete their work on time. It also saves money by avoiding unnecessary expenses and preventing injury by identifying potential areas that may harm technicians.
A well-drafted plan adds aesthetics and comfort to a building, incorporating fixtures, locations, cables, switches, and hardwired appliances. Drafting an electrical plan requires using software or graph paper to create a scale drawing of different rooms, including features like cabinets, counters, stoves, beds, and other symbols. Overall, an electrical plan is a valuable tool for ensuring the safety and efficiency of a building.
What is exterior electrical?
Exterior Electric refers to the electrical energy charges for common areas of the property outside the building. Building systems include mechanical, electrical, plumbing, sanitary, sprinkler, heating, ventilation, air conditioning, security, life-safety, elevator, and other service facilities. Landscape waste includes vegetable or plant waste, except garbage. Electrical cleaner is a product labeled to remove heavy soils from electrical equipment, including motors, armatures, relays, electric panels, or generators.
It does not include general purpose cleaners, degreasers, damping aids, energized electrical cleaners, pressurized gas dusters, engine degreasers, anti-static products, or products designed to clean electrical equipment casings or housings.
Can you run electrical in exterior walls?
AerosUSA is a leading provider of quality conduit for exterior wall installations, offering a range of products to protect electrical wires. Established by veterans, AerosUSA works with innovative manufacturers to provide the latest in cable protection technology to customers worldwide. Their product line includes braids and sleeves, cable entry systems, cable glands, cable guide chains, conduits, fittings and connectors, and accessories.
Braids and sleeves include general-purpose sleeves, EMC shielding sleeves, and sleeves for heavy-duty applications. Cable entry systems include accessories, splittable frames, and rectangular and circular entry plates. Cable glands include metallic, stainless steel, and synthetic options, as well as pressure balance, high temperature, strain relief, and specialty EMC cable glands. Cable guide chains offer flexible or hinged options and lightweight yet strong chain channels.
In addition to their product lines, AerosUSA also offers accessories such as adapters, support clamps, standard fittings, specialized fittings, and locking and sealing accessories.
What is the difference between PPE and IPE?
IPE, like personal protective equipment (PPE), is utilized to safeguard workers from energized conductors; however, it is not worn on the body.
What is the outside electrical panel called?
Breaker boxes are typically located near the electric meter, often on an exterior wall facing the street or in a designated utility area on your property. They may also be located on the side or rear of the house. Flipping the main breaker in your outside breaker box shuts off power to your entire house, which can be useful in emergencies, electrical work, or maintaining your electrical system. However, flipping the main breaker should be done cautiously and only when necessary, as turning off the breaker cuts power to all circuits, causing lights and appliances to lose power until they are turned back on.
What is the difference between IPE and PBC?
IPE (Information Produced by the Entity) and PBC (Provided by Client) are two types of evidence or documentation. IPE includes information produced by the entity and includes PBC evidence, which was provided by the client upon request. PBC refers to documents or evidence that were provided by the entity to auditors. IPE includes information used by the entity in its day-to-day operations, not specifically for audit purposes.
Documents without an “IPE” or “PBC” notation indicate that the auditor created the document. Managing IPE is challenging, but using modern Internal Control Management Software can help organizations streamline their IPE and prepare for SOX audits and beyond.
📹 Consumer Reports: Truth about extended vehicle warranties
Car buyers crave reliability. But even a trustworthy brand isn’t always enough. Some people want extra protection, from an …
⬇️Scotty’s Top DIY Tools: 1. Bluetooth Scan Tool: amzn.to/2nfvmaD 2. Cheap Scan Tool: amzn.to/2D8Tvae 3. Professional Socket Set: amzn.to/2Bzmccg 4. Wrench Set: amzn.to/2kmBaOU 5. No Charging Required Car Jump Starter: amzn.to/2CthnUU 6. Battery Pack Car Jump Starter: amzn.to/2nrc6qR ⬇️Things I used in this article: 1. The Truth 2. Common Sense 3. 4k Camera: amzn.to/2hZ4AxX 4. Mini Microphone: amzn.to/2newgV9 5. My computer for editing / uploading: amzn.to/2i2sKYz 6. article editing software: amzn.to/2jv5Fhf 7. Thumbnail software: amzn.to/2k7tz6C 🛠Check out my Garage to see what I use every day and highly recommend: amazon.com/shop/scottykilmer ❗️Check out the Scotty store: goo.gl/RwhRGU 👉Follow me on Instagram for the latest news, funnies, and exclusive info / pics: goo.gl/ohy2cA
Scotty’s not lying. I was ripped off by this scam and when ever I tried to get a repair the dealership (cherry hill nj dodge) just turned me away, it took me 3 yrs and 4 different dodge dealerships to finally get my fixed and it’s still not %100. Never buy 3rd party warranty and NEVER BUY DODGE! Corporate has not teeth against the dealerships. Sad the way business goes for the consumer in the US. Thanks for your articles Scotty!!! It’s always nice to find an honest person in a sea of bullshitters.
Good article, I used to sell cars back in the day and this is partially true. The dealership I worked at the profit from the warranties went to the finanace managers processing the deal. The salesman only made money on the gross profit of the car, which was 30% on a used car ($2000 gross meant the salesman made $600) which was the front end profit. The Back End Profit was made by the finance manager which includes profits on things like; Gap insurance, Warranties, Service Plans etc, and of course points held over their approved buy rate from the lender they choose. My advice to anyone buying a car is if its new don’t worry about an extended warranty. If its a well taken care of import (Honda, Toyota, Lexus, even Nissan and Infinity) with good records and miles don’t worry about a warranty either. I tell people to buy a warranty on only BMWs, Mercedes, Audis, large diesal and 4X4 trucks because they are expensive as hell to more than likely to break. Before walking in the dealerships do your homework!!!!!!! Get preapproved and shop rates and go to the dealership with it, if they can beat it great, if not use your preapproved loan. You can also shop around for warranties as well. Lots of insurance companies sell these and are sometimes cheaper than a dealership sells them for.
I have been a tech for 22 years, I also worked as a claims adjuster for an extended warranty company here in Tampa Bay *cough PMC cough*. Let me tell you first hand, these warranties are a complete rip off. I could go into details that would literally blow your mind, especially if you’re mechanically knowledgable. I worked there for 4 months and quit because I couldn’t sleep at night seeing how badly people were getting reamed up the bunghole. They target lower income people to begin with, lie about coverage and deny claims based on fine print technicalities. You have to have no soul to work for these companies. Stay the hell away from extended warranty companies, your shop will thank you as well. No one wins except the warranty company. If anyone wants to know the details, I can probably make a article explaining everything in depth.
