Minwax PolyShades is a product that combines stain and polyurethane in one simple step, providing rich color and lasting protection while enhancing wood grain. This product is ideal for indoor projects but not designed for outdoor use due to UV exposure. To use Minwax PolyShades, apply it to bare or pre-finished surfaces without removing the existing finish.
The product is suitable for changing the color of stripped, raw unstained wood and can also be used on finished unstripped surfaces that have been stained, painted, or varnished. The product can be darkened to medium/dark brown using PolyShades® American Chestnut or Mission Oak, or darkened to add or intensify red tones with PolyShades® Natural Cherry or Olde Maple.
Minwax PolyShades claims to cut down on finishing times by combining stain and sealant in one step. However, it should not be used for outdoor projects as exterior wood expands and contracts a lot. While Minwax PolyShades does a fair job on indoor items, it should not be used for outdoor use due to its potential for oxidation.
Minwax PolyShades is an oil-based one-step stain and polyurethane finish that provides both wood stain color and durable polyurethane protection. It is important to note that Minwax Wood Finish pigment stains are not intended for exterior applications due to UV exposure.
Minwax PolyShades is formulated as a protective clear finish for exterior or interior wood exposed to sunlight, water, or temperature. However, it is not recommended for outdoor use due to its potential for color loss due to UV exposure.
📹 Minwax Polyshades Review
Is Minwax Polyshades good or garbage? Does it do a better or worse job than traditional 2 step stain and polyurethane?
What kind of polyurethane to use outside?
Minwax® Helmsman® Spar Urethane is a protective clear finish designed for wood that is exposed to sunlight, water, or temperature changes.
How long will polyurethane last outside?
Polyurethane insulation systems can last over 50 years under normal wear and tear, while refrigerator insulation can last over 25 years. Vehicle bumper insulation can last over 20 years. PU EUROPE surveyed a 28-year-old roof with a polyurethane sheet, which was part of an insulation layer. The results showed that the sheet remained fully functional after 28 years of use, maintaining its original performance and values.
Is polyurethane waterproof for outdoor use?
Polyurethane is a weatherproof coating that can extend the lifespan of outdoor furniture by keeping moisture away from wooden surfaces, preventing rot, and providing a natural look and feel. While it won’t prevent furniture from falling apart when exposed to rain, it can help protect it from harsher weather and extend its lifespan with proper upkeep and maintenance. Polyurethane also offers several benefits in terms of maintenance, as it provides the natural look and feel of natural wood while preventing wear and tear on the furniture. Despite the challenges of weather, polyurethane coating offers a solution for outdoor furniture, making it a more durable and long-lasting option for outdoor spaces.
Is Minwax for interior only?
This water-based stain offers a wide range of possibilities in a single coat, rendering it ideal for small projects, unfinished furniture, cabinets, doors, and trim. The product is available in 240+ oil-rich colors, dries in 1 hour, exhibits greater color intensity with reduced grain visibility, and is 5x thicker for enhanced ease of application. It is suitable for projects of any size.
Can interior polyurethane be used outside?
Polyurethane is suitable for both interior and exterior use, with oil-based and water-based options suitable for interior projects. For exterior use, opt for a polyurethane with UV protection and withstands the elements. Oil-based polyurethanes are typically more durable, while some water-based formulas are designed for outdoor use. Polyurethane finishes come in various gloss levels: high-gloss, semi-gloss, satin, and matte. High-gloss finishes are shiny and reflective, enhancing wood’s grain and color but displaying scratches and imperfections.
Semi-gloss finishes have a slightly less reflective surface, offering a balance between shine and practicality, commonly used for furniture and cabinetry. Satin finishes have a soft sheen, hiding imperfections better than glossier finishes, and are ideal for projects with a subtle, rustic appearance.
Will polyurethane hold up outdoors?
Polyurethane is a weatherproof coating that can extend the lifespan of outdoor furniture by keeping moisture away from wooden surfaces, preventing rot, and providing a natural look and feel. While it won’t prevent furniture from falling apart when exposed to rain, it can help protect it from harsher weather and extend its lifespan with proper upkeep and maintenance. Polyurethane also offers several benefits in terms of maintenance, as it provides the natural look and feel of natural wood while preventing wear and tear on the furniture. Despite the challenges of weather, polyurethane coating offers a solution for outdoor furniture, making it a more durable and long-lasting option for outdoor spaces.
