ABS is a versatile and widely used material in plumbing and piping systems, particularly for exterior applications, underground, extreme cold, and areas not exposed to direct sunlight. It is commonly used in drain, waste, and vent (DWV) piping systems, as it protects automotive exteriors from sunlight and UV radiation damage. ABS’s lightweight design allows for easy fabrication and meets aesthetic requirements for automotive exteriors.
The San Francisco Building Code inspector allows ABS exposed pipes to be used outdoors as long as they are coated with UV-protected paint. However, the material is susceptible to degradation when exposed to sunlight and UV radiation, leading to discoloration and brittleness over time. ABS plastic is a common choice in the automotive industry for interior and exterior components such as dashboards, bumpers, and trim.
ABS plastic casing can be used in the production of mechanical equipment and general parts, such as water tanks, exterior shells, electrical cabinets, battery tanks, gear bearings, and pumps. ABS plastic is widely used in the automotive industry for various applications due to its high impact resistance.
However, while ABS sheets can be utilized outdoors due to their inherent weather resistance and durability, careful consideration of environmental factors and proper coating are necessary. Better alternatives for outdoor use include PETG and ASA. ABS can be used outdoors if the pipe contains pigments to shield against ultraviolet radiation, or jurisdictions may require the pipe to be coated with UV-protected paint.
In conclusion, ABS plastic is generally considered safe for outdoor use due to its lack of harmful chemicals and resistance to UV rays. However, it is important to consider environmental factors and proper coating when using ABS pipes in DWV applications.
📹 Pros & Cons of ABS Pipe!
0:00 – Intro 0:00 – What is ABS pipe? 1:02 – Pros of ABS pipe? 1:16 – What are the cons of ABS pipe? 1:39 – What are the best …
Why is ABS pipe no longer used?
ABS Pipe is illegal in some areas, such as California, due to its weakened state due to recycling or grinding plastic resin. This has caused pipe fatigue and failure, making it less durable than previously thought. Despite this, many homes still use ABS pipes in their drains and sewer lines, and unless there’s a problem, there’s no reason to switch to PVC. However, when parts need replacement or in new installations, PVC should be used. Contact your city or county agency to determine if ABS pipe is illegal in your location.
Can ABS be exposed to sunlight?
It is inadvisable to expose ABS piping to direct sunlight, except in the case of water-based synthetic latex-protected piping situated no more than one foot from a vertical surface. In order to safeguard ABS and PVC piping from the detrimental effects of sunlight, it is imperative that they be protected by water-based latex paints. It is recommended that steel pipes be installed in an underground location and at a depth of six inches aboveground. It is imperative that ABS and PVC DWV piping installations adhere to the following specifications:
Will ABS crack in cold weather?
Cold weather poses a significant threat to pipes, particularly copper pipes, which can crack. ABS pipes, made of ABS plastic, can withstand temperatures below 32 degrees Fahrenheit without causing damage. They are more durable than other materials, with a lifespan of 50 years. ABS plastic is lightweight, making it easier to handle and install. It is also shock-resistant, able to withstand minor earthquakes without breaking. ABS plastic sheets are used in creating garden and landscaping structures like planters, pergolas, and gazebos. They are moisture-resistant, making them ideal for outdoor planters.
How long does ABS pipe last outside?
Sewer lines transport wastewater from inside a home to the main line. They are typically made of PVC or ABS pipes, with PVC being more flexible and stronger. Older neighborhoods may have cast iron, clay, or Orangeburg pipes, with cast iron lasting 75-100 years and clay 50-60 years. Orangeburg pipes typically last less than 50 years. Issues with sewer lines include sewage backup, slow drains, lush green grass near the septic tank, and foul smells. Faucets in hard water, which contains minerals, can also accumulate, increasing the risk of premature failure. Regular maintenance can extend the service life of faucets.
Is ABS weather resistant?
ABS plastics, often modified with UV stabilizers, do not exhibit significant weather resistance due to their brittleness and color loss when exposed to UV rays. However, they are often the best choice for outdoor applications requiring high weather resistance. Polypropylene (PP) plastics are generally more weather-resistant than ABS plastics, maintaining strength and durability better when exposed to the elements.
PP plastics can be equipped with UV stabilizers to increase their weather resistance, but are often better suited for outdoor applications due to their natural resistance to UV radiation and moisture.
PP plastics are commonly used in garden furniture and other outdoor applications where weather resistance is crucial. Weather-resistant plastics are used in various industries, including construction, automotive, garden and landscape design, electronics, and shipbuilding.
Why is ABS illegal?