Scotty is SO RIGHT ! i was a service manager and the dealership i worked for sold those ” OUTLAW ” warranties. I ran into SO MANY problems with these companies. I had to chase one around the country to find out they went bankrupt. Watch the wording on extended warranties. They say ” INTERNAL ENGINE AND TRANSMISSON “. If it is not inside the casings, they won’t pay. TRY TO APPEAL BEST OF LUCK. If you got to have one, buy one backed by the manufacturer of the car. Have a mechanic explain what it is you might be buying. IF IT IS A EUROPEAN CAR ( EVEN IF IT IS MADE IN AMERICA ) YEAH GET A CONTRACT, BUT HAVE IT EXPLAINED !
I bought a used Toyota Camry and they tried hard selling me a warranty, I offered polite no’s until the fifth time he asked me and then I told him to either shut up or I’m walking. His whole whole demeanor changed after that. He went from happy go lucky sales guy to sourpuss. Douche. Have never gone back to that dealer. Scott Clark’s in Charlotte.
I bought a policy from my dealer on a used car. I had a noisy valve that was fixed, a front bearing replaced, and a drive axle. I made my money back plus a whole lot more. When I went back to the dealer to buy a new car, I bought another extended warranty from them. Does it really matter how much the sales person makes if the warranty saves your butt from costly repairs? I myself recommend them if you buy from the dealer.
When I purchased my first new Toyota Camry back in 2002, the salesman tried to sell my an extended warranty. I told him, “you mean, you want me to pay for something that could fail on the car because it wasn’t built right in the first place?” His response was, “Oh, even our Toyota mechanics purchase extended warranties.” My response, “Well, now I’m wondering if I should purchase this car at all. Especially if your mechanics feel it’s necessary to get the extended warranty. Can’t be that good of a car if that’s the case!” The salesman never mentioned anymore about an extended warranty as he didn’t want to lose a sale. Never had any major issues with that car and traded it in on another Camry after 10 years and 245,000 miles.
I would like to share my experience with new cars and extended warranties: In June 2007, I brought my second new car, which was an 2008 Ford Taurus SEL. In 2010 after my 3 year bumper to bumper warranty expired, my display computer went out, along with my driver seat heater. I took it to the dealership service center who sold the car, and they told me it will cost $950, $650 for the display, and $300 for the seat heater. Many times I got mail from Ford about getting an extended warranty before it’s too late. I blew off getting one, and I paid the price. If I would have gotten one like for $2000 and something else went out, it might have been a good investment and paid for itself.
You’d have to be crazy to pay for one of these joke warrantees! A friend of mine just bought a used Nissan rogue and bragged about how she got a great deal from a sales person who was supposedly her friend. She said he gave her a great deal on the extended warranty too. I couldn’t believe she spent $1,200 extra on a warrantee when the factory warrantee was still in effect. I told her to look up reviews on extended warrantees and then tell me how good a friend this guy is. He might as well have been begging her to give him $600 out of her pocket. These warrantees are rarely honored when it comes time to get any major repair work done. There’s a very long list of complaints to the Better Business Bureau from customers who are getting screwed by Car Shield. These warrantees have fine print that gets them off the hook for covering most major repairs involving the engine, transmission, brakes, climate control system, and the computer system. This company will refuse coverage and leave your car sitting at the shop for weeks before you finally realize that any further attempts to get them to pay are futile. They won’t cover the repairs and they won’t pay for any rental car. They’ve crafted a warrantee document that almost without exception immunizes them from taking financial responsibility. There’s always some part that is found to be the cause of the damage that is specifically not covered in the contract. They’ve taken good care to make sure that they get your payments on time while never authorizing repairs.
Dad purchased one, but from the credit union for our 2004 Jeep Cherokee, 3 yr-36000 mi., so far we broke even on it, it paid for it’s self already. The transmission is starting to slip a little now, so now we may come out smelling like a rose. Note, buy a used Chrysler/Fiat product, go to your credit union and purchase a warranty, but NEVER purchase it from a dealer because they cost twice as much.
I bought a $4.00 keyboard from a computer store last year. Four dollars! And they didn’t just offer me an extended warranty for 75c extra, they pushed it. I said, “If, God forbid, the day should come when this keyboard fails, it’ll be painful, but I’ll just scrape together $4.00 and buy another one.”
I had both the sales and finance guys tag team me on the extended warranty once. I had to tell them at least 10 times I didn’t want it. But they just kept rolling through the different plans. When no to the platinum plan, they started talking about the gold plan. I say no to that, they started talking about the silver. I had to get angry and give them both a hard look and tell them very slowly. “I do not want an extended warranty. If you ask me again, I will walk out of this building.”
I worked for PMC (Protect My Car) down here in Clearwater FL, for about 6 months. Previously I’d been a tech for 22 years. 6 months was all I could take of ripping people off and denying claims based on complete bullshit. It was soul destroying. These companies prey on people who are lower income and have expensive cars. The worst part about it was, i worked with guys who seriously got off on denying claims and perusal people suffer. It was the worst job I’ve ever had, and it opened my eyes to a whole new side of humanity. People, these extended warranty companies are nothing but bullshit. Please take it from me, I’ve seen it first hand. Everything Scotty says is the truth.
Very true Scotty! When I went in to buy my first car roughly 3 years ago. They got me into the finance department and the guy thought he was slick! Little did he know I’m good with numbers and not to mention already on edge cuz it being a dealership. Anyways the finance offers me this really good extended warranty, tires paint correction, interior cleaning and so on. He tells me it will only cost me $23/month, no brainier right! Or so I thought. Well upon reprinting out the new agreement it did only jump up about $23/month like he stated but of course me overlooking the contract with a fine tooth comb again I notice not only did he add the extended warranty he tacked on another year of payments to go with it! And the asshole tried to tell me that I was over thinking it! He says “look it’s simple math $23 x the length of your loan (which was only 72 at first) is even a lil less than I qouted you”, “But I’ll take the loss since you’re a valued customer” lol. I said ya but the first contract had 72 months now this one’s says 84 months!?!? Wtf so a warranty that was $1,995 would have turned out to be $6k had I not caught it! Dirty bastards!!! Lol
I got a service contract for my Ducati from the dealer for $900 for 5 years. I used it a couple of times: new fuel sensor, engine MAF sensor. It covered $100 of the towing fee for the MAF too. Now at 29K miles it’s getting a new crankshaft and connecting rods because it chewed up the rod bearings. Probably $5-7k right there. And another tow, haha.