Is there a difference between exterior and interior stains?
Indoor and outdoor stains differ mainly due to the presence of additives, such as UV protection and chemicals that prevent mold, mildew, and fungus growth. Oil is considered the best stain due to its deep penetration into wood and lack of clear coat maintenance. However, it gets darker with each coat and may not have the same luster as water-based stains, which shine in sunlight. Understanding the pros and cons of water and oil-based stains is essential for maintaining a clean and hygienic log home.
Is MinWax Polycrylic for exterior use?
Polycrylic is a non-durable interior finish suitable for cabinets, furniture, and trim, not exterior or floors. It is not suitable for floors or surfaces exposed to water. Polycrylic can be applied using a high-quality synthetic bristle brush or an aerosol, depending on the surface. Sheen options include gloss, semigloss, satin, matte, and ultra-flat. Minwax recommends a minimum of three coats for brushing, rolling, or spraying, and a high-quality synthetic bristle brush is recommended for exterior applications. Other floor-specific finishes are available for foot traffic.
Can minwax be used on the exterior?
For exterior applications, the most suitable finishes are Minwax® Fast-Drying Polyurethane, Water Based Oil Modified Polyurethane, and Helmsman® Spar Urethane.
Is Minwax PolyShades waterproof?
Minwax Wipe-On Poly is a durable polyurethane finish that offers a classic, hand-rubbed look and provides protection against water, household chemicals, food stains, and wear. It combines stain and polyurethane in one simple step, providing rich color and lasting protection while enhancing wood grain. This product reduces finishing time compared to staining with one product and protecting with another.
It also allows easy color changes over existing varnish without stripping or hiding the grain. Minwax PolyShades stain and polyurethane can be used over polyurethane finishes, allowing for easy color changes without removing the existing finish.
What happens if you use minwax interior stain outside?
Interior stains can be used on exterior wood projects, but they do not effectively protect against harsh environmental conditions like sun and moisture gradients. This can lead to premature fading, peeling, and cracking, as well as insufficient resistance against moisture, mold, or mildew damage. To maintain the beauty and protection of exterior wood surfaces, homeowners can choose from a range of wood stains in various finishes and colors. Semi-transparent stains, like ZAR® Semi-transparent, provide a translucent hue that enhances the natural wood grain and texture while protecting it from moisture, UV rays, and other harmful elements.
📹 Minwax® | How to Use PolyShades
Follow our step-by-step guide for using Minwax® PolyShades to enhance wood grain in one easy step. Without removing the …
A better review would have been if you took the same piece of wood that is unstained and tape the middle to split the sides and do the 2-in-1 to one side and the 1 and 1 on the other so we can have something to compare to. Thanks for the article, but it doesn’t help consumers (at least me) make an educated decision.
This is not a stain. It is used like a paint to change the color of an outdated piece of furniture. It takes 3 coats to cover a honey oak wood such as a vanity or kitchen cabinet using an ebony or dark color. It will go on blotchy and streaked initially, if your are looking for a sold color, it takes 3 to 4 coats. No sanding between is necessary. I did this 4 years ago on a bathroom vanity and no issues whatsoever.
I have to say that Polyshades has its place and that is I feel in refreshing worn wood or changing the color. You must however apply with the grain. Poly does not like to be over brushed and a simple downstroke, followed by an upstroke and you are done. Recharge the brush and overlap slightly, repeating the motion again until reaching the edge. I didn’t like the way you were slathering it on and using cross strokes. I have used this with great success to refresh dated yellow oak kitchen cabinets. I always use the satin finish. I find that three thin coats with sanding in between is best. Like many things, the product gets blamed when often it is user error. Try again using my technique and I think you will l8ke the results.
Show how well stain soaks into an unsanded surface. You can’t half ass sand the chair without removing all the finish and old laquer and expect any stain to soak in. Try putting stain on a piece of glass and expect it not to be streaky. Next time when you do a review of a product give it a chance and do it right.