ABS pipe that does not meet ASTM requirements may crack and leak wastewater within a decade or less, causing structural damage, vermin infestation, and severe health hazards for residents or occupants of buildings. ABS pipe is commonly used in residential construction and has been installed in the foundations and walls of thousands of single-family homes, apartments, condominiums, and other residences throughout California.
The American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) has established specifications for the manufacture of ABS pipe, including a requirement that ABS pipe be made from virgin plastic resin. These specifications are incorporated into the Uniform Plumbing Code (UPC) and apply to all occupancies throughout the state.
Is ABS OK in sunlight?
PVC piping is generally resistant to weather due to its softer material and flexibility, making it suitable for hot climates. ABS, on the other hand, is prone to damage in direct sunlight or hot climates and can warp if temperatures rise too high. However, its rigid solidity makes it ideal for cold weather, lasting through freezing temperatures without damage. PVC piping is more susceptible to damage from very low temperatures due to its softer nature. Whipple Plumbing offers skilled installation services for both PVC and ABS pipes.
Can ABS be outside?
ABS, a plastic filament, can yellow over time due to its low UV resistance. However, it’s important to keep your creations away from sunlight to avoid yellowing. ASA, a UV-resistant filament, is similar to ABS but is suitable for outdoor use. For example, car parts require excellent resistance to sunlight, rain, and snow. TPE, a recyclable thermoplastic, has exceptional properties, allowing them to stay in direct sunlight and other outdoor conditions year-round.
Its rubber-like qualities make it water-resistant, making it a popular choice for printing due to its reusable and flexible properties. It’s essential to consider the sunlight exposure before printing to ensure the best results.
Is ABS ok for outdoor use?
ABS polymer is a durable, cost-effective, and non-toxic plastic ideal for outdoor use, particularly in colder regions. It offers structural stability, durability, resistance to corrosion, impact, and UV radiation, and can be recycled for eco-friendly use. Inplex offers custom plastic components for outdoor use, including flexible, semi-rigid, and rigid plastic tubing extrusions, water distribution system elements, automotive parts, pavement markers, signposts, snow poles, and oil and gas bushings. ABS can also be used in automotive parts, pavement markers, signposts, snow poles, and oil and gas bushings.
Can ABS be used outside?
Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) is typically utilized for indoor plumbing applications, whereas acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS) is well-suited for outdoor and underground plumbing. ABS pipes are typically black in color and composed of acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS), a material commonly utilized for drainage, sewage, and vent applications. PVC pipes, composed of polyvinyl chloride, are typically white or light-colored and possess enhanced flexibility, rendering them well-suited for a diverse array of applications.
Is ABS plastic good for outdoor use?
ABS is a versatile thermoplastic used in outdoor plastic items due to its ability to withstand rain, storms, and winds. However, it requires proper protection from UV rays and extreme weather conditions to prolong its life. ABS’s low production costs make it cost-effective for producing prototypes and preview models. Recently, it has become a key player in 3D printing, as it is readily available and can be easily molded to create desired shapes. ABS can also be electroplated for additional options.
Advantages of ABS include reasonable production costs, its sturdy, aesthetically pleasing structure, its ability to withstand multiple heating and cooling cycles, its versatility in color and surface texture options, its lightweight nature, low heat and electricity conductivity, excellent impact resistance, and reliable shock absorption. 3D printers are becoming increasingly popular in various industries, including manufacturers, educational institutes, and home-based businesses.
📹 10 MISTAKES When Working With Plastic Pipes (PVC, CPVC & ABS) | GOT2LEARN
Watch this BEFORE plumbing PVC, CPVC or ABS, you won’t regret it!! Join my plumbing forum for FREE!
Nice, helpful article my brother. Thanks 🙏 for this. I’m a novice at best. But we recently had a plumbing emergency at my father’s and were unable to afford the pros, so, they got stuck with me. And the only plumbing I’ve done was as a landscaper/irrigation systems. The guy who showed me how to do it was a plumber before and said everything you did word for word pretty much (about 1/4 turns, not taking too long after cementing/drying etc) I showed my father this article so he wouldn’t think i was being “fussy”. I learned early in my subcontracting adventures to always heed the voice(s) of Industry Standards. They’re standards for a reason While of course the most obvious, desirable thing to do is always consult professionals in any trade for such things, articles like this can be a life saver for those who simply can’t afford to. THANKS again bro. Great website man
Using the right size jar of primer and glue for the size of the pipe you’re working on. The larger jars come with larger dobbers which work perfect for larger diameter pipe. Same thing with the smaller jars for smaller pipe. It’s not absolutely necessary to do it that way, but it does make the application of the primer and glue easier and it makes the job go that much smoother.