A warranty is basically an insurance policy INCASE something unexpected goes wrong. It’s not an investment where you are expecting a return. That’s up to you to decide if you want extra mileage on the car to be covered assuming it’s a good warranty. The last time I bought an extended car warranty for $1,000 it ended up saving me around $6,000 in unexpected repairs that happened after the standard warranty ended. O, by the way, it was a Toyota Highlander and it was a dealership extended warranty.
I learned the hard way these “warranties”(cars, or homes) have more excluded conditions than covered items. I once bought one one years ago I declined several times and the dealer finance guy dropped the cost about 45% QUICKLY so I think they still got a smaller commission. So buyers should negotiate a little as Nancy said: “Just say NO”. I never buy them.
Absolute truth here. The only thing more worthless than buying an extended warranty, is buying life insurance at the dealer. Two of life’s great rip-offs! Years ago my father died, insured to the hilt, and my mother wound up paying off a Cadillac. Same thing with my brother-in-law, left my sister a Mercury to pay off. They just don’t pay off on car dealer life insurance policies. Never gonna happen. The life insurance companies bankrupt every month. Bought a new RAV4 couple of years ago, great deal thru TrueCar, zero interest, then came the ordeal with the dealer finance manager. Top of the line warranty was over $6,000. Had to threaten to walk out to get the deal moving again. The Finance manager just sat there stonewalling, as if I was going to say, “well, OK”. I’ve been hustled at the dealer before, but that’s over. Sometimes, ya just gotta walk away.
I agree. Never buy a warranty for anything. Most items come with factory / manufacturer warranties. That is all you need. The extra warranties on cars, or electronics in the store, are a waste! Think of how often you use them? Think of all the receipts you must keep track of! It’s just a mess, and like Scotty said, they don’t even cover what you think they might! Best to never buy a warranty on anything. If you need to fix something, worry about it then, and pay for the repair with all the money you saved not buying pointless warranties on everything!
I’ve only ever bought one car brand new: my 2016 Mustang GT. I had to travel 8 hours to another dealership as it took me a while to find one that was willing to order a car for me as NOBODY had a Blue, Base GT Manual without those Recaro torture chamb…. I mean…. seats. Anyway, long story short – they didn’t pressure me at all! It was actually a fun experience. So, I was just about to leave and I’m still BS-ing with my salesman and I ask him “Hey, how come you guys didn’t try to push me into Scotch-Guarding the interior, or paint protection or undercoating or an extended warranty?” He puts his arm around me, smiles and says “That’s because we’re a reputable dealership.” I knew I’d made the right choice. My local Ford Dealer tried to bend me over for 9%, even though I’d been approved for Ford Financing AND have great credit.
For what I learned is that Japanese cars do not need extended warranty. Now German cars do. I own an Audi S5. I bought it with extended warranty through Fidelity… thank God. The Extended warranty cost me close to $4000. Now the car some issues that even when it was under their factory warranty, but their warranty wasn’t able to fully cover me for everything: cost of repairs were $3000. Right after the original warranty went out, the car started having very serious mechanical issues till now. Total expenses that I added so far are close to $12,000, and this car still has some problems. Audi gives me a loaner whenever the car has this issues but If i didnt have warranty I would have been left stranded asking for a ride, paying a tow truck, or paying out of pocket for this ridiculous expenses.
If you do buy the extended warranty, buy one thats backed by the manufacturer. Don’t buy a third party warranty. We’ve bought them with every car, even our 2014 Toyota Camry. We ended up using it to fix a suspension issue that would have cost close to $1700 otherwise. Very straightforward. Took it to the dealer, they took a look at it, and within a couple hours, the warranty covered everything, including a free loaner car.
For the first time I must wholeheartedly disagree with Scotty. Here’s why. An extended “warranty” is an insurance plan. Just like health or life or accident insurance. If you need it and don’t have it, you’re screwed. Always always always get the factory extended warranty, but never never never pay full price. Example: I was told by the finance manager at the dealer where I worked that the regular price on the top of the line extended warranty was $3500.00 but employee price was $1800.00. Sounds like a deal. But since I know that most sales people lie, I shopped around. I work in CA but found a dealer in Ohio selling that same exact factory plan online for $1200.00. I later was able to access the dealer price list and found out the plan costs the dealership $1000.00 from the factory. Employee price according to our handbook is supposed to be cost plus $200.00. So I bought the plan from the dealer in Ohio. With that plan I got rental car coverage whenever I had to take the car in for warranty repairs and later when the basic warranty ran out, it covered some really expensive repairs, including replacing worn out suspension components, some electronic gadgets, and at 145,000 miles the transmission got replaced. This is not an exception. I have many many hundreds of customers who were saved from super expensive repairs by their extended warranty. If you buy a Toyota, get the Toyota care plan, if you buy a Dodge then get the Chrysler service contract, if you get a Ford, buy the Ford E.
Bought a third party insurance for my wife’s car years back. Had an issue with the car, took it to a shop, they checked it out, don’t even remember what the problem was anymore. Showed em my policy, they called the company. Sorry sir not covered. Ok thx for stealing from me now cancel my policy effective immediately.
Extended warranties are a rip off. I used to sell cars and everything Scotty says about those”warranties” is true. We pushed those extended warranties because they greatly enhanced our commission. The company even does contests to sell more warranties. If we sold a certain amount of warranties, we got a bonus. Scotty is right on the money, no pun intended. Save your money.
I bought an extended warranty from the dealer on a used 2016 Ram 1500 Ecodiesel with 80,000 miles on it; within a month, the engine blew, due to a known defect with the cam sensor on that particular generation. I ended up with a brand new engine for $100. The warranty more than paid for itself with that repair. Glad I had it… (Oh, and the new engine is the next generation, without the known flaw.)
