Post holes are crucial for creating the foundation of a deck, and they should be as strong as the house itself. The UK Building Regulations outline safety and performance standards for external steps, with approved documents M and K covering these rules. Guarding should be at least 1100mm high, not easily climbable by children, and not allow a 100mm diameter sphere to pass through.
External stair design should start by determining the classification of stairs as accessible, common, or private. A common stairway may be required. If building or replacing stairs on the exterior of your home, you may need a permit. As the homeowner, you are responsible for obtaining all required permits.
External staircases can be both decorative and practical additions to your home, providing easy access to your garden from the upper floor or creating a focal point. A landing at the bottom of the stairs is required, at least the width of the stairs and 36″ deep in the direction of travel.
Post hole digging is essential for fence installation, as it ensures alignment, stability, and proper post placement. To properly dig post holes, inspect the footing and cement before setting your posts. Landscape fabric should be placed at the bottom of the stairs, and post holes should be inspected before setting your posts.
In summary, post hole digging is a vital part of fence installation, and proper post hole digging ensures that your fence stands straight and aligned.
📹 How to Set a Post for a Fence or Deck
Setting a post is the foundational step for many projects, including building a fence or a deck. Learn how to dig post holes and set …
Do exterior stairs need footings?
Stairways require a footing at the bottom to support the stringers, which must be sized to support the load on the stairs, as quantified by the International Residential code. The footings should be 12 inches deep for freestanding decks and 12 inches deep for decks connected to the house via a ledger. The stair footing must be set to the frost depth or deeper for the area, while the deck must be 12 inches deep for freestanding decks.
The IRc does not provide prescriptive designs for footings at stairways, but the Design for code Acceptance (DcA) 6 Prescriptive Residential Wood Deck construction Guide provides a solution, showing 4×4 guardrail posts alongside the stringers.
These posts bear on top of concrete footings placed at either frost depth or the 12-inch minimum depth, whichever is deeper. Jack studs are fastened beneath the bottom of the stringer to transfer the stringer load to the footing.
How deep do outdoor steps need to be?
The minimum depth for stairway treads is 10 inches, with a nosing of 3/4 inch and a maximum depth of 1-1/4 inch. For tread depths of 11 inches or greater, a nosing is not required. The vertical rise of a flight of stairs is limited to a maximum of 12 feet.
What are the building regulations for external steps in the UK?
The UK Building Regulations outline guidelines for building and renovating outdoor steps and stairs. The standard outdoor step height in the UK is 150-170mm, and the standard outdoor step going is 280-425mm. Outdoor step landings are also a requirement. The regulations cover the construction and renovation of steps for domestic and public spaces. These guidelines are aimed at ensuring safety and performance standards.
The regulations also outline the dimensions of external steps for basic safety and a baseline level of accessibility when step-free access is not possible. If you need to make changes to a building’s external structure and accessibility, these regulations can help you get the job done.
Do you need footings for steps?
Freestanding steps can be built on a flat base alongside an existing garden wall, supported by brick-built low walls that form risers. These walls are filled with hardcore and can be centered on concrete footing strips for up to five steps or a concrete pad for a longer flight. Brick risers can be built up from ground level or laid on compacted hardcore before laying the slab. Brick steps parallel to a brick wall should correspond to the bricks in the existing wall, and the risers must be anchored to the wall for security.
To create free-standing steps next to a brick wall, build them with brick and concrete and anchor them to the wall. Logs can be used to support a single step on a gentle slope or arrange them at intervals on a long incline. To anchor the steps safely, “tooth in” the adjoining brick in every third course of the low walls that support them to the brickwork of the existing wall.
Do brick steps need a footing?
Masonry steps in northeast environments require a solid concrete footing below frost line, with a foundation made from concrete blocks. The body of the steps can be built off the block foundation, with bricks or stone vaneer used for the inner body. The concrete block is faced with culture or natural stone vaneer, adhered to with mortar. Bricks are laid in front of the blocks to create an outer shell.