One other thing that’s probably worth mentioning that for hobbyists, applying the finish where most people screw up their otherwise decent projects. The staining process itself seems to be far more forgiving than the poly, which often leads to bubbles and artificial glossiness. Nothing is worse than spending hours making and prepping something, only to have it messed up in the last step. For that reason, I tend to use the polyshades because it seems easier to manage,. If I was professional and it was my goal to make something flawless, I might feel differently.
I’ve used it to go over light colored wood. It was a learning curve but I got it to take the stain without streaks. It had to do with brush technique. Of course, I restore antique rifles and I’ve had to match so many textures/finishes that I’ve learned techniques that your average person wouldn’t. It is a different situation.
I built a cabinet out of pine and have been fighting with this garbage for a week now. NEVER again. The ONLY way to get a so so finish is to sponge it on and wipe it all off and fast ass possible before it gets gummy and you cant. Horrible product. Like he showed you cannot brush it on. The viscosity is too thick. It never works out. Literally the only way to use this junk is just how you would use regular oil based stain long as you get it on and off really fast. I needed 3 coats to get the depth of color I wanted. No good. Once you put the first one on, good luck getting the next one to look even. Never again.
I was always under the impression that polyshades was designed to be put over top of previously stained and polyurethaned pieces, so you do not have to sand down to the wood in order to change the stain color. That’s the only reason why I would ever use this product I would never use it on a bare piece of wood. And I’m sure a few ounces of penetrol wouldn’t hurt either give it more time to level out.
I have used Polyshades before on kitchen cabinets. It works more like a oil based paint then a stain. You have to use a 3/16 mohair or velour roller and add a bit of penetrol, either that or spray it. Never use a brush on the flats, only on grooves and brush it and let it level. You over worked the product and use a brush on a flat surface, 2 major errors. Your techniques were terrible because you treated it like a traditional stain. It also works better when going light to much darker colors like grey or black. I have been in the fine finish business(stains and paints) for 20+ years. This product is not for rookies.
Thank you. I just recently bought that satin polyurethane stain crap and it left heavy overlap streaks on the top of my wood project now I have to figure out a way how to get rid of those dark overlap streaks that is the worst product that minwax has put out. You’re right! the old traditional way of staining is better. Thanks
I realize this is really old and you’re probably way beyond caring, but the polyshades works best if you actually follow the directions. It does require 2 coats, and the first one needs to be really light – not slathered on in one coat. After the first light coat dries (6 hours), then steel wool it and do the final coat. It’s pretty miraculous when done correctly.
I wish that I would have watched this article before using polyshades. I followed the instructions perfectly and the shelf that I’m making looks splotchy and has steaks. Now I’m going to try to sand it down and try again with a regular stain. Any tips you have would be greatly appreciated. This is my very first project.
I am doing new wood trim around a patio slider using Polyshades (Pecan). IT SUCKS. I scrupulously followed the application directions, treating the new wood first with Minwax conditioner, then on with the Polyshades, using a brush. By keeping a wet edge and tipping off the applied Polyshades, I am keeping the blotchiness away, pretty much. BUT the color depth is virtually non-existent. No way am I getting to the color indicated on the Minwax charts, unless I do a million coats. I’ve got two down now, and the color is perceptibly a bit darker than the raw wood, but I did not sign on to have to do 15 coats to get that color. What a pain. This is NOT staining wood, it is applying a very thin translucent color coat to the surface of the wood, with color depth determined by the number of coats. Never again. Oh, and “rub down the dried finish with fine steel wool” like the directions say — and you’ll be picking bits of steel wool out of the next coat you put down, even after cleaning up with a tack rag and clean cloth.
This review makes no sense because if you read the directions the product clearly states that it will not work as well on top of something that has a lacquered finish. The example worked best on the first one because it was almost down to the wood. The second chair would have looked bad even with the sep. stain and poly because it had too much of a finsih left on it.
I do beleieve if you worked with it differently then there could have been varying levels of quality finishes from those different methods, but what I do not beleive at all is that these products will ever come anywhere close to knowing how to stain and simply staining and using top coat of choice. I really dont like grain sealed wood a lot of the time, though if one goes to 500 grit and cuts poly in half with mineral spirits, doing several coats, you can get an extremely clear shiney epoxy look that looks really good without stain. If I am working with oil stain I like to fully remove anything that hides grain patterns. Stain shouldnt be paint, it should go on in a way where it changes the color of the wood without hiding the grian pattern, to me… and I do beleive if you hide the grian pattern you are now painting the wood. I tried polyshades recently, and just like every other stain and poly combo I have been dumb enough to try, I realized its just not good enough for my standards.