Yeah, bought a warranty from Chrysler when I bought my 1st new car . I had a problem with the car that was in the grey area of warranty and dealer refused to cover problem. I never went back to that dealer and my anger was later fueled when I met a big wig at Chrysler years later through my job . I told him what happened and he stated that the decision to repair under warranty was up to the dealer and that I basically got F___ked. He had a good laugh over my story. Yeah never again !
he speaks da TROOF! I bought a Toyota tacoma, 2010 for 7,000$ down here in Carolina. Had 78,000 miles right out of warranty. The monthly payments on a five year loan were $151.36/ mo for five years. Go to loan officer of the dealership where I purchased it, and he showed the options. the lowest price on the drive train warranty would bring the price up to $189. The highest one made it 271$/month. All I’ve had to do is change the oil filter, and the oil. tip: when purchasing a used vehicle from a dealership, if somethings not right like the tires, have em replace it! Thanks scotty, and I totally agree
I paid $3000 for a extended warranty on my mercedes. It paid for itself almost IMMEDIATELY. Over 3 years, I used $40,000, yes, $40k, which was the maximum I was allowed under the contract. Only a $100 deductible each service. Now, it’s been 70,000 later, my car has 130,000 miles, and I have had ZERO issues. Thank God for that warranty!!!
I agree. However my cousin got a extended warranty from endurance on his charger and it’s a good thing he did. That car had the most problems I’ve ever seen and he easily got back in repairs what he paid for the warranty. Surprisingly they never tried to deny a claim. Endurance is probably one of the best out there.
One of the few times I bought an extended warranty was for a computer article card. The policy stated that if there was anything wrong with the card I can just bring it in and swap with the same or a better version, no questions asked. Even though the card was fine, I took into the store just before the warranty expired and swapped it for a newer card. Got myself a better card for a fraction of the price. Winning!
Third Party Warranty companies are a complete ripoff – I had one and getting anything covered that was supposed to be under the policy was like pulling teeth. They wanted so much documentation it was silly. Now, I just bought a new 19 Chrysler 300 and bought the Mopar (Factory) Unlimited Mileage/Time Warranty (yes, Chrysler actually offers that). It will pay for itself over the 12-15 years I plan to keep the car with all the expensive electronics and plastic parts that will go bad over the years. For the $2500 I paid I will easily get back double that in the time I keep the car since it costs about $1K just to replace a module nowadays. That said, they aren’t always right for everyone. I think Scotty is oversimplifying it – new car warranties are a good deal if you are going to keep the car for awhile and may not have the cash on hand for these expensive repair bills. Used cars – forget about it like he said and my tale. I got an extended warranty on a brand new 07 Crown Vic when I bought it – it was a waste of money since the car was extremely reliable, but also didn’t have a ton of electronics and plastic crap that breaks all the time like modern cars do. Again, just have to pick and choose when it makes sense and when it doesn’t.
Thanks for the article. I bought a new 2017 Dodge Challenger last August and declined the extended warranty. A year has almost gone by and Mopar sent me a letter offering me to extend my warranty for 7yrs 75,000 miles for $1,500. Do you think this is worth it? I’ve thought about it since the car has a lot of electric components such as rear cameras, safety sensors, sound system, and the uconnect system / navigation system. the warranty is bumper to bumper covering mechanical and electronic issues only nothing aesthetic.
When I bought a new 1991 5.0 Mustang, the dealer told me I was crazy not to opt for the $800 extended warranty. The way he explained it to me had me thinking twice about buying the car in the first place as he said this and that would be breaking down. I declined the extended warranty and after putting 198k miles on it in 9 years, I only had to replace brakes, a water pump, and a throw out bearing. So, to heck with an extended warranty.
I recently bought a Toyota. I asked my friend to give me the best deal that he could (I estimate they made $500 selling me the car, after discount), I said no to all the extras, and he hooked me up with clear bra. and the best part was perusal how hard the finance manager tried to hide the fact that she was really pissed off at the deal lol
A car dealer with a brand name sold me an extended warranty. The car dealer kept the money and never sent it to the warranty company. Then the car lot went out of business. The brand headquarters said each branded used car lot is independently owned and operated so they could not even listen to the complaint, let alone do anything about it. I thought, what is the purpose of the car lot having a brand if everything is structured so that the brand association is meaningless. The purpose of it is to trick people into thinking that the brand means integrity is found here, when in fact the traits of the brand and the independent behavior of the car lot are divorced from one another
I sold cars for 11 years and I was the Finance guy who sold the warranties .. I can tell you the commission was excellent and the companies stood by their warranties .. when I left the car industry .. I always bought a used car warranty and used it on a 1999 Jaguar that needed timing chain tensioners .. a $9000.00 job.. I paid nothing. I still own the car today..
Brought a 2017 Ford Fusion sport fresh of the assembly-line in March with a warranty of 3 years or 35k miles; Now I’m at 9k miles and ford just keeps blowing up my phone about an “Extended Warranty”. Like damn, I can’t even get through a whole year of having the car before they start shoving down my throat another warranty. 🤦🏽♂️
Well done Scotty. I was an “analyst” for a bank that under writes these contracts. There is no such thing as an extended warranty. A warranty is a promise from a manufacturer. What you bought is a service contract between the dealer and yourself, even if the crooked salesman doesn’t present it that way. The service writers get grouchy too. They would say things like “I’m just the middle man” to the customer. No, JM&A is the middle man. JM&A is the middle man, the administrator of the contract.
You have to research before purchasing an extended warranty. Remember, not all warranty contracts are the same and they have budget plans and top tier plans. You need to find a plan that doesn’t take miles into consideration when a covered part fails. The aftermarket warranties that take miles into consideration are too inconsistent with coverage. You need to educate yourself and look over the terms of service and exclusions of any contract. I purchased a warranty online for my sedan which was roughly 58% cheaper than the dealership offered (same plan), and got my money back when the rear view camera failed 3 years later. I have another 3 1/2 years and 67,000 miles to go before the warranty expires. I bought a Honda Accord and the HondaCare warranty, and the camera was fixed the same day without a deductible. I understand a lot of your viewers may not price shop for a service plan, but encouraging them not to purchase a warranty contract isn’t doing them favors if they rely on others to fix their equipment.
