In a room lacking natural light, investing in colors that accent the artificial light can help brighten up the space. Avoid dark tones that accentuate the lack of light. Artificial light is even more important than natural light, so it’s essential to have multiple sources. With clever use of color, artificial light, and decor, your windowless room can feel sun-kissed in no time.
To ensure good artificial lighting, use sunlight light bulbs for circadian lighting. Hang mirrored or metallic elements, stick with a softer color palette, and add lights. Overhead lighting is another option for a brighter room, as downlights shine illumination across the room and onto the walls, adding a main layer of light.
For rooms with low windows and no windows, consider using layered lighting, mirrors, and thin white drapes to diffuse light throughout the room. If you have small or no windows, plan and design the room to maximize the light you do have in the room. Layer light sources, find the right bulbs, be creative with color, and steer clear of white. Go matte. Use mirrors! Light hues are typically recommended, as they can make a space without natural light feel brighter and more open.
Using only light tones on the walls and furniture will keep a room that has little natural light as bright and airy as possible. Not every room comes with a ton of natural light, but there are ways to make your dark room brighter without installing a skylight.
📹 How to add a Ceiling Light to a Room with no Existing Wiring
In this video we go over the process of wiring in a new ceiling light in a room without one existing (no previous wiring). It’s quite …
What happens if a room doesn’t get sunlight?
This blog post explores the pros and cons of sunlight in the home, focusing on the benefits and potential cons. It provides tips on maximizing sunlight when it is desirable and stopping it when it is not.
The pros of sunlight in the home include providing warmth, providing light, and reducing the need for artificial light. It also helps in reducing the amount of dust and dirt in the air, which can contribute to a more comfortable living environment.
However, the cons of sunlight in the home include potential health risks, such as skin irritation and eye strain, and potential damage to furniture and fixtures. To mitigate these risks, it is essential to balance the benefits of sunlight with the potential drawbacks.
How to light a room with no lighting?
Torchiere floor lamps are tall, freestanding lamps with a bowl-shaped shade that cast a soft, diffused glow across the ceiling, ideal for providing ambient lighting in large living rooms. Including multiple light sources, such as floor and table lamps, can enhance overall brightness and create a layered lighting effect. Strategic placement of these fixtures ensures even illumination and eliminates dark corners.
Task lighting is provided by placing table lamps beside seating areas, while accent lamps with adjustable heads or shades provide optimal visibility and comfort. Adjustable lamps with built-in lights are perfect for cozy reading nooks or lounging areas.
Accent lighting is created by installing wall-mounted lights above paintings, artwork, or decorative features, highlighting the texture and colors of artwork while adding a touch of sophistication. LED tape strips behind furniture, along shelves, or beneath cabinets can add a modern, ambient glow to the living room, accentuate architectural details, or create a cozy ambiance during movie nights.
How important is lighting in a room?
The manner in which a room is illuminated can significantly influence the ambience and emotional state of those within it. The appropriate lighting configuration can also contribute to an enhanced sense of spaciousness. The combination of natural and artificial lighting sources can effectively transform the ambience of an existing room, imparting a sense of novelty to an older design or enhancing the visual appeal of a newer one. The optimal lighting should harmoniously align with the spatial design and décor, striking a balance between aesthetic appeal, comfort, and practicality.
Can you call a windowless room a bedroom?
Despite the absence of a legal definition, a bedroom can be defined as a room with or without a window. However, all habitable rooms must have an escape route.
How to simulate daylight in a windowless room?
Light Supplier offers six ways to mimic natural light in a windowless room. Mirrors can be used strategically to reflect light back into the room, making it feel more spacious and uplifting. Layering lighting, choosing light and reflective paint colors, adding artificial skylights and windows, using light diffusers, choosing the right bulbs, and investing in high-quality lighting are also effective ways to create a natural light effect. By incorporating these strategies, you can create a more inviting and uplifting space in your spare bedroom, home office, or basement.
Is it possible to have a completely dark room?
The assertion is essentially accurate, provided that the room is devoid of functional illumination and access points, and the interior space does not feature expansive windows that are susceptible to direct sunlight. This can be accomplished by utilizing black paper and masking tape.
Do rooms need natural light?