Risers are usually topped with 2″ thick limestone or bluestone treads. Limestone is cheaper and gray, while bluestone is blue and more expensive, stronger and harder. Both limestone and bluestone are natural stone products.
What should I use for outdoor steps?
Concrete stairs are a durable and cost-effective option for outdoor stairs, offering strength and low maintenance. Wood stairs, like cedar, redwood, or pressure-treated lumber, provide a warm, natural look but require regular treatment to resist rot, pests, and weather damage. Composite materials, made from wood fibers and plastics, offer the look of wood without the same level of upkeep. Although more expensive initially, they save on long-term maintenance costs.
Metal stairs, fabricated from aluminum or galvanized steel, offer a modern, sleek appearance and excellent weather resistance, making them suitable for contemporary designs and coastal areas. However, metal can be slippery when wet, so safety considerations are necessary.
Do exterior steps require a landing?
In accordance with the regulations pertaining to outdoor stairwells, a floor or landing is mandatory at both the top and bottom of each stairway. Furthermore, the width of the landing must be a minimum of the width of the stairway in question. It is imperative that exterior composite decking utilized for stair landings adhere to the stipulations outlined in section R507. 2. 2 Furthermore, outdoor stair guardrails are required to comply with the general requirements set forth in IRC Section R312. 1. Guardrails.
Do concrete steps need a foundation?
Ian, a common question about installing footings under steps is that they are a foundation made of concrete and rebar that spreads vertical loads from the steps. They must be installed below the frost depth, which is the maximum depth the ground will freeze in any particular area. In the Twin Cities metro area, frost depth is 3 1/2 feet. Footings prevent the set of steps from settling or moving, ensuring that the steps are poured exactly where they are poured. This is important when steps are attached to any structure built on a footing/foundation.
In case of entry steps, it is important to avoid steps moving relative to the house, as sinking could cause a large step down from the house, pulling away could create a gap between the steps and house, and prematurely causing the steps to degrade. Most code ordinances require footings, but many contractors did not install them to save on costs.
On the other hand, lawn steps do not need footings because they are not attached to anything else with footings. If a set of lawn steps moves due to frost heave or other reasons, the consequences do not justify the cost of installing footings. Overall, LCM recommends installing footings for entry steps and most cities, but some contractors may violate code and install steps without footings.
How deep should footings be for steps?
It is imperative that footings be a minimum of 42 inches in depth. Additionally, landings must be a minimum of 36 inches from the house in proximity to the initial step. The type of footing may be block, concrete wall, or post footing.
How do you secure outdoor steps?
To ensure stability, it is recommended to drill 1/2″ holes on each side and insert a 24″ rebar into the holes to prevent lateral movement.
How do you waterproof external steps?
To waterproof concrete steps, apply two coats of mastic asphalt to stringers, risers, and treads, and apply angle filler in vertical and horizontal parts for a water-tight finish. Solar reflective paint is recommended to prolong the lifespan of the waterproofing membrane, as UV rays can break down the membrane over time. Without it, the sun may draw bitumen out faster, potentially causing slumping in summer months. Additionally, asphalt without solar reflective paint may lose color in intense sunlight.
Mastic asphalt is an excellent waterproofing material, used for roofs, steps, balconies, and basements, providing a seamless waterproof layer that can last over 20 years. It has been used as an effective waterproofing membrane for over a century.
📹 Best Digging Tool For Fence Posts? Sweet hack or or trashy scam?
Is this the invention we’ve been waiting for? Something to make our fence installation a snap? Or the biggest piece of trash to …
if you have to dig no matter what I never get why people set with a method that is going to rot. Just fill the whole thing with concrete – 3rd option – and use a bracket. Even if it rots (much longer than any of the other options) or breaks, it’s a matter of just replacing the post in like 5 minutes. Try replacing the post on the other 2 options.