I have to say my extended warranty experience was actually very positive. After I bought my 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP back in September 2003, I was receiving letters in the mail about getting an extended warranty and so I decided to respond to one (and this was before I became a mechanic lol). So I signed up with a company I believe they were called National Warranty at the time and had been in business for a while. I paid 1800 dollars for a 3 year 100,000 mile policy whichever came first, I would never reach 100k since I bought my car with only 33.5k in it though the previous owner had abused this car…so there ended up being a lot of repairs and boy am I glad I bought this policy hehehehe. The company ended up paying by the end of the 3 years over 3600 dollars in payouts for warranty work!!!!! On top of that when my car was in repair at the dealership they would loan me a car so I got to drive a Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder convertible for an entire week, a Chevrolet Colorado, and a Corvette C5 as well, for free since it was all covered under the warranty!!!! Over 10 years later I’m now a mechanic and have the skills necessary to keep my Grand Prix going as long as I live, and I have the extended warranty to thank for giving me peace of mind while I got into mechanics. So you can have a great extended warranty experience you just have to research the company backing your vehicle and know some history around your vehicle and you’re going to be the beneficiary believe me!!! I also want to add that if you can get an extended warranty through your bank/credit union that’s ideal since the bank is now on the hook for recommending the warranty/insurance company to you.
Excellent advice, Scotty. I always knew any extended warrantee is a scam designed to benefit the store or car dealership. Your advice to save money on the side for repairs can come from what you would have paid for the premiums. Cars are indeed machines and machines age and break down. The only solution is replace the broken and worn out parts–not pay for an insurance policy that won’t be there for you when you need it.
I’ve purchased Ford ESP wrap around extended warranties for all of my Ford vehicles, Honda wrap around warranties for my Honda vehicles and same with my Subaru WRX and my 2014 GMC Yukon Denali. Regarding the Honda, I never needed it so that was not money well spent, but I don’t have a crystal ball and couldn’t foresee future problems or lack of regarding my 2012 Honda Accord. I know people who have had their share of problems with them and could have used the extended warranty. However, the Ford ESP extended warranties for my 2014 Expedition, 2015 Fusion Titanium and 2016 Mustang I feel was the right move for me personally. One service on my 2014 Expedition paid for the warranty. I don’t care who received the commission on the extended, as I have a zero deductible on all my Ford ESP’s and the repair would have cost me more than I paid for the Ford ESP warranty. So for me, that was money well spent. I always purchase the extended warranties just before the factory warranty expires unless I’m going to trade the vehicle. As said, I don’t have a crystal ball that foretells the future. With technology these days, repairs are extremely costly after the 3/36 factory warranty. On a four-wheel drive SUV like my Expedition and my Yukon, a single repair could cost an owner in excess of $1,000. It’s a personal choice.
Extended warranties aren’t so bad. Just make sure they’re dealer direct and you’re good. If you plan on not buying a new car anytime soon, the extended warranty helps with the costly electrical repairs down the road. Powertrain generally lasts on a Honda or a Toyota, but electrical issues, warranty will cover those hundreds and thousands of dollars worth of replacements or repair work. I keep my cars for 15+ years so extended warranty is nice to have.
I had a third party extended warranty on a Subaru WRX STI. Paid $2400 for the warranty… Blew the engine up (as all STI’s like to), 5,000 km beyond OEM power train warranty. Covered an $18,500 shop bill for a full new engine, labor, and other components the shop recommended replaced. In the end I pitched in an extra $500 for a clutch while the car was apart to save myself labour, otherwise cost me nothing outside of a $100 deductible. You need to make sure you are making informed decisions on what is and is not covered, if the third party company is reputable, even ask the service department what the third party company is like to deal with for warranty claims. It’s just like anything else you purchase… Be smart about it. Its a case by case situation. I worked in a dealer and every used STI we sold, we recommended warranty to and every one of them came back blown up and used that warranty. While commission to the salesperson/finance manager is NOT 50% but profit is close to 50% of the price (sales person gets a portion of the profits) and it is very often negotiable (depending if it is the manufacturer warranty or third party).
I bought extended warranty for both my Mazda’s (from Mazda) and the dealer I work with they are good about it. I got new engine mounts on my 2012 Mazda 3 with 150,000km because I want happy about a small bump from the one on the firewall getting a little old. At least with Mazda and the dealerships I dealt with I always get any little issue fixed, best $1200 I ever spent. The dealer I use is by my work, I live 90km from work so when there is any job that’s over 2 hours I get a free loaner or rental because I have the extended warranty, it just charged out to Mazda. Also my wife’s CX5 has unlimited milage warranty for 5 years from Mazda but we got the extended because base is 3 years bumper to bumper and 5 years power train, the extended warranty gives almost bumper to bumper for 5 years. So if a sun roof craps out or one of the safety sensors I don’t worry. But yeah I would NEVER buy 3rd party warranty. Manufacture or bust. Over all I feel at least on my Mazda3 I got my money’s worth, and that was only up to 160,000km. We driver a lot in my house, we commute far so $1,200 for 5 years of peace of mind is worth it. It’s about $240 a year which isn’t bad if you need something that costs a few hundred plus labour replaced after 4 years.
My husband and I got an extended warranty on our car, after going over the fine print as closely as we could.. We’ve benefitted greatly from it, our claims have been more than the insurance cost and they’ve never fought us/our mechanic in a claim yet either 🤷 we still have a few years left on it too 😂
Doesn’t Toyota own the record by a fucking longshot as far as recall figures are concerned among the big Japanese makers? Not customer satisfaction recalls either, it’s all things that will kill you if not taken care of. Spontaneously exploding airbags due to contracting the lowest bidder, stuck throttles, resulting in the inability to stop a moving vehicle. Those two earned alone them their notoriety. But as far as Scotty is concerned, they are the only manufacturer that hasn’t made their cars cheaper over the years.
both cars I bought the extended warranty both paid for themselves, but you have got to do your homework, look into it and don’t jump on everyone the salesmen throw at you, the first one I got almost the same coverage for half the cost of the dealer offer, the other was a dealer offer, but if you took it to them, they would waive the deductible about 150. so, look around and compare
I’m gonna throw this in here. I bought a 2012 Chrysler 300 SRT8 with 62,200 miles on March 23rd of 2018 and added a 4yr 100,000mi extended warranty to it for around $2300 which was divided into my scheduled payments. Three days after I bought the car, I found out the engine was going bad (the rod bearings went poof so there was a lot of knocking going on), and the starter also died for some reason. I called the warranty company, they towed the car to an actual nearby Chrysler/Dodge dealership for free, the car was diagnosed, some paperwork was sent to me to sign, and the warranty company approved the repairs to the car. The dealer’s cost of a new long block assembly alone was $13,500 for the 6.4L Hemi V8 engine my car has. The starter was $400ish. These prices did NOT include labor to replace the engine and starter. I payed a small $100 deductible and that was it. My car was fixed and put back on the road for exactly $100 out of my pocket and $2400 total when you factor in the total cost of the warranty. I think it was VERY well worth paying that $2300 in my case. I’m sure there are some legitimate extended warranties out there and I believe I found one company that provides exactly that.