Dear brother, I would like to congratulate you for posting such a wonderful article for free. DIY is my passion, I like plumbering, electrical wiring and so on. Mistake number 5 was that attracted my attention the most regarding the use of a handsaw instead of an old blade from a cutter as you knew one plumber who accidentally lost an eye. Some 12 years ago I learnt from the Internet that the most common accident of DIY/amateurs is their eyes. Indeed I learnt something new from your article, hence I will take my precautions next time I shall be doing plumbering. Once again I heartily thank you for this wonderful article.
I had a few comments. I’ll start with #7 you never thread a plastic FIP on to a metal MIP. you only thread a plastic MIP onto a metal fip. Metal expands at a different rate than plastic, having metal threads inside of plastic can crack the plastic. (it’s UPC plumbing code). #5 ABS is still legal in most municipalities, it is actually legal for tankless venting too. You have to use solid core ABS not foam core, but that is exactly the same for PVC too. Also it is recommended by the manufacturers of CPVC to use cutters on smaller CPVC so that you get a straight cut, no shavings inside the pipe. You don’t have to bevel smaller CTS size cpvc, only larger IPS cpvc, cts cpvc is thinner in wall thickness, IPS cpvc is thicker wall thickness. #1 primer, you technically do not have to prime cpvc flow gard gold, the yellow glue has primer built in. Now if you are gluing cts flow gard gold transition fittings to IPS corizan cpvc then you must use primer and the orange glue.. Good information on the article.
Thank you for the very nicely made article. I knew most of them but still picked up a few and refreshed my knowledge before tackling another DIY project. I always use primer when there is one to go with the cement. But some glues (made by Oatey and/or some other brands) are just one-step. I don’t think they leave the primer out. Guess they just mix the cement and primer and put them in a same container. My PVC glue had both primer and Cement, but the recent Oatey CPVC cement I got does not have a sperate primer.
As a licensed plumber (not always an indicator of someone who knows what they are doing) I wish to state this alternate method to the method of using pipe dope instead of Teflon tape on plastic female threads; never use female plastic fittings over metal male fittings. They crack, leak or both. Instead use male plastic threads inside female metal threads. No leaks, cracks or call backs. In fact I wouldn’t recommend plastic female threads over male plastic threads either.
With Oatey Fusion cement, there is no need to prime your pipes and fittings. It is one-step. As far as applying cement to both sides as opposed to 1, that can be an issue, but almost never is in non-pressurized lines like condensate drains. A good twist of the pipe is usually sufficient in these situtations. ABS should be made obsolete. Over time, you can run into pinhole leaks with it. PVC ratchet cutters are fine when you know what you’re doing, especially on newer pipe which doesn’t usually crack with cutters. Your suggestion of using a hacksaw is preferred with older more-brittle PVC that tends to crack easily. It isn’t necessary when dealing with new pipe/fittings. However, I can usually cut older pipe with these without cracking because the right ‘touch’ can be given in most situations.
All these tips have I learned myself over the years. Glad to see you put them all together here for others. A portable chop saw will cut the PVC pipe square with minimal burr and is easy, especially good if your project is large or has many turns and bends to glue together. A saber saw is also helpful in cutting 4 – 6 inch pipe.
A few of things I learned when using the purple primer. First, lay cardboard on the floor below the area you are working if you don’t want permanent stains on the floor. Second, the applicator in the can holds a lot of primer when using. Before you remove the applicator completely from the can, tap it on the can’s ridge so some of the excess liquid drips off. Lastly, when applying the primer to the pipe, angle the pipe with the end you are applying primer slanted down. If you don’t you will find excess primer may run down the pipe leaving a purple streak. It won’t hurt anything, but it makes for amateur appearance.
I prefer to prime both surfaces, while only applying an abundance of glue on the male end. Gluing the female side forces glue inside the pipe and fitting during insertion. An adequate amount of evenly applied glue on the male end, inserted with a twist, creates a perfectly fine, leak free joint, without the nasty tasting glue getting on the inside, which also creates a point in the system more likely to form a clog.
I’ve always dry fit first and marked my depths and matching angles using a yellow marker. Always ream the pipe to remove the burrs, otherwise that’s where your drain blockages will start, weeks or months later, at first with just with a single hair. And then that hair will accumulate a second hair, and so on ….
I researched this on a plumbing forum once. Pro plumbers are mostly adamant that you must use primer except for about 1/4 of them don’t use it for many many years and never got call backs. Eventually I found some testing done by some agency. Primer did NOT clearly win on strength tests. At some point in time, primer free was stronger.
