A hip roof is a roofing style that requires all four exterior walls to support the ends of roof rafters, resulting in all exterior walls bearing a weight load from the roof above them. Interior load-bearing walls may also support the roof as they do in gable roof designs.
A house with a hip roof structure suggests that all exterior walls bear walls, and any wall on all floors, directly above or parallel to a basement beam, typically bears walls. Hip roofs can be entirely self-supporting over short spans, but extra support members are needed when the span stretches over longer lengths, usually for lengths over 12 feet.
Load-bearing walls can present challenges for homeowners looking to open up adjacent rooms or enjoy open-plan living. However, it is important to note that interior walls that run perpendicular to the run of floor joists above and below are almost always load-bearing walls.
In single story truss homes usually don’t have interior load-bearing walls. If the home has a hip roof design, all the exterior walls are bearing the weight of the rafters and there will also be a center bearing wall. It sounds like it could work, but it is crucial to ensure that the ridge beam can handle the load of the roof and the floor below.
📹 Identify load bearing walls in single floor structures
In this video I explain how to identify a wall as load bearing or non load bearing in a single story structure.
Do hip rafters carry load?
The International Residential Code (IRC) requires that at valleys and hips, there must be a valley or hip rafter with a nominal thickness of 2 inches and a depth of at least 2 inches. Hip and valley rafters must be supported at the ridge by a bric or designed to carry and distribute the load at that point. In areas with a roof pitch of less than three units in 12 units horizontal (25-percent slope), structural members supporting rafters and ceiling joists, such as ridge beams, hips, and valleys, must be designed as beams.
The behavior and code requirements of a hip beam are similar to a non-structural ridge board, as they typically function as a nailing board between opposing jack rafters. However, at lower slopes, this behavior tends to break down, and the hip must be designed and constructed as a structural beam. The minimum thickness and depth requirements ensure the hip beam can function as a proper nailing board and provide sufficient bearing on opposing sides.
Is a hip roof self-supporting?
Hip roofs are self-bracing, reliable, and durable, ideal for new property structures. They have simple construction and better resistance to high winds, making them ideal for windy regions or shingled roofs. Gable roofs are less costly to build and offer more attic space due to only two of the four attic walls slope inward. Both types offer unique advantages in terms of durability and cost-effectiveness.
How do I know if my interior wall is load bearing?
To determine if a wall is load-bearing, look at the direction of the ceiling joists. If the joists run perpendicular (90 degrees) to the wall, it is load-bearing, as it bears the weight of the ceiling joists. If the joists run parallel to the wall, it may not be load-bearing. However, if a single joist rests on the wall, it could still be load-bearing. If there are two parallel joists on either side, they likely rely on blocking to transfer their load to the wall.
To identify this, look for small boards connecting the two joists. If joists are unavailable, use a stud finder to locate them in the ceiling. Mark the edges of multiple joists on both sides of the room to determine their direction.
What are the structural members of a hip roof?
A hipped roof is a type of roof structure that relies on a roof truss, consisting of parallel rafters attached to masonry and battens for roofing. The roof truss can be made of timber, steel, or precast concrete beams. It is often fitted with thermal and acoustic insulation to maintain proper thermal conditions and protect against external noise. Other elements like skylights or dormers can be added to the roof for additional natural light or space. The hipped roof’s shape effectively drains rainwater, and its waterproofing depends on the quality of the roof structure and the correct installation of expansion joints and seals.
Is there an advantage to a hip roof?
Hip roofs are ideal for adverse weather conditions due to their self-bracing nature, making homes safer from storms and rough weather. They require less support and offer strength and stability due to their complex slopes, providing resistance against hurricanes, typhoons, and snowstorms. Hip roofs also provide drainage benefits, as they slope towards the ground, preventing stagnant water from creating excess stress and increasing leaks. This design also provides more ventilation and space for attics.
Stability and aesthetics are also significant benefits of hip roofs. Their slanted design creates wind resistance, reducing property damage from strong winds. This is particularly useful for residents in hurricane-prone areas. Hip roofs also provide a functional aesthetic, with their slopes offering great design detail and a classic and elegant look. Overall, hip roofs offer a reliable and efficient solution for homeowners facing adverse weather conditions.
How to tell if a downstairs wall is load-bearing in the UK?
A load-bearing wall is a structure that supports the weight of a load, such as a car or truck. It is typically perpendicular to the floor joists, but if it runs at a 90-degree angle, it is likely load-bearing. A load-bearing wall runs straight through the home, has a wall directly above it, and is lined with OSB (oriented strand boards), a material used to strengthen structures. A foundation beneath the wall is also a sign of load-bearing. If there is another wall or support directly under the wall, it is likely load-bearing.
Stairs themselves cannot be load-bearing, but the walls surrounding them can. To determine if a wall is load-bearing, check for the signs mentioned above and have your house inspected by a professional.
Which internal walls are load-bearing?