Always buy the extended warranty. Always will. From the dealer. I have used them when I would not of been able to have the money at the time. My contract states the things it won’t cover in plain sight. Mostly maintenance items. Even Toyotas break. Can you afford major repairs a day after the warranty goes out? It is insurance, and piece of mind.
Bought a brand new 2015 Sonata basically, At 58thou km’s. Took care of it for 2 years, oil, etc myself. Just had the engine seize on me 2 days ago. Fully covered under my premium extended warranty which only costs $600 on too of what you pay for the car. So yeah brand new engine for free, and a rental covered fully until my car is done. Hyundai is pretty good with their extended warrantys I won’t lie. (My car came from Quebec, the first driver clearly drove like a maniac) Lol
Please listen to this man when near the end if this article, he advises you to just Save some money, knowing repairs will always come up. Years ago l bought an extended warranty. Don’t remember the exact cost but it was never used and if l had just saved what the warranty cost, l would have broken even at worst. Amazing how people who purchase a new car are talked into buying one, when their car is covered for what, 4 years or 40,000 miles, anyway? Save your money! Also, when buying a NEW car, why the salesman pushes an extended warranty when you’re already covered under the new car one?
Vehicles aren’t made well anymore. I negotiated a lower extended warranty cost, from the dealer, when we purchased our Subaru, because I don’t trust manufacturers… even reputable ones. Being able to understand full language, or close to it, is paramount. With one door motor that went bad, the warranty almost paid for itself.
#1 – Only one guarantee when buying a car, ANY CAR… it will have some type of mechanical failure at some point. Cars are complicated and have many moving mechanical as well as non-moving highly technical parts. Please leave an example of vehicles with no mechanical breakdown or recall history of any kind in the comments below if you disagree. #2 – Yes, there are bad warranty companies out there but that doesn’t mean that ALL warranty companies are bad and don’t honor claims. Just like there are good and bad in every other industry. An industry professional saying that all (or at least most) extended warranties are scams is not only inaccurate, coming from a mechanic, it’s also irresponsible. Please feel free to contact our friend Scotty here if you chose not to buy a warranty based on his (or anyone else’s) advice and your car has experienced an inevitable mechanical failure, I’m sure he’d love to be the one to get paid for fixing it! And if the advice came from someone other than Scotty and who doesn’t happen to be a mechanic, I’m sure they would love to help you pay for it. #3 – Warranties are like Insurance policies, nobody believes they need one UNTIL THEY ACTUALLY NEED ONE. Yes, Warranty companies price their products based on risk and yes, they plan on being profitable. Please feel free to list companies and industries where profit is of no concern and not required for company sustainability. #4 – Salespeople get paid a commission when they sell you a warranty. Ummmm yeah.
I have to disagree with you on this one. I purchased a Zurich warranty on my wife’s car which is a 2013 Nissan Rogue. I have never used warranty for over 4 years but now the vehicle has 65000 miles and I have a few problems that have occurred and the warranty has backed me 100%. I paid $1,300 for the warranty and I have only used it three times and it has paid for itself. So I think the warranty should be left up to the individual because most Vehicles only come with a 3-year 36000 bumper to bumper and some offer 5-year 60000 mile Powertrain. But most people don’t realize that the powertrain warranty does not cover your air conditioning alternator water pump Etc
Just got one of these sales people actually calling me…..it’s not enough that they stuff my mailbox every other month with these “Urgent” envelops with “Last Chance” written on them. She sounded like it was urgent, and then when I asked her what she has listed as my car, she says “Toyota” which was right, then I asked her what make it was and she couldn’t answer. It’s a feckin’ scam. I told her “You don’t even have a clue, do you?. If your going to scam someone you have to get all the information correct. Also, you can’t sound like a whiney California valley girl if you want to be taken seriously. Bye.” Hung up.
Most people just jump into the comment section saying how warranty saved them and how Scotty is wrong. The dude said you don’t need a warranty on cars like Toyota. However, you NEED a warranty when you buy the WRONG car. So if you ended up having to replace your transmission within your first 3 months of owning the car it doesn’t take a genius to figure you bought the wrong car. To each his own. I was at the auction the other day to buy a car, it was either a Ford Edge with a significantly low milage vs. a toyota venza with 220K mileage. I went with the venza. Only thing I have had to replace is the suspension which is to be expected from high mileage vehicles. I also bought a Kia Forte Koup – BLOODY MISTAKE . Passing it off to whoever brings any cash for the POS brand with low milage.
Home warranties are the same. Got one when I bought my house and they wouldn’t cover my water heater. It was heating, but only luke warm, but they said since it was heating there was nothing they would do. On top of it they charged me a $60 service charge that I never paid. My friends A/C went out and they still had to pay for a new one, it only covered repairs, not a replacement.
Agreed. I bought the extended Warranty on my used Mercedes and passed on the offer by Toyota on the wife’s minivan. Toyota went hard trying to sell me on it claiming how expensive it would be to fix it if something went wrong and Mercedes was like are you sure(We are reliable)…lol. I was sure and it paid off. Loved that Merc though. Happy to see the back of it now as I have moved on to my next vehicle.
I agree with you. And my relative bought one from the dealer on a 2012 Toyota RAV4. Within one year, she already used it to replace the bad struts and a leaking seal on the transmission. So far that means she’s come out ahead. Course on that generation RAV4 Toyota had so many issues with the rear suspension, like 3 recalls.