Dark rooms without natural light can be cold and unwelcoming, impacting sleep patterns and mental health. Humans need a regular cycle of daylight and night darkness to maintain a steady circadian rhythm. In areas like the kitchen, bathroom, and home office, where tasks are conducted, it is essential to have enough natural light. However, if these rooms lack natural daylight, it is necessary to recreate them to mimic the effects of daylight and reap its benefits. This article provides instructions on how to lighten a dark room with no natural light to create a better living space.
Do rooms need sunlight?
Natural light is a powerful and healthy way to enjoy indoors, providing warmth and vitamin D, making rooms comfortable even in cold weather. Studies have shown that improving interior lighting can help people recover from oversleeping, overeating, and energy loss, especially for those who work from home. Georgia Ezra, an interior design and media personality, believes that without sunlight in homes, we are exposed to the risk of depression and anxiety.
To improve home spaces, people should consider incorporating more natural light into their renovation or building plans. There are various ways to work with the space to let in and utilize as much natural light as possible, improving both the aesthetics and livability of the space. When designing or renovating existing spaces, consider these ideas to be happier and save money in the long term.
One way to light the environment with lots of white light is to use natural light in various ways, such as using natural light in windows, doors, and windowsills. By doing so, people can create a more comfortable and healthy environment for their homes.
What do you call a room with no light?
The term “dark” is commonly used to describe both indoor and outdoor spaces, particularly during periods when the sun is not visible or shining. The term “dark” is used to describe locations with minimal or no illumination. The term “dark” is particularly applicable when referring to instances when the sun is not visible or shining. It is imperative to gather and bring all toys and other items that may be misplaced or damaged indoors before nightfall.
How to design a room with no natural light?
To add light to dark rooms, consider using mirrors, re-exposing windows, using matte colors instead of high-gloss, using uplighters, removing wall art, and decorating in white. Mirrors not only reflect light but also bounce it back. Removing absorbent colors, fabrics, and accessories can create a brighter space, allowing you to enjoy crisp spring days. Follow these expert tips to create a brighter living space and enjoy the crisp spring days.
Is it possible for there to be no light in a room?
Cameras are capable of detecting image noise, which is defined as any pixel that is not completely black, even in the absence of visible light. The nature of this noise can be attributed to a number of factors, including Johnson-Nyquist noise.
📹 How Much Light Does My Room Need? Lighting Design | Lighting Calculation Formula
Hello everyone, today I want to continue our topic on light. In today’s video I will be explaining Lumens, Lux, Light loss factor, …
I’ve watched some tutorials regarding this scenario and this is the most detailed and straightforward article I’ve ever watched! I have 2 rooms in my house which doesn’t have a light and the switches are connected to the outlets. Doing it myself will def save me money. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. God bless!
Nicely done. I find that a schematic also helps in visualizing the paths of the conductors. On unfinish drywalls I often sketch the schematic in pencil, so I don’t have to rethink and is also a great training tool to my assistants, so they can also understand what is going on. I like the improvisation of using a receptacle for the light fixture, I’ve done the same and this only happens when you have done this type of work often where you can improvise, with a bit of creativity, to get the point across or simply to test things.
Hey up Liam. Bang up job. Having worked in & around the office side of the residential contracting / construction I can say I’m impressed & like your easy to follow but fun articles for someone who may be new into the field or just want to know. I like that you point out the “why not” as well as the what to do.
Hands down the best article, especially for folks without attic access. I installed ceiling fans in all three bedrooms of my top floor, but have been dreading trying to do the living room downstairs (no access). This just gave me the confidence to do so. There are other articles I have watched that walk through patching up the holes, but it would be great if you linked to one from you, here. The job is a little unfinished as is and I’d rather watch a article with details like you have here than perusal from a different YouTuber.
Good article. You should have grounded the Romex wire to the screw holding the tab. The electrical box on the ceiling is not grounded and there is a small chance the stud could catch on fire. Putting electrical tape around the switch and outlet would prevent screws from shorting anything. Wires get shuffled when things are inserted into the box.
Great article and explanation. I have a quick question? I had the same scenario but I went ahead and installed a ceiling fan. In the room I have 5 outlets, after this work was done I only have 3 out of 5 outlets that have power. Do I have to go back to the original outlet and make an adjustment so that all other outlets work again?
Hey man thanks for the article. Hvac tech here and would love if you make a article on wifi/smart switches that are bulky. I tried to install two side by side by could not fit. I don’t know whether there is a better way of doing it or maybe I just can’t put 2 side by side with a third normal switch. FYI the box was already there and the new switches were added.