A load-bearing wall is a structure that supports the weight of a load, such as a car or truck. It is typically perpendicular to the floor joists, but if it runs at a 90-degree angle, it is likely load-bearing. A load-bearing wall runs straight through the home, has a wall directly above it, and is lined with OSB (oriented strand boards), a material used to strengthen structures. A foundation beneath the wall is also a sign of load-bearing. If there is another wall or support directly under the wall, it is likely load-bearing.
Stairs themselves cannot be load-bearing, but the walls surrounding them can. To determine if a wall is load-bearing, check for the signs mentioned above and have your house inspected by a professional.
Do hip roof houses have load-bearing walls?
Two-story homes with gable roofs typically have structural walls parallel to the house’s length and the front and rear walls. However, a house with a hip roof structure indicates all exterior walls are bearing walls. Any wall directly above or parallel to a basement beam, typically wood, steel I-beam, or a basement wall, must be considered load-bearing. Stair well openings are also load-bearing points. Understanding the house’s original construction and local building practices can help identify load-bearing points.
An on-site assessment by a building professional is crucial before starting a remodeling project. When in doubt, contact a Design Build Home Remodeling Company. It is best to be cautious and consider every wall as load-bearing until confirmed by a professional.
How much weight can a hip roof hold?
The building code typically sets minimum standards for roof load-bearing capacity, with residential roofs able to hold a minimum of 20 pounds per square foot and top out at 100 pounds per square foot. As long as the roof’s weight capacity is not exceeded, it can safely hold your weight and allow you to safely walk across the surface. However, factors like age, weathering, and newer roofing materials can affect the weight capacity, causing more stress on the surface.
What are three disadvantages of a hip roof?
A hip roof may be fitted with gutters on all sides of a property; however, this option is more costly and may result in a slightly higher incidence of leaks due to the presence of seams. It is imperative that the installation of these gutters be conducted by a skilled professional to guarantee that all components are securely fastened.
What are the disadvantages of a hip roof?
Hip roofs are more expensive due to their complexity and the need for more roofing materials. Gable roofs, on the other hand, are less expensive due to their smaller roof planes and lower cost of roofing material. Gable roofs can be outfitted with gable vents, which can help reduce humidity and maintain a healthy home. However, they require more siding material. Proper ventilation is crucial for maintaining a healthy home and roof, and proper vents can help to escape excess moisture. Overall, the choice between a hip and gable roof depends on the specific needs and budget of the homeowner.
📹 How to Identify and Remove a Load Bearing Wall | Ask This Old House
Tom Silva explains what load bearing walls are, how to identify them, and what needs to be done in order to safely remove them.
Thank you so. Much Sir. This is a relief, a great relief to me. I have seen a bunch of articles on this same title and how to remove a load bearing wall and replace it with a beam. But non of them really mentioned about the natures and the makes of the roof whether it would stand on itself allowing you to do changes on the walls under. Thank you so much again.
OOOPS. Both of these are TRUSS Rafters. Just one is an Engineered Truss. The other is just a three point Truss. (design). The term Truss is just not understood. And don’t get me started on what a gert is ~ and purlins. But of course all good here. At least this is thought about . For me it’s the snow load. Can the roof handle two feet of wet snow? or a Hurricane? How about dormers through the roof? Never heard of a “stiff back.” That’s a fun concept. Ok Fair enough. Thanks for this.
I have a question about cape cod style houses go. On deed it says 1.8 floors. Upstairs has 2 finished bedrooms with approx 4 ft knee walls and nothing in between. First floor ceiling joists butt up against eachother with wall directly below and steel beam in basement the entire length of house. But wall on other half of first floor is offset approx 3ft. I am not sure what style truss are in the attic but house was built in 1942 and im not sure that type of truss was available back then. Because there is 2 bedrooms upstairs im assuming that the walls below would be load bearing, especially in snowy area. Thanks for the great article and any information you may have on these style houses would be greatly appreciated.
Great explanation article Tim, thank you. I watched a bunch of articles and yours was the first that got right to the point and didn’t get caught up in every outlier scenario like basements and second stories etc. So my 24′ x 72′ rectangle shaped house with modern trusses (across the short dimension) with the W web and gussets could literally be emptied of all interior walls right? I just want to remove one kitchen wall that ends abruptly at the end of the kitchen.
Thanks so much! I recently purchased an old, 1946 house with rafters that initially did not have any bracing besides collar ties. It looks like they added purlin bracing later and I think it’s caused some drywall cracking and sagging. In the case where you don’t have load bearing internal walls, but still need to add support to prevent a sagging roof, what should I do? I know theoretically that the continuous joists should distribute that load to the exterior walls, but there been some obvious deflection where the bracing was added. Patch drywall and move on?
Hello, I have a 1978 split level house with a manufactured truss (same shape as your article) gable roof. Since it has a basement, does same principals apply? The living room has a 2 ft jut out on long side of house if that matter? The wall going is going perpendicular to the trusses and isn’t in the direct center of house.
That truss supporting interior wall you state is not bearing a load load actually bears a load since it supports the beam above it since the beam above it deflects downward due to the loads from the two truss members it supports. Removing that wall removes the bearing it provides and that causes the beam above it to deflect downward.