My 1st mistake was buying a pre-owned Jaguar 2012 Supercharged V8 Portfolio Edition. I actually was smart enough to not purchase the warranty at the dealership when I bought the car. I then looked for a warranty company on line and found an affordable policy I didn’t have to pay upfront on They financed out the payment at $48 per month. The 1st problem was a water pump at $1,400 the warranty covered about 1/2 due to many of the items required we’re not covered. Hose’s, o’rings an additional pipe etc. The shop accepted the warranty and I paid out of pocket for the rest. Then the computer went out. It was $2,000 at Rusnick Jaguar for that alone. While at Rusnick they went through the car bumper to bumper and nit picked the car until they found $12,000 in required repairs including the motor mounts and transmission mount. After keeping my car for 3 1/2 weeks. The warranty company denied ALL claims. I don’t blame them for that and agree Rusnick Jaguar of Pasadena tried to defraud them on many items that didn’t need replacing. I then to the car to my regular shop and we went through the list that Rusnick submitted and with the exception of the motor and transmission mounts nothing was wrong. I contacted the warranty company in regards to them and was told by a woman that NONE of the items on the list from Rusnick would be covered. Then the fuel pump went out. I it was towed to my regular shop. They refused to accept the car unless I would guarantee payment as the warranty company Delta Auto Protect had never paid the 1/2 of the bill for the water pump.
Bought a 3rd party extended warranty in 2009, it said if the warranty was not used during its term they would provide a 100% refund of the purchase price. So when the window regulator went, I paid for it out of pocket. Anything small I paid out of pocket, saved the warranty for the engine or transmission. The term expired, I wrote them the letter asking for the refund and they sent the check the next month!
I understand. I’m thinking about buying one through my Credit Union (where I’m going to finance) for a older Tesla with 50K mi. It’s $5,000 but covers the car for the life of the loan (72mo). It doesn’t cover batteries but hoping it pays for its self over 5-7yrs I’ll own it. Thoughts anyone? Suggestions? :face-blue-smiling::hand-pink-waving:
Sorry but Scotty is simply wrong. Is he referring to the extended Mopar warrannty that costs like 2K for a total of 8 years full coverage. Is he stating that Chrysler will not stand behind that? That is some serious accusations here. Is he stating that Geico as a third party won’t stand behind their policy? Can someone explain what this is all about? Because 5 extra years full coverage for $2K is a pretty awesome deal! Anything besides wear and tear is covered plus trip interruption plus first day rental. If you get the Jeep Wave for $150 I think a year you get 2 oil changes and 2 tire rotations per year! I mean seriously all this is somehow not a good deal???
Current car salesman here. Everything you said is 100% BS except the point of the warranty not being worth it in MOST cases. If I got paid 50% of the cost of the warranty I would’ve retired a decade ago. Everything in this article was not very sound advice from someone who claims to be “sponsored by the truth”.
Bought an aftermarket warranty after searching online. 1 year after buying my Audi SQ5…It needed a new engine. Warranty company paid for it $28k!!! So HE’LL YES they work! The key is to take it the dealer and let them handle it! They cannot argue with the company that makes the car…they lose!!!! Take it to an independent mechanic and they will take you for a ride because they won’t pay until they tear down the car!!
Omg! I was almost to felt on this scam! I received. Formal letter with my car imformation Model, my name saying that my car warranty is almost about to expired and I had only two more days to buy extended warranty. Agter talking5 minutes with the” representative” I felt that he was pushing me yo give a down payment asking me with card Im goinh tonuaed toll I tell them ” Go scam your mom! 😂
. For those contemplating an Extended Warrantee or Protection coverage like “CAR SHIELD,” Avoiding auto repair bills, let me share with you the plan my Wife and I have: With our plan, there is NEVER a Monthly payment or Deductible. It is only necessary to make a monthly payment after repairs have been performed. After 6 monthly payments, You are good to go, until you need another repair!… This plan also covers Frequent Oil changes and new tires! It will cover “High-Mileage Vehicles, no limit! Sounds too good to be true, Right?…😃 Easy-peasy!! Just apply for an account with Firestone or any other shop of your choice….. Why in the hell are folks getting talked in to buying repair insurance on their cars? Looks like a “slippery slope” to me…
I agree that most car extended warranties are worthless. But here is my story- Bought a brand new 2012 Honda Civic Si. I paid $1500 for their “Honda Care” extended warranty (which is a 7 year plan). After about 25,000 miles my clutch started making an awful squealing noise letting off in 1st gear from a stop. (After researching I found out that every single 2012 Civic Si came with a defective clutch and they all squealed.) The dealer started playing games with me and blamed me for the clutch issue. I opened a corporate case with Honda and the Honda Case Manager also wouldn’t cover a new clutch replacement($2000). When the case manager for Honda learned that I had the “Honda Care” extended warranty and that I was essentially double covered (factory warranty plus extended warranty), and that I wasn’t backing down with my demands for a new clutch free of charge. They finally approved a free clutch replacement. I also used the “Honda Care” warranty several times for a free battery jump over the years. Now in 2019 my civic is paid off and I still have a few months left of my “Honda Care” warranty. Although I 100% agree that extended warranties are a scam, I am ultimately glad that I bought the Honda Care extended warranty. Now my 2012 Civic is paid off and I am happy with my car. Of course the 2012 Civic Si is perhaps the worst civic ever made and you will not see barely any of them left on the road. But I am an exception and driving mine with zero problems now. Love the articles! Cheers!
My wife has always said this. Never buy the extended warranty. When I bought my motorcycle (Yamaha), I inquired about the extended warranty. The dealer straight up looked at me and said, you won’t need it. 28k later, not a single issue with the bike. I know it’s not a car, but you get what I’m saying
Everyones first complaint with an extended warranty is that the dealership is making money off of it. YES. Car dealerships in America aren’t non profit organizations. Walmart sure rips me off when I buy that $499 Samsung tv. Too much profit. Definitely not a fair point. However, there are extended warranty companies that have bad coverage and customer service. Always read the fine lines and reviews. People also think that just because their 2001 Toyota didn’t break down for 150,000 miles means that buying a 2019 Toyota with 5 times the electronics will be the same. Thats great you didn’t use that extended warranty last time. Ive never had any massive medical or hospital bills in my 24 years. Does that mean I don’t need health insurance?
This is true. All are a scam – Carshield, eDurance, Ox and all the rest. They are the ‘clunker’ type of warranties to avoid all together. If buying a car, buy a brand new car with at least a 100Kmile/10year manufacturer warranty or a preused car that is still under manufacturers warranty and extend it to at least a 100,000 miles and 10 years.