Number 11: Never put your grinder down like that (tip 8). You risk damaging the floor, table etc… Or on hard surfaces like concrete the grinder could skid away, potentially causing injury or damage. Every grinder ever made has a raised lip on the back, that’s what it’s there for. You can see it right next to the red strip on this grinder.
Very thorough.. few people that work with these materials know all these things! Regarding #8 (deburring) pretty easy to do with a utility knife sliding backwards around the rim (the material is so soft, the knife cuts it in reverse).. and also, don’t forget to debur the inside of the pipe too, for a smooth interior.
Here is another lesson in working with PVC, if you are grafting into a PVC pipe that has been exposed to direct Sun light for a year or more always use some sand paper on the older pipe or fittings. Trying to glue old pipe to new pipe can sometimes not bond very well at the glued connection. If you sand the older pipe and fittings just enough you break the glaze off it will bond allot easier with the new PVC.
Thanks for posting this. Our trade, like so many others is dying. I was a 12 plus year plumbing apprenticeship program teacher. Mike Rowe talks about on his podcast that only 2 plumbers are entering our field for every 5 who retire over the last ten years. Also, I always say if you must go from say threaded brass or black to PVC or CPVC, I try to make the plastic be the male fitting, as to better protect against stretching or splitting. Thanks again for this my plumbing brother. I’m entering my 37th year as a Registered Master
You can also improve the covering of the glue by applying the glue on the pipe and inside the fitting with an opposite direction. So, let’s say you circle around the pipe and stripe the inside of the fitting in its longitudinal direction. This will create a surface on both ends which will make the chemical bond perform way better than the 1/4 circle turn. Turning a freshly glued pvc connection can also lead to leaks, by squashing out the glue from the capillary cavity it sits in, at the critical point of just before become ‘hand’ dry. Here in Europe, the turning action isn’t recommended. Also, priming is only mandatory for pvc pressure lines. For small sewage lines, from appliances to standpipe, I wouldn’t prefer primer with European pvc. Good clean pipe ends and the mentioned glue method will do the job to get an excellent glue joint. From standpipe and lower, I prefer rubber lip-ring fittings. No glueing. Or most preferred of all mirror welded High Density Poly Ethylene (HDPE), which is way stronger than pvc. Doesn’t deteriorate. Doesn’t break because of its thermoplastic characteristics. Is also way smoother on the inside compared to pvc and certainly abs. Especially in kitchen facilities.
Not using primer ??? That’s common sense when working with PVC. I’m glad I payed attention when reading the instructions. I plumbed my whole house 20 years ago. I just replaced most PVCdue to corrosion. I have a cistern well and I upgraded the pump, pressure tank, and check valve. I did hire a well specialist to upgrade the system itself. Afterwards I replaced the 30 gallon hot water heater with an electric instant on water heater. My electric bill dropped over $50.00 a month once the system was repaired.
Rather different to here in the UK where a solvent cement is used on PVC lines. I’ve not seen a primer use, and on PVC (and ABS) pipes a thixotropic combined solvent cement is used on both surfaces and which basically dissolves the surfaces and welds it all together. That said, I’ve never personally worked on welding pipes bigger than 50mm (or 2 inches) except for bosses connecting to 110 mm (4.3 inch) soil pipe.
Hello, I need to replace galvanized garage sink piping and thought about using CPVC, ordered the fittings and in pre fit they are easily pushed all the way in and removed with little friction. Is that normal for CPVC 3/4″? What are your suggestions, 10′ distance, elbows and so on to utility sink. Thank You
One thing missed about glue, after making a connection, doing the twist and hold, also wipe the excess off from the pipe, as the excess will soften and weaken the pipe wall just beyond the fitting if left to sit, and over time the pressure can pop a pinhole leak in the pipe itself just before it meets the fitting.
when connecting cpvc or pvc to copper I always use female copper and male cpvc or pvc.. This reduces the chance of cracking from over tightening vs the reverse shown in the article. This is more important on hot water as there are differences in expansion. Genova also makes hot water transition unions that are cpyc on one end and female brass on the other. I’ve only seen these in 1/2″ but assume there are larger sizes. When connecting to the male fittings of a water heater, use a brass coupling between the heater nipple and the male cpvc/pvc.
great vid, im 6 months in to an apprenticeship and the journeyman i work with never uses primer on venting for tankless heaters. he says you don’t have to since it’s just venting, but like you said in the article the primer is what allows for the chemical bond to take place. thoughts on using only cement on venting?