PRETTY GOOD WALK THRU HOW TO ADD A CEILING LIGHT! HOWEVER I NOTICED TWO MISTAKES! I was always taught to use electrical tape around all receptical outlet screws. Additionally on all wire nuts for added safety, to ensure a safer connection, especially if you are going to have your wiring checked by a building inspector! The reasoning is that it’s to easy for an inexperienced weekend electrician to make an improper or loose connection, and create a short circuit! So far, none of the DIY Electrical articles ever address this added safety precautions! Folding & pushing the wiring into the outlet bon can easily pull an improper connection loose, and cause a fire! Furthermore you could be blamed for not instructing a simple minded, “DIY’ER” about these added safety measures! In addition, it’s not ok to advertise, “I put the ground wire on backwards, but that’s OK”! IF YOU MAKE A MISTAKE, AND REALIZE THE MISTAKE, CORRET IT! N OTHERWISE, YOU WILL CONTINUE TO MAKE MISTAKES, UNTIL SOMETHING SERIOUS HAPPENS!
A few things you could have mentioned; consider what type or weight of ceiling fixture you intend to install. The weight of a ceiling fan might require you to attach your box to both ceiling joists. Another issue you could inform viewers of is that the size of a box restricts the number of wires it can safely hold. Most DIYers don’t know about that.
A lot of times I will use 12-2 as my fish, it’s stiff enough and shapeable. this also helps to make sure that you have enough clearance for the wire you’re trying to pull down. how many times do you put the skinny wire up but then you can’t get the head of the romex through something or have it get caught. using the romex as a fish gives you a smooth consistent pull with no catching.
Mixing light circuits and power circuits is not legal in Australia & New Zealand, as they have different current ratings for connected devices, cabling and RCD’s. UNLESS …it is actually designated as a mixed circuit and as such all cabling and RCD’s must be connected in a manner that suits the highest current rating…..e.g. an outbuilding may be all wired as a mixed circuit. PS – however in Australia only licenced electricians are allowed to legally do electrical work.
What if I want to install a ceiling light with a fan, and I want to control the fan separately from the light? Could it be done by just running an extra switch next to the light switch and also having to run additional wiring from The switch to the ceiling light/fan. I wouldn’t have to run any additional wiring down to the receptacle would I, since I will have a hot at the light switch? I’m sure I could just install a ceiling light/fan that comes with a remote control but I just don’t want to have to deal with losing the control and not having separate control of my light and fan.
Great instructions, and I really like the tip to clean cut Romex. I wish you would have added some best practices to the instructions. Two things that would have driven me nuts………. Both the power feed and the switch leg are black. Some colored electrical tape on both ends of the switch leg would help troubleshooting. Also using the outlet to connect the neutral wires, I would have used a wire nut and a pigtail. However, I want anyone that reads this comment, to know that this is a proper install. (The tab on a 15amp outlet is designed to carry a 20amp load) The pig tail also prevents a failed outlet from taking out the entire circuit. The daisy chain isn’t Ideal for high power loads. That being said most people would never experience any issue, and the time and extra wire space in the box gives this a thumbs up.
This is an awesome, informative article…Thanks! As an apprentice electrician (all of about 4.5 months…long story why I didn’t stick with it), all I ever worked on was rough-in and finish. I have often wondered how one could install or change an electrical arrangement without completely cutting out of the drywall the entire run. This makes SO much more sense!👍
Great article appreciate all the tips on installing a fan/light fixture. My home has an attic which makes for an easier installation of the fan hanger junction box. The hanger was installed between 2 10 x 2’s with long screws. After running a power wire into the junctions box wireless receivers/transmitters were wired to control the fan and light separately. The light receiver includes a 4 level dimmer. Easy job took 2 hours the transmitters work really nice to turn the light and fan on/off.
This was an amazingly thorough presentation. Thank you! EDIT: Now, since you asked for a suggestion at the end I tried to think of one… try adding a tiny bit more inflection to your voice. You were nowhere near monotone, but a bit more appropriate inflection helps. If you had not asked I would not have suggested it. But I hope this comment is helpful. I’m subbing now!
Would this work for a ceiling fan as well? Screwing it into the joist will make it solid enough to hold a fan? (Great explanation by the way! The most detailed yet straight forward article I’ve seen of this yet. The only thing I could use more help on is close ups of connecting/reconnecting the wiring to the outlet/switch. I know it’s hard to do though since you’re working in such a small space.)
