This tutorial outlines the process of creating custom door pods for your car. The first step involves planning and designing the pods by taking measurements of your car’s interior space and determining the size and shape of the pods. Then, the frame is built, fiberglass reinforcement is applied, and the pods are shaped with bondo. The pods are then primed and painted, and the door pods are installed. Testing and adjustments are then made to ensure optimal speaker placement and maximize audio quality.
The first step in creating custom door pods is gathering materials. The first step is to gather the necessary materials, such as fiberglass, to create the pods. The pods were designed to house 16.5cm JBL P6550e component speakers in a sealed enclosure for optimal mid-range performance. The tutorial also covers how to avoid sanding speaker door panels by hand, as well as how to build speaker pods for mids and highs.
In conclusion, creating custom door pods is a simple and effective way to add a custom look to your car’s interior space. By following these steps, you can achieve optimal speaker placement and maximize audio quality.
📹 Building CUSTOM Door Panels w/ Kerfed Plywood SPEAKER PODS | EXO’s LOUDEST Car Audio Install EVER!!!
Making custom door panels for the 12 18’s Behemoth Build! Today we’ll show how to go from STOCK to SHOCKED with 20 …
📹 How to Create Custom Door Pods Part 1: Layout and Design
… gonna have gaps in between the door panel and the pod and you don’t want your stuff to start doing that and make sure you do …
Bruce, the expanding foam trick to stop the rattles in the door is what I’ve been doing for years for trunk lids! It works GREAT to stop those pesky rattles, and makes the overall sound be SOOOOO much better!!! Love your positivity and am loving your updates! Keep on keeping on! You rock brother!!!!!
You were so close to perfection! All the work you put into those to make them look nice and be rigid, you should have just made completely sealed enclosures for the midranges and midbasses. It makes so much of a difference, especially for high motor force PA drivers, like those neos, to be in a sealed or ported enclosure, instead of a leaky box that makes them like IB and lets the door flex. Then you could also put some damping behind the Midranges to tame the standing waves inside and get a lot clearer sound. If you don’t already, I’d also separate the 8s and 6.5s completely, make the 8s play like 70-200Hz and 6.5s play 200-2kHz, so they don’t play over each other.
2-3 hasty/shoddy installs as a kid. 2+ acceptably done, yet Wally World sourced installs in my 20’s, + 10+ YEARS of wishing, dream building, researching sound, experience, and YT vid installation tips/ideas/techniques, + 1 year of dedicated saving, + 2+ years of slowly piecing together the best SQ audio components and fabrication materials I could reasonably afford, = THIS WEEKEND (other than my KW head unit and ridiculously overpriced but necessary fascia, which I installed months ago) I begin my first, from the ground-up, “professional-level” complete car audio build; electrical/charging system, batteries, wiring, connections. sound treatment, amp racks, speaker pods, processors, more than I wanna type here… Thank GOD for websites like you Exo, CAF, Steve Meade, etc, that have inspired me and kept the ideas rolling. You, specifically, show that with hard work, you can build just about anything imaginable. Thank you! Great stuff, as always! perusal this, I kept picturing the clip of that long-haired dude in the black SUV who gets his hair just blasted straight back off his head when the bass hits🤣🤣 Kept expecting that to be you in this one🤷♂️😂 God bless!
Heya dude! Great article, doors are a bitch to do! You’ve become a bit of a beast with these articles in the best way. Very proud to see the following you have now and that youve stayed true to yourself. I remember perusal you 10 years ago and getting inspiration, and here i am at 33, perusal you and getting inspiration. If mine continues to grow like it is, I’ll see you at slam next year 💪🤘🤘
Hey just wanted to let you know you are amazing with this stereo stuff hey Luke is there anyway that you can help me build a box if you need a little money or something to help me but I am putting 812s in my truck and H 12 is 1.5 ft.³ in the box I won’t deal with the 12s like your system is there anyway you can help me do that thank you EXO
i been perusal your articles for years and figured i would ask a question i have 2 -70Ah agm and 1 50 Ah limitless batteries-2 mechman 400 amp alternators alot more then a big 3 upgrade running a taramp smart 8k for bass and a taramp 4000×4 for mids and highs but my volts still drop under 13 and my amps shut off i just cant figure it out thanks for any help
Let’s Gooooooo with Exo. Bro it’s been a over a decade since I discovered your website and your content has never disappointed. You did a fantastic job on the door panels without a CNC everthing cut by hand. I’m not taking any shots at anyone that uses a CNC cause I’mma be real. If I had the money to burn, I’d use a CNC, too. But hand tools do the job just as nice, maybe not as precise, but definitely gets the job done.
The first article I ever came across of yours was when you made your home speakers. At the time I was just looking for home theater speakers to buy and came across your article and haven’t stopped perusal since. The thing is I’m not a car audio guy at all lol I’m a “audiophile” home theater person but I always enjoy your articles.
I’ve done fiberglass pods, complete fiberglass door panels, just screwing a driver into the factory location and mounting the driver to a baffle in the stock door location and out of those 4 methods, my opinion is (for SQ) the best was/is mounting the speaker on a solid, flat baffle thats anchored to the door with nuts and bolts. (no sheet metal screws) CLD (50% coverage) on inner and outer doorskins and that’s about it. FAR better midbass than the other ways I mentioned. The drivers MUST be mounted to something SOLID is my point, if you want good midbass. The quality of the install is more important than the quality of the gear in my book. I embarass dudes with super expensive systems with relatively cheap stuff in my car. FUN!
There’s no way I’ll get this level of system but once I get another vehicle I’m throwing my subs in it. Was getting ready to drop it in my aspen but once I took it to the mechanic he said Michigan finally rusted to much of it out to be able to fix the problems. So I’m only on my bike now I’d put speakers on it I just don’t wanna be that guy at a light playing DMX or something I can at least do windows up and keep the words away I’m not worried about the bumping some of the stuff that crazy fool says kids shouldn’t be hearing. I may go new and just rid the ones I have for once maybe American bass, or and I know it sounds crazy alibaba for some no name stuff seen a couple yt articles on it made me think twice about going through them for car audio. I’m 39 ion care if it’s name brand as good as the amps I seen was preforming in quite sure the subs will work great as well. Wish some audio you tubers would do more articles on some of the equipment because I think it would be worth it.
Yeah those midrangers will definitely improve the timbre of your truck and I see it as perfect arrangement, the 8″ and 6″ play a lot of frequencies without the add phase shift of band-pass eq’s. Summed up the are like the trumpets of an mighty army which you man is the very knight! Rise! Break the windows shatter the hearing just put in max volume omg