A little trick I learned from one of my coworkers is that when working with PVC on DWV applications, a fittings hub depth is half it’s diameter. So putting a 4″ 45 fitting on requires an insertion depth of the 4″ pipe to be 2″ into the fitting. Also means you only need to prime about 2″ back, allows for a cleaner application and looks nicer too.
Tip: Most PVC pipes are very sensitive to sunlight (UV light). That’s another reason to keep them indoors. If you must use PVC outdoors, look for a UV-resistant PVC or just simply paint the PVC after it’s been cemented and tested for leaks. Just keep in mind that if you need to add a new fitting you will have to remove the paint first so that the cement can properly join the PVC.
Lol. I’ve been gluing pvc and cpvc since it’s beginning. Primer, no primer, it doesn’t make one bit of difference. For over 40 years, I’ve never…never had a call back, leak, failed pipe joint…ever. that said, I do use the proper TYPE of glue for each type of pipe. I do not use CPVC anymore as they get brittle over time. Use PEX. No glue, no chemicals.
I have found that it is a good idea to occasionally sharpen the blade on a PVC cutter which really helps and also instead of just just squeezing the handles just squeeze enough to snug the blade to the pipe and then score the pipe a little bit by rotating the cutter a little before finishing the cut. I have noticed much less cracking which I only really notice on older PVC pipe.
I’ve yet in the numerous time’s I’ve watched individual’s working with pvc pipe. Ever seen anyone ever put anything but what you refer to as “PRIMER”. Only putting the blue stuff on both pieces, inserting one into the other and twisting it some 90 and back. Perhaps, there’s a brand in which the cement is blue, and one doesn’t utilize the blue primer. Which then could be the issue.
Cutting the pipe straight is vitally important. Apply a heavy even coat of cement to the pipe and a medium coat to the fitting socket. If the pipe is 1 1/4″ or larger, apply a second heavy even coat to the pipe. Too much cement applied in the fitting socket will be scraped out and into the next fitting or pipe. Not good! Wipe excess cement on the outside. Threaded female fittings break because they’re too tight. He’s correct about not applying too much tape but only tighten FINGER tight and no more than two additional turns. NEVER use pipe dope and tape together. PVC and CPVC have no UV resistance so prolonged exposure to sun will make it brittle. Cold is only a problem when it’s cold.
At 5:55 – A safer way to do a transition from PVC/CPVC to copper is to use a male adapter on the PVC/CPVC pipe and female adapter for the copper/brass/steel pipe. Plastic is very prone to cracking because of expansion and contraction with temperature. A plastic female adapter on a metal male thread is very prone to splitting.
I used to use the primer, but then I saw numerous primer vs. no primer tests of PVC joints, and in every case the joint without the primer performed at least as good and usually better than the joint with the primer. If it’s required by code use the primer, but otherwise it’s pointless and potentially very messy, that purple primer will stain anything.
i don’t agree with using the paste on plastic threads. while the tape does make it thicker, the paste acts as too good of a lubricant and makes it easy for someone to over-tighten because it does not get the normal amount of resistance when tight. also i recommended to use ‘banded female’ whenever possible. they do cost more but significantly reduce future issues. sometimes its best to use a brass/galv coupling and then a plastic male when going onto a copper/brass male. we have run into alot of split pvc female adapters at water meteres
Great article, learned a lot! Maybe you can help me with some questions regarding mistakes when using copper pipes. Or if there’s a article, you can help me out with a link? As we know, copper is more a basic metal (no idea of the correct term) than iron, that’s why it’s used as sacrificial anodes on ships. So having iron splinter in copper pipes is causing leakages pretty fast, ist’s like they are “melting” through the copper. I heared, that even the content of the angle grinder discs might cause iron particles in the pipes, and even a iron saw can cause splinters or dust etc. What’s the safest way to cut these pipes without causing iron inside? Thank you in advance
You got a new sub here! as a total newbie who still done these repairs over the yrs when I had to, I gotta admit to making alot of mistakes after perusal this… Very Needed info if ur gonna do this kind of work..luckily, even with the mistakes, the joints Ive done have held but Knowing this info will make for a much better result in the future, thanks!
I use Oatey Fusion 1-step for PVC. Using primer is an outdated modal, goes back to earlier PVC plumbing manufacturing processes where cement alone couldn’t reliably bond due to the hardness of the skin of PVC pipes and fixtures. Purple primer everywhere looks sloppy and if you are doing repairs in somebody’s finished house you run the risk of stains on surfaces. For commercial work with inspections it only needed because somebody needs to justify their existence. Some jurisdictions allow clear primer, a grudging step in the right direction. One step cements are well known in CPVC use, though mostly forgotten in the last 20 years as it has fallen out of favor.