Most people recommend the two step process instead. But if you have an existing light coat of polyurethane (similar to Ikea furniture), wouldn’t a normal wood stain create a blotchy mess because the existing polyurethane prevents it from soaking into the wood? What would be the best two step oil based stain/topcoat that would actually work on top of existing polyurethane? Isn’t that what this Polyshades product is for, to be able to coat on top of poly without having to sand down? Perhaps the root cause of all these problems is mistakenly thinking Polyshades is a like stain when it behaves more like an oil based paint.
my last house all the woodwork everywhere was super faded. prob wasnt done in over 40 years or something. so i used polyshades on all the thick trim and the old skeleton key doors. the trim was easier to do. the doors i had problems with drips on the edges. but i also didnt know wtf i was doing and kind of winged it. overall i was happy though.
well done, well said. I’ve been working with wood, stains and urethanes for over 25 years. This product is for the DYI with low standards looking for an easy fix. However, I did get this to work without the brush marks showing. It took 4 coats, 6 hours dry time between each coat, scuffing with 0000 steel wool between each layer of finish. The end result is still nowhere near the real 2 step stain and then clear coat but it’s passable…probably more effort than the traditional method! A big problem with this PolyShade stuff, it’s prone to wear away on sharp edges and corners. On the can, it suggests a top coat of clear urethan for better wear protection….I feel it’s an absolute must! I can see using this type of stain/urethane combo idea for non wood surfaces to create a faux wood….like fiberglass doors. Having a faux wood finish over wood is a joke.
This is a great comparison article! I’ve been replacing my house’s white baseboards and trim with natural wood trim, but I didn’t want to waste too much time staining and clear coating so I got this. Each board I sanded with 80, 120, and 180 grit sandpaper. I usually do two coats of polyshades with disposable foam brushes after giving the boards a thorough cleaning and conditioning. They’ve been turning out great. You still get bubbles like you would with regular poly, but with the 6 hour dry time they clear up pretty well. I sand them with a paper bag on a wooden block and the result is a smooth, high gloss finish that looks incredible for being a single stage stain and clear coat. In the future I’ll use stain and clear coat of things that I really want to take my time with, but for something like baseboards it’s a game changer.
I am a beginner just starting on my fourth project and I bought Rust-oleum brand stain and polyurethane mix in American Walnut on accident. I decided to go ahead and try it and I hate it. This is a personal opinion only and I’m sure their are people that’s going to love it and I’m not trying to change anyones opinion, its just not for me. Personally I think its much harder to work with then just stain alone. It seems to thick, its sticky, the color doesn’t look like the American Walnut that I’ve used with just the stain and the color looks different in spots. I dislike it so much that I’m stopping on the first coat and hoping that I can use the regular stain after putting one coat of the mixed on my piece? Can anyone help me and tell me if this ok to do or do I need to start over and sand my piece back to the wood? I definitely don’t want to continue with the mixed version and I’ll start over if need be. I appreciate anyone’s feedback that knows the answer. Thanks!!
I used a darker polyshade over an existing polyshade. The streaking was terrible. I did NOT want to strip and statt over! Talking living room, dining room, hallway, two bedrooms. Got the main two rooms done and was totally disappointed. Sttippijng now to restart project. I was happy with the original polyshade. It laid down fine, or okay, but I grew to dislike the color… a pecan orange that should be a brown to match granite, which is the reason for my project. Now, with bare wood, deciding to poly shade or not. Leaning to not ise poly because I have noticed a variance in shine between cans. Will go the extra mile, I think. And, stain with 3 coats of poly. Ugh. Been working on my place woth painting and everything, since January. Its now September! When will this end?!
Not that I know everything, but when it comes to poly stain blends, and I make my own, and they work great if you do the following. You cannot really get a good outcome on a screen and recoat – you must sand the finish completely off the surface and tack it with mineral spirits, then spritz the surface with an alcohol water solution to raise the grain – knock that off with a 220 or 3M SPP pad (maroon) then it is best to use a little zylene or pure mineral spirits to thin the poly stain blend – not a lot just some to allow it to flow properly – then you will see a much better result I promise you. You can also add a touch of Japan dryer to accelerate the drying process and set time. Hope that helps.