I live up north in sub zero temps and our freeze line is about 3.5 feet deep. I use the cardboard tubing (cut 4 feet, insert in hole and fill with cement) to place my posts. Why ? Because doing it like Mr. Lowe above seems to lift the cement base a few inches every darn Spring so that after 10 years a few of my old fence posts were almost a foot higher than the others. Replaced those with the cardboard tubing method….haven’t risen an inch after 5 years.
I demoed a deck recently that was build using method 3 on here. With the anchors. I have demoed many decks before in my business, but the 22 year old deck was rotted from decking to joists, but underneath the joists I found the beams (2x10s) and 4×4 posts all in perfect shape with no rot. The posts had never come in contact with ground and all that wood was still reusable after 22 years.. tennessee is wet and humid where I live so decking is a constant replacement, but i will be using method 3 from now on for low load bearing decks.
30 years ago I built my first deck, my father in law helped me. We dug our holes 3 feet deep with post hole diggers, poured 6 inches of concrete in the bottom of the holes and waited 48 hrs! then we put the 4x4s in the hole on top of the crete and filled the rest of the hole with gravel (57s to be exact)… The deck is still standing it gets used everyday, the posts are not rotted.. We have replaced the railing over the years but,only by choice cause mom wanted it changed!! lol….I have since built a bunch of decks in the same way, to my knowledge all of them are doing fine today!!! Dont buy into this crap.. it takes a 4×4 a lifetime to rot!!!
The cattle ranchers doing posts will always know better than city deck builders. I have several MILES of fence with all wooden posts, and mine is a smaller operation. No rancher has time or money for concrete, and the posts need to stand up to wind, snow etc. plus 1200 – 1800 pound cattle rubbing up against them all summer. Remember a good fence needs three qualities: 1) horse high, 2) dog tight, 3) Bull tough. You can do a great job without concrete and have it last many years. Mine are doing great and were installed new in 1994. I expect them to outlast me. Carry on!
The article says “fence post holes ONLY need to be about one third to one half of the height of the post above ground, and three times the width of the post wide”. Does that mean that if my fence posts are 4″x4″ and 6 ft above ground, then the hole needs to be 1′ x 1′ and 3 ft deep in the most conservative scenario?
I’ve been do some research since I need to replace my backyard fence that a contractor installed wrong. I’m going with galvanized poles 9 like you use for chain link fencing, since that will eliminate the rotting wood Issues. . Question though, should I use concrete, or this quick setting foam stuff. Las Vegas heat, no water minus when it rains.
The comments are as interesting as the articles. I’m convinced the best method depends on what the environment is where you are planting the posts. There are probably big differences between how long the posts last when comparing arid ranchland to irrigated landscaped urban areas even in the same climate. I’ve had fence posts rot through in 15 years at ground level where they were in contact with the soil, the parts of the posts below that, embedded in concrete were still solid. The family farm 30km away had 50y.o. had fence posts that were as solid as the day the were installed…if a lot more weather beaten and sun bleached. Winters would go down to -30C so I assume it was the accumulated effects of decades of frost that moved the posts out of plumb. JohnVossler250’s contribution below is brilliant btw!
Suppose you wanted to make a single free standing post on a concrete pier to make an umbrella inspired trellis (exaggerating to get the point across). I would expect the post needs to be encased in the concrete to achieve sufficient support (cantilever) as using a metal fixture would place any wind loads into the fasteners. Is this assumption correct?
Buy a bucket of roofing tar. Seal the part of your post that will be in the ground and about 3 inches higher than the the ground level. Just worked on an old man’s house who did that in 1989 and his post are still good. He does paint his deck regularly and has replaced some decking boards, but the deck is still safe and solid overall.
I do mine with pvc jackets rebar at the bottom so moisture can never get to the wood and a cap at the top. Got post on my property over 20 years old … the way this guy is doin it you might get 10 years lol even with pressure treated expecting my builds to last over 50 plus years easy with or without pressure treated wood I still use pressure treated humidity is always a factor
The post rots under ground because it doesn’t drain but that is why they show the gravel base. The ground still holds water though. It’s OK for temporary docks to have wood posts under ground but a permanent deck post should be above ground. There are steel spikes that can go on the bottom end of your post to stick into the ground and another kind that screws in. For docks I use PT and spike the end with a skill saw then waterjet them in with a garden hose.