One more tip to avoid trouble when selling your house due to failed inspection. Most counties and cities require you to use purple primer so they can see that primer had been used, a few however require clear primer so if they see purple they know a licensed plumber did not do the work, the vast majority require purple so check your local codes before doing the work. I lived in St. Louis County and they required clear but St. Louis City which is not in any county required purple as well as all the surrounding counties.
Thanks for the article. I always learn something new! Heck, been ‘learning’ for twenty years. lol I do have a question, however; I was taught the “rule of thumb” when transitioning from metal to plastic, the metal should be a female adapter, and the male is plastic. It avoids the crack as shown in the # 7 mistake. Even when using pipe joint compound, you can inadvertently over-tighten the plastic female adapter without knowing you’ve stressed it. Were you taught that as well?
Purple primer is also good for double checking your work, easy to see. Fittings and pipe don’t fuse, I have chipped off fittings for repairs from pic a lot of times, with a success rate of 99.9% .If they fused you couldn’t chip it off. Curing? Don’t have time for it to cure when a customer is waiting for water or plumbing in pool pumps, the most I’ve ever waited is 5 minutes, usually less. I just did a 3 inch back flow valve preventer to city water to a school yesterday and waited 5 minutes, it’s fine, just have to do it right. You’re right though, those micro cracks suck, especially when you have to jackhammer a hole in someones brand new pool or deck to fix it. I’ve always just used my fingers to de-burr the pipe, works fine.
i’m from europe and i used acetone and paper napkin instead of primer for PVC-UH for the bottom drain under my concrete koi pond. I did deburr the 110 mm pipe and i used proper cement but i’m not sure if i turned the joint right after joining toghether but i used alot of cement . The presure is under 0.2 barr .Do you think i’ll have any problem with leaks?
Some additional deburring tips: drag a razor knife along the outer edge of the pipe to quickly debur or for an even simpler debur simply use the cut ends of the pipe itself as a grinding stone to debur. Hold 1 pipe firmly and rotate the outer edge of the pipe needing deburred against the inner wall of the anchor pipe.
Hey great info for all beginners but, you really should not use TEFLON TAPE on any Thread in my opinion. It can and will cause Cracking like said here in this article but, it will cause a lose fitting if not carefully installed. Also it’s really not a Lubricant and can and will cause Thread Goulding Especially STAINLESS STEEL THREADS. Use instead TRU-BLU THREAD LUBE AND SEALANT. This will end all problems with proper Thread Lube, Goulding and will Seal Micro Cracks and Bad Threading. It is Approved for all Water and Gas, Steel or Plastic Pipe and Fittings and is far Superior than Liquid Teflon. Also, use a BONDO RASP to fast cut Plastic Pipe for fitting and Gluing. One last thing to cover that was not covered is you can use a HEAT GUN to Soften Plastic Pipe and make Bends and Turns. Less Money Spent on Fittings. This Process is used all the time on the Job Site by PLUMBS and ELECTRICION. Just thought I’d Plug this while I was Commenting.
This was a awesome article bro 😎 I was about to hit the lowes and your article popped up and I sat down thinking it was going to be a bunch of common sense mistakes but you have a ton of knowledge put together here from years of experience and now I’m going to do this project with knowledge I was about to make basically every mistake you mentioned you totally saved me
I was a pool man for twenty five years your advice is good but it will fall on deaf ears. All advice on here is simple logic most plumbers and I mean pool plumbers as well do these tips every day. Most are competent masters with apprentices which they teach these techniques. The average homeowner doesn’t use primer. They will use cement only and their hands for deburring cut pipes. You should emphasize the use of pipe cutting devices. The old hack saw is the tried and true winner.
I’ve seen several times you contradicted yourself say they need to hold it to cure then turn around and tell to work fast ? Then you said it can’t be left in the cold I think you meant weather ? In the cold is where most of it is and a lot of your showing them how it doesn’t seat properly ? Heck you didn’t even twist them 😂 I’ve put entire runs together and started it right up afterwords because I’m working fast and so my leak checks . People this is pvc for dummies so if you’ve never done it before please check other articles 😂 had to cut this one short because I feel he didn’t know what he was talking about been doing pvc for like 50 years now trust me
Just a note to consider, I’ve been a licensed plumber over 49 years. I would rather tell you that to READ the manufactures recommendations, and FOLLOW them, they look for reasons not to warranty. Charlotte pipe will not warranty pipe or fittings if purple primer is used. And only their glue. 5 an 7 million dollars houses on ocean here were voided due to leaks. Cover your behind, when doing this, it sometimes means telling inspectors your not violating codes only keeping your 30 year mortgage with insurance company’s. I know seen it, welcome to Florida.