Nice demonstration, althought, For you’re information,here in the province of Quebec those who do NOT have a qualified certification in this trade are NOT allowed to even (unscrew) any outlet’s what so ever… This being said, you’re procedure is good but if i may say, to save on a new plug and time, where whitch the side jumper was cut off on the existing ‘switched plug’ you could have joint the red wire on the ‘black line’ wire in the switch outlet and save on time or put a jumper from the top to the bottom screw’s on the existing plug if red is not to be used.. and these two method’s are to code also. Oh, one last thing, i find that the finishing screw’s to the wall plates is better looking vertically than horonzontally because the lenght of the devices are ‘longer than wider’ !! But there is No ”write or wrong” way for the orientation of the scew’s😆
what about when there is insulation in ceiling? also what if you had to span 2 or more joists … would you make 1 access hole on the same side of each joist, part of me feels like it would be easier to remove a single long strips of sheet rock (maybe 4″ wide) and then you only have to patch 1 long hole rather than many
Phenomenal work; you are relaxed, confident and extend the courtesy of at least average intelligence to your audience. There are these articles that pretend like the installers are geniuses and their audience is a bunch of Adderall raddled 13 year olds “if this is too complex for you, call an Electrician!” – who doesn’t know this already? Keep’em coming PS if you can, don’t wait for user suggestions, that trope has outlived its purpose. Put out good material and let your audience pick and choose what serves them. If customers knew more they wouldn’t be customers lol!
Lol yes this is the simplest and easy way to do it…. But it gets a lot harder when dealing with a home built in 1900 or there abouts. The walls are more cement than plaster, where drill bits and sawzall blades dull very quickly, and the wood is almost fossilized. In cases like that I just use wire molding.
I have a similar situation, but slightly different, I have a switch that goes to a ceiling light, it gets power from another ceiling light in another room, it works, but I want to add another light into the closet and be on that same switch. Can this safely be done? Next, the light in the closet is installed, wiring is ran from the closet light, to the switch box, I have 2 extra wires from when the light switch controlled a plug in (everyone loved lamps in the 80s I guess) If I reconnect the extra pair to the old switched outlet, but don’t break that tab, and then run the return to the closet light, (from the switch box) then I should just need to connect the hot wires with the switch? Does this make sense?
Been trying to figure out how to do this. I’ve got a 1993 house with a switched outlet in every room. A few old recessed lights. I’d love to get rid of all of the switched outlets and put in recessed. If I understand correctly, that red wire through the wall is no longer connected to anything, correct?
Outstanding article!! This is exactly what I needed to do and your step-by-step instructions were perfect. Especially appreciated the detailed written remarks where you provided links for all the tools used and article shortcuts to the various tasks. Great idea to have a “set” where you could see what was happening above the ceiling. Probably the best instructional article I’ve seen…job well done!
When talking about grounds, make sure to clarify that DIYers still have to bond the ground wire to the metal box, because it’s still non-metallic romex running through the home, not metal conduit. So as long as they’ve bonded the ground to the metal box, they don’t have to ground the switch itself, because the metal back frame and screws of the switch will ground the switch to the metal box by default. Some DIYers will just see the floating ground wire there and assume they don’t have to connect it to anything, because the box is metal. Don’t want any misunderstandings.
How about this scenario: Switch and outlet like in this article, but concrete ceiling, with wired fan (so there is wiring going there to the fan (in a daisy chain (several wires together))) but the fan is NOT controlled by the light switch. Can I replace the fan with a light and have the switch control just the light, without affecting whatever is on the daisy chain, rather than just have the outlet (or worst case scenario have both controlled, light in the ceiling and the outlet)?
Cool article, thanks! I live in Maine, and here in New England there are many switched outlets- old homes converted to being wired, some fascination with floor lamps, or just cheap. I don’t think I’ve ever run into a home where it wasn’t the bottom face in my 20+ years of working in new and old homes. Is this not true there? It makes more sense to have the dedicated light outlet lower to not obscure the other face which may be used for many things. I’m not an electrician, I’m a painter. I get to unplug and move everything in people’s houses and then put it back the same, so I notice. The rich never move anything before we show up, we get to do it all.