Electric post hole diggers can be had for a couple of hundred bucks and they come with two sizes of augers–a 3″ and a 6″! They come with long handles to apply the torque necessary to get the job done. Of course, for remote work where electricity is out of reach, gas-powered post hole diggers can be used although their prices are a lot more.
I bought one longer and about 4 times as wide. Cost about $10 and it works great. It doesn’t remove the soil for you, well it does remove a good bit at first, i’ll take it. But it loosens the dirt so you only have to extract it, If not too rocky the post hole digger pulls the loose soil right out. Works almost as good as renting those big powered auger devices from Home Depot. Saves you the money, and the time, and fits easily in your truck ready to go. This guy probably knows stuff I don’t, but he didn’t even try. DIgging into dry dirt works best, wet just sticks to the blade and the digger. Rocks- hate em. no idea how to break thru them. Anyone? Oh, and I use the hammer setting when I want to widen or just break up dirt, non hammer to dig deep. Also just wedge it against the side in a bind to widen or redirect the hole, like you do if your drill bit is just a shy too small when your drilling through thin wood. Wobble it. Have fun.
I have one of those. I bought it at Home Depot in their garden dept. It is to dig holes for plants, but you are right, it digs post holes good too. I’ll give you a tip: Dig post holes when the ground is wet & soft. We have wet winters here in California so thats when we dig. This December I need to dig 8 post holes. !
I have a drill auger (sold by Sutton Tools here in Australia) for building retaining walls. 6″ (150mm) diameter, 18″ (450mm) depth, 7/16″ hex chuck. With a decent drill (Milwaukee m18 fuel) it is a HUGE timesaver. Can get a dozen holes to full depth on 1 battery. In rocky ground I require a fencing bar in conjunction (drill, dislodge, repeat – maybe 3 or 4 times per hole). Can buy a 300mm extension as well (I just finish the hole with the bar and shovel if I need to go any deeper). Quality product! – this one looks cheap and nasty!!!
Depend really. For a simple homeowner, the 3″x24″ auger bit can help starting the hole. Then you go at the side and bottom with a shopvac. If it’s hard clay, go at it with a pressure washer, then shopvac all the muddy mess. Nasty business but it work way faster than manual Post Hole Diggers. But of course, if you are a pro, it’s all nonsense. You need real tools.
I use mine around the garden and for setting temporary electric fence posts. Ive even used it with the extension to drill out an 8″ fence post hole on the side of a hill where my auger wasnt sane or practical to use. Ive also used it with a diy 8′ extension to drill a hole under a slab to run pvc under it. But i wouldnt even consider it even if it had been my only tool for like when i had to put up 200 posts around one of my pastures. It, like all tools, have their purpose, and can be used to do some jobs ok they wernt best fitted to, but not the best idea to do.
If your serious about holes a tractor mounted hydraulic auger is the go. I have one of these drill augers to try to dig holes for plants. You don’t know my soil – it is rock hard. I try to dig 4 holes per planting so that I can go to shovel depth. Sometimes I cannot even get the auger to depth with my drill auger and have to fill what pilot holes I make with water to soften it up overnight. For star pickets my investment in a very hefty jackhammer with a star picket bit was the only viable choice. If you have luscious loamy soil you’ll have no idea what I’m talking about.
Buy Harbor Freight hole auger and buy the better auger bit. I have worked mine to death and it keeps ongoing. I also have bought a 3″ auger from a farm supply. So now I have 3″ 6″ and 8″ auger bits. The auger is a beast from harbor freight. I tried using in soil that was unknown to me to be river rock. I sheared the pin that attaches the bit to the hole auger. Then rented a skid steer and auger to find out I should have rented the skid steer with a backhoe instead. The river bed is very difficult ground to deal with. The skid steer constantly jammed up on the rocks and the holes ended up being more like pits. I persisted and got the job complete.