All these comments is no one gonna mention on number 7 that you should never use metal male (mip) into plastic female fittings (fip) ? You should always use plastic male into metal female. Way more likely to crack the plastic if you use metal mip into plastic fip. Still agree with the pipe dope though.
LOL I was a plumber when pvc, cpvc, and abs first came into existence. There was no primer or cleaner. I glued MANY, MANY, joints for many years with no problems. In fact, I did one job in my early days working for a plumber, and someone, maybe me, put a joint together without ANY glue. Somehow it got missed. It was in the ceiling above their dining room. It held together for 5 years without any leaks. Then one day the customer replaced their deep well pump and the pipe blew apart. BUT, for 5 years it held, under pressure, with zero glue. This primer deal is just another ploy to get people to buy more product from the manufacturer. Actually it MAY be better to use it but, it is not really necessary. I know,,,,,,, most building codes require it, I am just saying, put plenty of glue, and get the pipe and fitting together quickly, and it will seal just fine.
Thanks for these tips. Most of this stuff is on the back of the can, but it is helpful to have a little more explanation. For example – they always tell you to “chamfer the edge after you make the cuts but since they don’t say why, I never knew how much or even if it mean the inside or outside of the pipe. Now I know why that is important and may explain some leaks I’ve had!
Great article! I think lots of plumbers can tend to let some of these steps drop off in the name of speed, especially the temperature stuff. I would love to see a Got2Learn article with in-depth discussion on garbage disposers. It seems like there is quite a bit of disagreement or uncertainty about how to properly use these appliances, but lately, every kitchen drain call that we get at my job has a disposer that the customer states they ‘only use a it sometimes’. Is there a proper way? Should these be installed in a house at all? What about the insinkerator unit with the ‘septic system enzyme’? Thanks.
If you’re on a job using pvc primer and glue for a long time,get your liver checked. You’re going to be surprised. I went back a couple of months later and was ok again,but it WILL mess with your liver if you breathe the fumes and get sloppy sloshing primer all over yourself! I wore gloves but it turned out to be fumes from the solvent weld of the pvc bonding that got to me. I make sure I use fans,etc,for ventilation if none is provided already.
I’m not a plumber but I can remember that there was a time when there wasn’t any primer. I think it’s just a way to make more money. There is a article on YouTube where a guy tested both applications (with and without primer) under pressure and in “both” trials the pipe burst before the glue gave way.
@got2learn years ago it was said we didn’t have to use purple primer because of staining customers or jobs floors, etc. I have been out the game for awhile now thinking about getting back into it. My other question is can you use clear primer now and will it pass for inspection? I’m sure you can use it for non-inspection purposes though.
Having worked with PVC and CPVC for the last 40+ years, I was familiar with most of the mistakes listed. However, I had never heard about the angled fittings/pipes. Were those just ABS? I’ve never worked with that. Also, while I do some deburring, never chamfered the edges like that. Will have to keep that in mind. Thanks, and great vids!
Great tips. I’ve used a marker on many installs before. Today I finished running 34′ of 1 1/2″ kitchen drain and rebuilding the under sink plumbing. A previous owner had run the line into the main with about a ten-inch drop using two forty-fives into a straight pipe and then a ninety into the main. Needless to say, it plugged big time, and oh yeah, they didn’t bother to put in a cleanout. I went back to check all my fittings and found I missed one side, so I had to pop the pipe out of the hangers for several feet to allow me the flex to pull it apart and seal it.
I quit using the purple stuff as the container lets the product evaporate unless you take time to cut a piece of alum foil and get it into the bottom of the cap so it seals really well and store it in a plastic bag. I started using brake cleaner in a pressure container like the one you get at the auto store. It removes the “skin” from the pipe. I always wait a couple hrs before pressure testing, then I will bury or close up walls if no leaks. thanks for your good info. glad I retired.
Great article thank you. Regarding downspouts and 4″ sewer pipe installation. I would like to inquire what primer you would use and paint to paint PVC from the ground level to the eaves trough/downspout. I saw one article of a YouTuber using the purple primer with a paintbrush he primed the entire pipe about 3 feet sticking out of the ground to connect to the downspout and then he painted it. Do you have any recommendations on what to use for paint I can’t leave it just looking white it doesn’t look good. Also I have 4 to do. LOL
9 years ago, I was hooking up the drain for my kitchen sink. I thought I knew what I was doing. I used primer on the PVC and put it all together. A few hours later I turned on the water and it started leaking everywhere under my cabinet. I shut off the water and called a plumber afterhours. That was a $200 mistake and learning experience as all I forgot to do was glue up the joints.