Great article! Possible article: I am in the process of looking for an older home. My current older home had knob and tube wiring – which I did not realize how dangerous it was until a few years ago (and not to code nor insurable). After having the whole house rewired, I vowed I’d never buy a house that was not rewired. With research I found that there are ways to fool an inspector that all the k-t is out (I thought seeing a 3-prong plug was evidence it was..not). Can you show us how this could be done when looking at older homes?
This was a great demo of doing wiring. Done some myself adding a lite. I like the open end for viewing…LOL Think I read somewhere to put the plate cover screws vertical and now you say horizontal. Never before heard either and now I have to do it and will do it Your Way! Thanks for making wiring comfortable to work with.
I have a space where I need to add wiring for a box for a fan/light. Unfortunately it’s on the bottom floor ceiling of a 2 story home. 3 sides are blocked for running wires due to windows and large passage/opening. The only way to run a wire to a new box is by running it through the floor joists above which means I have to drill a hole in each one to feed the line. This is doable but I also need to demo the ceiling(sheetrock) to access the joists to be able to drill.
You’re hot it informative article one of the things I was not happy with is that you say I don’t care a little too much as far as the quality of work even if it is just temporary you should find different wording and I believe I heard you call somebody a degenerate because they did not put the screw in the position that you would like it in on the plate for the receptacle at the bottom of the wall
I just bought a house and found a light switch in the dining room that I could not find anything connected to. I had used the bottom plug of a nearby outlet and never tried the top. The top plug is wired just like this. Now i can put a light over the dining room table. I did not think to check the top and bottom of the outlets until I watched your article. Since the vacuum worked in the outlet no matter if the switch was on or off. Great article.
Hi Liam, Great article and explained it well. I would like to do the same thing to one of our bedrooms as I have the same scenario other than my LINE comes down from the attic hooks to the switch then the bottom of the switch carries the LOAD to the outlet. On the other top side of the switch I have a LOAD going back up into the attic going to some other area of the house. My question is: what can I do to run the wire for the ceiling light to power it and tying it to the wall switch? I was thinking of just getting a larger switch box running the ceiling light wire down to the light box and tying black to black white to white and disconnect the red wire and replace the outlet. Thank you
Hola! 🖐This is one of the best explained and thorough tutorials I have seen. I have never “walked away” from doing some electrical work but I do consider it my weakest point. This has elevated my knowledge by perusal and now I know that I can always reference back when needed. Take care and have a good one, Adios! 👊
Thank you for sharing. I have a light switch outside/ hallway that controls light in a bedroom on the other side of the wall. Also have a switch inside the bedroom which controls an receptacle inside the room. I’m looking the switch the controls of the light into the bedroom and turn the hallway switch into a receptacle.
Dear Bro, You have done a great job, but you have not finish it as working order and you did not show us when you pull all the wire from the swtich box. I was expecting your show is about wiring the bathroom consedering the size of it, but how about wiring the bath room on concreit celling? do you have any other article or would you make another one? Thank you for sharing you skills and knowledge of elecrical wiring. Bravo!! Keep it up!!
As someone who had to replace an outlet in my living room and said “uhhh why did they plug in to both the hot terminals when they stabbed this outlet in?”, then found the wire end sitting behind said outlet, then found the other end behind the light switch by our door that for 12 years seemed not to power anything…when you abandon a wire in place, LABEL IT. I have enough of an understanding of wiring to have recognized that they had changed a switched outlet to constant power. It then took me twenty minutes to get my not-so-experienced husband to not so much understand, but to just blindlg trust me when I rewired it so we control a light in our living room from that switch.
Good job. A couple questions; for the 2nd method instead of drilling through the joist why not just feed the wire over the joist with your hand? in a single story house the joist isn’t that big. and, it’s unlikely there would be a cross member between joists. (maybe my homes have always been older) In a two story the joist is only a 4×6 or 4×8 – still able to reach over.
Same situation, bought new house, no ceiling lights in all bedrooms. Have to buy standing lights to used with the outlet next to bed with the light switch (that’s sucks). Saw your article, trying to install 4 (4″ recess lights in every room) . Can you explain more, what kind of wire to use (14/2 or 14/3) we have attic space to work on, thanks.