I still get letters from a company telling me my factory warranty has expired and I should buy extended coverage from them and they use the usual scare tactics of repair costs in the thousands blah.. blah..blah. Funny thing is…I traded that car over 2 YEARS AGO!! 🤣 Those letters make great bird cage liners though. 😁
I think manufacturers warranty are pretty good. It has to be the manufacturers! . I bought an extended warranty on my Ford Fusion energi through Ford Motor Company The warranty was 2k and I’ve had over 5k in warranty repairs done to the vehicle. It’s been worth it to me. The car is 3 years old and has 48k miles. I have coverage with premium care up to 144k miles! Up to 8 years past the original bumper to bumper warranty!
This is general research. There is a lot in the details. For example I have negotiated 35% of the price of one. Also, if you consider one make sure it’s the manufacturer offered one and not a third party. If you buy from the dealership tell them you service your car there and they may negotiate more.
Well the problem with you logic is…1. The warranty relies on the employee to sell their product which in turns puts food on the salespersons table. Would you like it if I told you going to a mechanic isn’t worth it? Secondly, the Retail price of the warranty is what your cancellations are based on when you trade it in, not the commission rate. 3 With the cost of transmissions and engines these days the warranty pays for itself. 4. Lastly the customer is in our best interest as a dealership. We want return customers. Some might scam people but the good ones don’t!
The car dealership finance guy is the most skilled salesman at the dealership. Everything they try to sell you is straight profit to the dealership. My F&I guy tried to sell me all these extra Ford warranty plans, tire plans, and GAP and presented them like he was offering fatherly advice and ended the pitch with “Here are the ones I’d go with.” You can research their sales tactics right here on You Tube. I spent a couple hours on them before I walked in the dealership.
Extended Warranty’s only kick in when something BREAKS DOWN. If you have a trustworthy mechanic who looks after things BEFORE Break Down occurs your “Warranty” won’t pay off anything. Say, for example, you notice a Clunking at the front drivers tire area; your mechanic tells you that the tie rod end needs to be replaced. “Not Covered”; it didn’t BREAK. So, for the warranty to pay you have to let it break, tow it to an area mechanic you don’t know from Adam and wait a week or more for your “Warranty” company to decide whether to cover a portion of the cost. So, you’re going down the highway at 65mph and the tie rod breaks, your front tire goes horizontal. Are you alive to make a claim? Timing Belts are another Warranty Trap. Routine Maintenance is not covered and these belts should be replaced every 100-120k miles. If it Breaks and you’re going 65mph on the highway, consider your engine toast. Most warranty companies won’t cover the cost of a new engine because “you didn’t maintain the old one”; and Maintenance is not covered. (BTW, Timing Belt replacement can cost $1200 and up)
I see a lot of people with mixed feelings in the comments, so let me rectify the argument here. If you’re thinking about going along with the pushy salesman, at the very least, do your due diligence and ask for more information so you aren’t buying with zero idea of what’s actually covered, and don’t take the salesman’s word for it, they probably know the least about it, they’re just good at making you think they know by speaking with confidence even through a flat out lie. Find out what company offered this extended warranty, call them up and ask what’s covered, and research for yourself (don’t ask the company) how long they’ve been in business. Generally if the company has been around for less than 5 years, it’s a risky place to have your money invested because the first 5 years of a company will generally tell you if they’re sticking around or not. The longer the company has been there, the more safe you should be from them suddenly disappearing off the face of the earth. And if, at the end of your investigating, you find it to be a bet you’re willing to take, by all means buy the extended warranty, but don’t let some car salesman whispering sweet nothings in your ear, be the reason you bought it.
even if you buy it your screwed, for instance you will be bound to only using them for service and let’s say you are late getting a scheduled service check and then later your transmission fails, they will say they can’t help as stated in the “agreement” as you failed to get your service on time. SCAM CITY!
Ahhh maaaannnn……saw this article too late. Got a used ’16 Chrysler town & country from the local Chevy dealership for the wife and booomm…..payed for the extended warranty to the tune of $3800. Sun visor went kaput and asked them to fix it and guess what …..not covered by their warranty. I’m a gearhead and I personally drive a 1996 suburban that I love and work on/pay to work on and I went back to that salesman and told him “not only did you miss out on me buying a brand new suburban but I have 22 children (5 kids, 17 grandkids that follow what I say like it is law) that were waiting to see how you treated me on the sale”. He had that “oh crap, what have I done” look on his face trying to clean up his mess.
Our shop just had car shield deny a claim for a rear main seal leaking. Equinox with a 2.4, these are well known to have the pcv freeze up in cold weather. Then the crankcase pressure pops out the seal. They denied the repair because GM has a SERVICE BULLETIN for this concern. Bulletins are for techs, to help with diagnosis, not for insurance claims. What a bunch of thieves!
I just bought a Honda. They tried to sell me an extended warranty to cover just the engine and transmission. For four years it cost $4000.00. That’s right – FOUR thousand dollars for FOUR years – one thousand dollars a year. As Scotty said, put that money in the bank. The place I used to work owned a small fleet. They got the extended warranty on one of the trucks we drove. It was bumper-to-bumper coverage. After the factory warranty expired, the driver’s side door wouldn’t close right, so we took it in to get it fixed. When we went to get the truck they gave us a bill. They said the warranty only covered repairs. They didn’t repair the door, they only adjusted it. That was the last truck my boss bought from that place.
Scotty just started perusal your articles and love them. However i am gonna have to disagree with you on this. I bought a warranty on a used vehicle i bought, blew the trans while we were on vacation and they covered everything quickly. As anything you have to do your research on the companies. I know if i buy another used vehicle i will definitely buy another warrenty. You can talk the reps down too, they originally told me $3400 for the warrenty for 5 years, i got it for $1800 and worth every penny.
Never buy an extended warranty from a 3rd party. You can buy most OEM extended warranties online at a huge discount. I purchased a Ford extended warranty for $1700 and used it twice on my diesel truck. The repairs were over 6k and covered entirely by the warranty minus a $50 deductible. So I partially agree and disagree with Scotty. For my Japanese commuter car..no extended warranty. My late model diesel truck? Absolutely but the OEM extended warranty online about half the cost the dealer wants. Extended warranties are worth if you negotiate or buy it online at a discount. I never buy anything from the finance guy.
I got my Connect fixt 3 times i email with ford back an forward unless 20 emails and they left me hanging they want me to go 4th time on service . i lost 2 months and i was fired from work (cant work with no van) cannot sue them no money for that but i want Everybody to know Ford looks like made in China when you need them or there warranty they do not honor warranty who you pay for! that was me …..maybe you are lucky.