All good info. However once I read on instructions to use a little less solvent on the inside than on the outside. That’s why a apply the outside first and what’s left over on the inside. This is to prevent surplus solvent going into pipework. This can separated eventually and flow into valves of sprayers. Not good
i too have never used primer, and never had a leak, but my plumber father taught me to lightly sand both connections surfaces first(we use emery cloth), before glueing, which brakes the hard outer surface on pipe and fittings, allowing the (solvent cement) glue to get the best possible interaction with both surfaces(i still twist in a quarter turn or so as well). ps, never yet been able to get any joints apart again later, by force or with heat (i tried a couple just to test how good joints were), imo sanding first makes the bond a complete amalgamation of the 2 surfaces once set.
One issue I’ve found is when using a pvc cutter v hacksaw .. the cutter leaves a small lip around the cut and this lip must be filed/sandpapered off for the connection to be flush. The hacksaw leaves it’s own mess and must be cleaned of all debris as well .. I’ve found a hacksaw to be the best way to cut whenever possible.
I keep having people fix the same pipe leak. Just thought I see what mistakes can be made because of course same pipe started leaking hot water again! I know I saw white pipe leading to a big black joint. I am having the people show me what the old pipe that they take out looks like this time as I might try doing this myself one day. All of the hot water leaks have completely dissolved all of the insulation under my house, bonus. Yey.
Thanks to your articles I was able to solder my copper lines and convert to pex a. You are a life saver, money saver, and honestly doing so much good in the world. I can’t thank you enough. I even had a line leaking as a I did the work and I went to your website to figure out how to temporarily stop the leak. AmazIng, thank you!!! Onto these pvc fittings I have to do!
Always learn something from your article. I’ve been a victim of breaking/cracking pipes using those scissor like cutters. I use a miter saw now and may buy one of those saw like cutters. I don’t think I will buy another one of those scissor style cutters anymore. Btw, I am not a plumber by trade but do quite a bit of this stuff to have learned how to do a lot of the basic stuff and 1 or 2 tougher jobs.
Only disagreement – make sure you have sharp ratcheting cutters and you don’t have anything to worry about. If the pipe starts to bend, you’re not sharp enough. If it doesn’t cut with an easy squeeze, replace the blade. Hand-saws tend to put detritus in the line, which in some situations is very much not acceptable – why I only use them with a good de burring tool. Good article, thinking about sending to some coworkers – it’s the little things that ruin lines.
you should have a article for people who think a hacksaw is better than a reed or rigid pipecutter marking your pipe to the depth of the fitting . reaming out burrs in the pipe and outside the pipe, same with black pipe you need to de burr . i used an olfa blade to remove burrs on pvc . pex . abs and black pipe both gas and water .
Thanks for the knowledge. I’m in the process of replacing a PRV that’s buried underground approximately 3 feet from the water source from the city. It was going well until the PVC from the source broke. Fortunately, I was able to go in the city hole and turnb the water off as it was flooding my PRV hole. I’m digging in the am. Wish me luck.
Hey there. I really enjoy your articles and this one did not fail to satisfy either. Thanks for all the time that you put into these! In this article, you warn against using a ratcheting cutter for cutting PVC and CPVC and recommend using a saw instead. Is this to say that you do not recommend ever using a ratchet cutter? Thanks!
IN ADDITION When assembling joints, excess can run into the other side of a fitting which can dry and prevent insertion of another pipe. Example: I attach a 1 inch sleeve to 1 inch PVC and didn’t realize excess glue ran into the other side of the sleeve. I come back after lunch, and can not get the pipe to fit into the 1 inch sleeve cause a chunk of glue has hardened in the sleeve fitting. OOPS! Just check it and wipe it off, ASAP, before lunch… I wear nitrile gloves when using primer, cause that stuff gets everywhere. AND…avoid working with glue in closed areas, unless you want a clear understanding how “Alice In Wonderland” originated. Excellent articles. Best to almost everyone and NO, you do not need to be injected with an EXPERIMENT chemical that is NOT a vaccine. Mr. Brown
i dont agree with putting glue on inside of fitting…..usually it will just push inside the fitting and partial blocks can occur. seen it several several times!!!! and make sure you turn the fitting until it starts to tighten up for better seal. seen several “push ons” that spray water when pumps are turned back on.