Polyshades is meant to be quicker, not necessarily better. It saves a lot of extra work and drying time. I even sprayed a fairly large shelving project with it but I’m not sure I’d like to again. As for your second chair, you would have been better off using a good synthetic brush like a Wooster Ultra Pro Soft or a similar Purdy.
As a novice woodworker, I can spell “saw,” I tried this polystain on a small table project made of White Oak and Cedar scraps glued together. Time was not an issue although experience was, lol. I used weathered grey and am not happy with the result. I will sand it and use the two-part solution. Thanks for your content! Cheers from Texas!
Why in god’s name would anyone review a product like this on old furniture that you have to remove the previous finish for??? Yes, the product says you can use it over a previous finish but that is not the primary use for it. Any sensible person would have gotten two decent-seized scraps of un-finished wood and tested the product on those. It’s not brain surgery. Review grade: Fail
Ah, one problem in your application. Unless you’re using espresso and doing two coats, the caveat to using Polyshades is you’re supposed to only go one shade darker or go over the same shade again. Your first one looked pretty OK, but the other one didn’t work as you didn’t follow that sort of rule. I personally don’t know why it gets so much flack, though I’m used to brushing out oil based paints and this is similar. I think it’s really good for stuff that you otherwise can’t devote resources to a full strip down and refinish. I have stuff that looked landfill grade that I did a basic sand like you did pretty quick, 15 minutes per piece maybe, slapped two coats of Espresso polyshades and it’s at least usable and to the untrained/uncritical eye (aka, 99% of people) good looking furniture for very little labor and materials cost. I even redid my table with a full sand down to 100% bare wood and using prestain conditioner as well, and it came out looking stunning, definitely as good as a stain+poly at least comparing Minwax to Minwax.
Appreciated the ‘test’ before I launched on refinishing interior window casings and trim, BUT gotta DISAGREE. 28 yr old windows had faded, some a fair bit. Used Polyshade with superb success. NO brush marks whatsoever. Maybe with a microscope….and smooth as a baby’s butt. Followed routine of: 220 sandpaper prep, Polyshade, 000 steel wool, second coat Poly.., 000 steel wool, finishing with Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane. Should be good for a long long time.
Old schoold is better! Amen to that! I used this can of crap (polyshades) on a beautiful set of Maple stairs I made. It has destroyed them and now I either have to accept no money from my client because it looks so bad, or I have to lose my next contract and spend the time to strip it down and do it right. (which is probably qhat I have to do as my name is worth more than any 1 contract) The product avertisement on the actual can says… “Stain and Polyurethane in 1 step”; however it cumatively lacks the best qualities of each product when produced in the old fassion way with 2 products, 2 different steps, one great finish. I’ve tried this 2 in 1 product successfully before on top of a prestained piece and it looked great, but the origional dark stain hid the fact that the product sets up very quickly and the stain/tint in it produces a disgusting caramel like streak (in the lighter vairiants) that you cannot get rid of. Don’t even try. By the time you start to try to blend out the streaking marks, your brush starts spraying little bits of stain everywhere, and thusly it gets worse. This is not my first go at using staining products, but I watched only 1 article (from the manufacturor, not this article) and went with it. Too bad for me. I hope none of you have to suffer through this after readingmy post. This is not a product that any professional should use on a nice piece of finished wood that you then expect to get paid for. This is a product for DIY’ers and will even then only make 50% of them happy.
I just used this Horrible product. Two coats of streaks and thickness. Now I’m afraid to put a plate or cup on the finish all together. Does anyone know of a liquid product that would lightly take off one layer and smooth it all out to a dull-er finish. Or do I have to go do that steel wool thing that I’m scared to do. I’m NOT handy. This has been a nightmare.
Total bullshit review. Polyshade is excellent on bare wood or well sanded. The depth is far superior to stain the poly. It is a similair product to guitar makers use. By tinting the poly instead of wood….the peice gets a candied look. I have made table tops out of raw plywood that look like factory tops. I use the poly shade till i get the right depth n shade the finish with clear poly.