The 2018 International Residential Code (IRC) section on fireblocking outlines the requirements for fire-proofing in combustible construction. Fireblocking is used to prevent fires from spreading within wall cavities, which are typically created by creating a barrier within the walls, floors, and ceilings of a home. It is required to span horizontally between exterior walls and vertically from the building ground floor slab to 30 inches above the roof deck.
Firestops are essential in modern residential home design to prevent fire from moving too easily up a wall to the room above or into another area of the house. Fireblocking strategies vary depending on the location of the fire. Without fire blocking, a soffit provides a path for fire to spread from a wall cavity to the joist bays above. There are several ways to fire block an area, including extending from exterior wall to exterior wall, between floors, top stories, roof or attic spaces, furred spaces, cavities between studs in wall assemblies, connections between horizontal and vertical spaces created in floor joists or trusses, soffits, drop or cove ceilings, combustible exterior wall finishes, and more.
Soffits on exterior walls usually aren’t a technical problem as the wall cavities are typically filled with fiberglass-batt insulation. However, it is unlikely to be required by code and may not be necessary for an exterior wall that will contain insulation. Fireblocking must be provided in wood-framed construction in concealed spaces of stud walls and partitions, and on exterior walls taller than 8 feet, they must be layed out so that the exterior wall sheathing catches them at the edge.
Holes and gaps in wall and ceiling cavities allow fires to spread rapidly and allow airflow to feed a fire.
📹 What Is Fire Blocking?
You’ll notice fire blocking here, this is at the eight foot level. They’ve just begun, in this home, putting this in. This house isn’t …
📹 Wall Framing Blocking – House Framing Tips
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These Mid-Span-Blocks are called Noggins in Australia and they must be used to stop the frame wall from moving left or right due to the the weight of the roof and high wind even if brick is layered on the outside and also use two, 2 foot long blocks at Intersections between rooms and corners and use 2.8 to 3.0 mm Galvanised Framing Nails to stop corrosion.
I have a task and I can’t solve it because if I put the blocking in stag style it turns out that when I put the plywood they don’t match, they only match one yes and the other no, I’m talking about the joints. In one the blocking holds the plywood in the other no longer stays inside the plywood, I’ll be doing it right ?
Does blocking exterior walls, floor/ceiling joists increase strength or load-bearing capacity significantly enough to justify their use? How does a structure with blocking compare to an identical structure without blocking? Also, is it true that all exterior walls are essentially load-bearing walls since they all must support each other?