You should check out the plugs and switches used in the UK. They are probably the best and safest in the world. They make yours look like you are still in the 1930s. We have standard colours Brown = live (or line) Blue – neutral and all earth wires are sleeved green and yellow for standard wiring. All live and neutral screws in wall sockets and switches are sunken in plastic insulation so they cannot accidentally be touched and we also use push in connectors which when in, don’t come out again. There is no wrapping the end of a wire around a screw or leaving earth wires bare. Oh, and wires entering or exiting a metal wall box go through a hard rubber grommet to protect the insulation. Also check out kinetic (Quinetic) switches. You can have remote switches with no wires or batteries. The remote switch generates a signal when pressed and the master switch turns on or off. Inside range about 25 metres. There is no longer a need for two way switches although they are still used. Best wishes from the UK.
So I already switched the outlet to being full hot and tied off the red there. But behind the switch there are two Romex cables, one 14/2 and one 14/3. The grounds and commons are both just wired directly to each other from each cable, leaving two black and a red. What’s the proper way to wire that to my new light cable once I get it run?
You really don’t want to use an old work box in a ceiling for a fixture. The weight of the fixture may pull the entire box through the ceiling. Also, if you screw a box in at an angle that is not listed an labeled for that application you risk the edge of the box not on the joist protruding beneath the drywall. I would recommend using a full saddle box or half saddle box if you are close to a ceiling joist. Listed and labeled for that use and much more secure installation.
You Americans really need to learn to you socket outlet power separate from your lighting . If there’s a fault on that circuit and the breaker trips you loose power to both the outlets and the lights, not a safe situation to be in. Keep them separate it there’s a fault on the socket circuit breaker trips you only loose the sockets but you still have lights like wise if the fault is on the lighting circuit breaker trips you still have the sockets and you can the plug a table lamp in . And your not thumbeling about in dark look for your tool box candles or torch 🔦 it up stairs you won’t be falling down the stairs . Secondly never use a non contact voltage pen to prove the circuit is dead. Always use a two pole voltage indicator or a multimeter. I am English and I have been qualified electrician for over thirty years, I just don’t understand how your wiring regulations can allow this and say it is safe, but it’s not for me to say how other countries should install there electrical systems. If I was visiting America and staying in a hotel or staying with friends I wouldn’t feel safe going to bed at night, knowing that is how the electrical circuits are wired. Sorry just my personal opinion no disrespect intended.
Just reaching out… I am approaching a dilemma and I cannot find any info on my next task so I thought I would reach out and see if I can get some feedback. I have and am sound proofing my middle bedroom to be my new home recording studio. The walls are secure with triple insulation including 1-1/2 rigid foam insulation sealed with insulation spray foam. This room is not only dead silent now it is completely air tight…except for my ceiling. The only thing left is the ceiling. My plan is to also apply the 1-1/2 rigid insulation sheets to the ceiling. Once done the entire room will be completely covered in 2-inch acoustic foam panels. Here’s my issue. I need to drop my ceiling light fixtures down about four inches. Wiring is not a concern, but I’m not sure how to securely drop & mount the box to remount my lights to clear the double foam. Your thoughts?
Not sure if its code to have a romex wire be pulled into a metal switch box that seems to be made for AC/BX wire… at least it appears to be a AC/BX metal box. The risk is mainly due to the possibility of the romex sheath being pierced by the sharp edges of the knockout hole without any fittings to protect it. Any thoughts?
I have the same project right now. The switched outlet is on the opposite wall. To avoid opening the wall by the switch, wouldn’t it work to take the 2 wires currently connected to the switched outlet off the outlet and basically extend them with new wires from that box to the led ceiling light, then change the outlet out to all unswitched? So the return wire would go from the switch to the outlet box (already there) and from there to the led ceiling light (new wire) and in that same 14/2 wire that carries the new portion of the return wire to the light it would also have the hot wire from that outlet box. Then the switch controls the light not the outlet.
I’m a bit OCD about waste and recycling, so it bugs me to have a foot sticking out and cutoff several inches which probably wind up in a landfill. If I do cut off damaged ends I toss them into my tool bag, where they eventually are gathered and added to my copper recycle box. I think it’s interesting that he used a receptacle in his test room, and doesn’t have a spare light fixture and bulb.😂
As mentioned in the article anyone attempting this suggested method must be extra cautious as not to injure existing wiring running along ceiling joists in your house without ever knowing creating a fire hazard. That’s the reason you would normally open up more of the ceiling gypsum to eliminate that chance. Also I’m not sure about Ontario, but here in BC using the terminal of a device such as a receptacle to feed power to another device or fixture is highly frowned upon. It’s recommended we splice and use wire nuts. Cheers.